Body Paint brand and related questions

[Jocigar]

I am getting ahead of myself, but maybe not if I paint behind quarters before permanently installing them.  Is that common practice or just spray what you can reach after car is finished ?

Eventually doing base clear FK5.  What can you tell me on the paint brand: PPG, deltron, shopline, I have used omni which i was told is also ppg.   

Do you keep with same brand or at least manufacturer all the way ? epoxy, sandable primer, paint.

Do you clear the inside of car after painting floorboards or is base good enough in that area?   It would save on clear not sure if that is a big deal considering how much $$ goes into restoring anyway.

thanks

[Marty]

I've never painted quarters before installing. I'd think the paint would get damaged from the constant fitting and welding. I guess Graveyard Cars does it, but they have the budget, I don't.

The high-end paint (PPG) compared to the budget (OMNI/Shopline.) that you have mentioned is the tint difference and coverage. The better the paint the better the coverage with OEM matching. The budget bases could need more material to cover and close to OEM matching. More if you want the metallics to lay down properly. Blending is difficult with the lower-priced base too. It's to be considered for any future paint repair or re-work.

I've mixed and matched primers, clears, and bases with no issues at all. Ever. Avoid Lacquer primers though.

The base needs to be cleared or it will eventually fail. I personally don't paint the inside or the bottoms of cars unless it's specified and there is a budget. I think it's a waste of expensive material. Epoxy primer? Yes. BCCC? No. That's JMHO on that subject.

[moparroy]

I guess I would start with .. it depends. Are you going for a true factory restoration? or what you like? I did kind of in between - though probably more what I like really.
As far as factory restoration goes one reference I used was Mopar Connection's series on the "Comeback Cuda" - a 1970 hemi cuda. Just google Comeback Cuda and you'll find it. Really nice series but paint was one of the parts I looked at most. You'll see factory is "dip primer" under side with only color overspray and interior same. They painted trunk after assembly - and sounds like that was factory practice also.
I did paint mine inside, under and even inside the quarters just before welding. So all my fitting was done first but for sure the welding will mess up those spots - actually I sanded it away on the seams and on the plug weld spots so that it would not cause welding issues. I just like it all sealed and painted - I think it looks nice and there are many other things on the car I am not doing factory either.
As Marty says - if you put down a base coat that is meant to be cleared you must clear coat it within 24 hours.
I used PPG Omni for the stuff I painted myself - inside and underside. Omni is the only line I could get the '74 JY9 color in - well one guy showed me a Valspar  JY9 base but the color was way off. I believe BASF may have it as well from one guy I talked to.
I used all PPG primers only cause I have a connection - conventional wisdom says stick with one line but I hear others mix it too. As a rooky I stuck with PPG figured minimize my risks.
I sent the car out for final fit and finish. The fellow who did the final paint used other primers - not even sure what - and the final base coat is a Sikkens water borne base. Not sure what clear he used. He works for a high end local shop and did it on the side - it looks great. The Sikkens base is a custom blend - blended to match the Omni base color spray outs.
I talked to several shops about painting the car - no one was willing to paint with Omni (bad vibs on it around here) but its the only solvent based PPG available in Canada due to VOC regs. And PPG did not offer the color in anything else either. I was thrilled when the Sikkens blend became an option. I was starting to regret deciding to stay with the original color up till then.

[EDL94]

I used the cheaper omni single stage to paint the underside, inside the trunk, interior, and engine bay. Then PPG base / clear on the exterior. The color difference is so small you cannot tell. it turned out great.

[Headjam]

PPG for my FC7 Challenger. 

[torredcuda]

I did all my floors, engine bay, door jambs, trunk and underneath with single stage PPG Concept as it saves some money and saves some time/labor over base/clear, PPG base/clear on the exterior. I have used many different brands of primers and paints together with no issues but I stay away from the cheaper stuff, as said poor coverage and harder to get a good match with the cheaper brands.

[Jocigar]

Thanks all, good advise and tips     didn't think of using single stage as mentioned in those areas.   

I may not paint area hidden behind quarter, but that brings up another question.. before installing the qtr sheetmetal would you epoxy the inside of the skin itself or just scuff the AMD black primer.  I guess a coat of epoxy cant hurt.

Curious, do we stick with deltron because they have the original paint code or because its a high end paint ?   burnt orange has made a comeback, and many modern cars look identical to FK5.     I've seen it on cars from hyundai to range rover and some look really close.   

one more, can you paint over epoxy without scuffing in hidden or hard to reach places ?  if yes, is there a time limit to do so. 

thanks ! 

[Mrbill426]

This is what went on our Cuda... it is a single stage; EW1... so far so good.  The primer was DP50 PPG

[moparroy]

Someone might even say that single stage is closer to the original - which I think was enamel on these cars (not sure) - but I like the look of a nice clear coat finish.

My understanding is Deltron is a much better paint than Omni - it is solvent based so easier to work with. No longer sold in Canada though as its not VOC compliant here. The better shops I talked to use water borne base now - but you need a proper paint booth for sure and even a special type I think cause it takes a lot longer between coats and before clear. I think my car was in the booth all weekend.

I would epoxy the inside of panels over the e-primer - just in case there are any small scratches - best to be well sealed.

Yes there is a time limit to go over epoxy - some variation in that limit. Attached tech sheet for the epoxy base I used says max 4 days - I have seen as long as 7. But yes once that epoxy hardens adhesion is not so good.