cut and buff help

[GoMangoBoys]

I am ready to start the cut and buff on the challenger clear coat.  I have never done this before.  Please confirm that I am going to do the right thing here.
1.  Sand with 1500 grit
2.  Sand with 2000 grit
3.  Cut with mop like pad on the DA sander
3. Polish with foam pad on the DA sander.
I will use the polishing compound that the paint store sold me to go with both of those 2 pads listed above.
I will tape over outside corners to keep from burning the paint off there.
Any other tips would be appreciated.

[torredcuda]

Many different ways of doing this, everyone has thier own system but here`s my  Start with 1000 grit or maybe even hit any dirt or small problem spots with 600 first. after 1000 got to 1500 after that I start buffing but others go 2000 even down to 3000 grit. First pass is wool pad and medium compound, second buff is finer compound with foam pad and final is a polish or glaze, again numerous options for products. What product(s) did the shop give you? You also need an orbital buffer not a DA (dual action )  for buffing, the final polish or wax can be done with an orbital though.

[torredcuda]

Taping edges is always a good idea and when using an orbital buffer always make sure the pad is spinning off the edge not onto it, also wash between products.

[chris NOS]

IMHO , that 's a whole process that needs serious skill to do it nice and not "burning" , (going thru) the paint , i would strongly recommand you to find some guys with experience in buffing to do it with you ,it worth it , maybe a 300, 400 usd to spend for one day or more to do few panels with you, the complet process together  , you can after do by yourself  the rest of the car ...because , i can tell you , if you do it wrong , you ll need to repaint the car ....
my 2cents

[JS29]

I don't believe meany bodyshops would want to buff out someone else's fresh paint job.  Garden hose, Bucket of worm water with a few drops of soap. 1200,2000,3000.  Work in small area's. Use the small rubber squeegee and don't go to far down. Wool pad, compound, glaze with foam pad. good luck.     

[usraptor]

Plenty of videos on You-tube.  I'd definitely watch those first before attempting.  The key is to work small areas, 12X12 and be patient.

[Marty]

My take.

Suggestions. Take them for what they're worth to you.

Soak the sandpaper for an hour or so to soften the edges of the paper. They can scratch your surface.

If you use a squirt bottle to apply your water. Skip the soap. It'll only make the sandpaper hydroplane. I mix 20% rubbing alcohol with 80% water. The paper will cut cleaner. If you use a bucket, just use the paper with clean water.

Use a firm block on the first cut to get the surface level, then to a softer one if you prefer. Check out the block that goes by "Holy Terror". It has holes on one side that will also cut the paint nicely. Use the squeegee as mentioned above to track your sanding. Once the defects are removed go to the next grit. If you do have dust nib, scrape them out using a razor blade. Use a fresh one for a clean scrape and don't scratch the surface. Hold in between thumb a forefinger. The sandpaper is too soft to remove it completely. Resand the area and move on. *If you don't feel comfortable with this suggestion.DON'T DO IT.*

When sanding you should always sand the next grit in the opposite direction. This will level the surface further. If you sand always in one direction you could get deep scratches and ruts on the surface.
I use six grits of sandpaper when I cut the clear. Each one in a different direction and I always end up finishing in the direction of the length of the car, never across.

Use a buffer made for buffing. A DA isn't made for buffing. It's not strong enough. Swirl removal yes but not the initial buff. 1500 RPM.

I'd avoid taping the edges when buffing. The buff throughs were made when you sanded too much on the edges and the wool pad finished it off. As suggested above, keep the buffing pad rotating away from the edges. If you tape the edges, you'll see the shine difference in the end product.

I use a three-step buffing process to avoid micro-scratches showing up later after the compound evaporates. Since I don't know what you're using for buffing materials, I won't comment.

I'd wait 30 days at least before cutting and buffing to let the solvents to evaporate and to avoid read through, drawback, mapping, and dulling (Or what you want to call it) much later on.

[Rich G.]

There is a very fine line between perfection and disaster. I'm getting braver each car I do but it's definitely a learning experience and I'm still terrified to go that extra step. Hopefully you have enough clear on the car to work with. One additional tip I found after watching many videos is to draw lines on the area you are going to sand with a magic marker. As you start sanding you'll easily see all the low spots as the magic marker lines disappear. You know to stop when all the lines you drew on are gone. And then repeat the process with the next grit paper. And stay away from the edges .

[JS29]

The longer you wait the harder the clear will get, I like to wetsand asap and hold off on the buffing. plus if something happens while your assembling the car you may have to do it again. I have a finishing D-A from Snap-On and use reverse Velcro sandpaper all the way down to 5000 grit. You could hand polish the surface the way I do it. But for a once in a while painter it would be cost prohibitive.   

[Wayne]

Lots of good tips here.  I would just highly suggest going to 3000 while wet sanding.  Anything less will make the buffing process longer and more difficult than it needs to be. 

I have used 3m Trizact 3000 paper for the final wetsanding with great results.

[docmel]

There typically 3, not two buffer pads that are used, one typically being a woool pad.  Also, any grit rougher than typically 3000 grit at the end will not polish out like you want.

You really need to get one kit, or at least the same brand products.  Dont mix and match, guess, etc.   3M has been in the biz for years, and they have a great selection, and there are many u tube videos.

Ill be honest, 3m is expensive.   But it comes in qt bottles and will last you forever.  Its great for touching up dust scatches  that come along over the years, or finessesing a new paint job

[torredcuda]

3M, Mothers, Meguirs all quality products. For a rookie I would tape edges at least on the first buffing stage, you can then carefully touch up the edges once the rest of the car is done.