Main Menu

Primer color

Started by nsmall, May 13, 2017, 08:50:15 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

nsmall

I know, I know....I overthink everything.  Finally got the car media blasted. :ohyeah:

My car will be in primer soon.  I'm having it painted toxic orange....basically it's a burnt orange...has pearl in it.

My question is should I get a orange color primer as I plan to drive my car, and I'm thinking it would look less obvious when I get chips in the paint vs a grey primer?  I DONT WANT TO REPAINT THIS CAR.  I plan to drive it and I'm trying to think long term.

Thanks

Here is my car as of yesterday...

The last 2 pics are my main areas of obvious rust.  Should I order panels?  I was thinking AMD.  Dave, you sell these?

@MoparDave

Cuda Cody

Those are easy patch panels to fix and that does need to be fixed now.  Looks like someone already tried to fix it in the past with a poor rivet job.  Weld in new patch panels and it will be done right.  If water gets behind your paint that is when it will fail.  Butt weld those new patches in.

As for primer, PPG DP74 Epoxy (Red).

nsmall

@Cuda Cody   

Sorry for asking...So buy some lower panels?  Probably need 2, one for each side?

Is that primer easy to find and priced similiar to grey?

Thanks buddy.

Neil


Cuda Cody

Have your body guy look at it first before you buy anything.  Some guys might just prefer to make the patch from scratch by hand and others will want a small patch panel.  Either way, make sure the guy doing the work is consulted before buying any panels.  I think they make those lower panels patched that you can just have your guy butt weld in place.  Even with a patch panel, he'll just cut them small lower section to use since it doesn't need a large patch.

http://www.autometaldirect.com/-c-23_145_350.html

The DP Epoxy should all be about the same price regardless of color.  I just prefer to use a stock factory red epoxy under orange pant.  But I like to use a white sealer before I paint orange so it gives the orange a bright clean look.



Quote from: nsmall on May 13, 2017, 09:34:39 PM
@Cuda Cody   

Sorry for asking...So buy some lower panels?  Probably need 2, one for each side?

Is that primer easy to find and priced similiar to grey?

Thanks buddy.

Neil

MoparDave

Quote from: nsmall on May 13, 2017, 08:50:15 PM

  Should I order panels?  I was thinking AMD.  Dave, you sell these?

@MoparDave

I would order skins, that way your body man can use what he wants and preserve as much of the OE quarter. really doesn't look bad at all.

DP series epoxy is pretty much they best PPG out. sickens makes a good primer. I am sure others do also. I've been told that the black epoxy has a higher zinc % then the red or gray. but as Cody mentioned your sealer will influence your base coat if its the wrong color.
Please Email me at daver@manciniracing.com or call 586-790-4100

nsmall

@Cuda Cody

PPG DP74 $440 a gallon. I can get some paint named PCL for $200 a gallon.  It's supposed to be the equivalent.

As for paint toxic orange a 2010 and 2011 dodge color.  $1400 a gallon with reducer and 2 gallons of clear paint brand name is matrix it's urethane vs PPG which is water based.  I didn't get a quote for PPG toxic orange.

Is PCL epoxy primer any good?

How about matrix?

I know it sounds like I'm always trying to cut corners but I'm not rich.

Thanks

Cuda Cody

"It's supposed to be the equivalent."   :haha:  If I had a dollar for every time I heard that I could paint cars for free.  I've used Matrix and other paints that say they are the same or better.  Awhile back a local paint company told me the story about how Matrix was started by the two guys that were working for and running PPG.  They supposedly took the PPG paint codes and now buy the same toner / pigments and give you the same paint at a cheaper price.  So I called him out on his "claim".  Told him to mix me up the same color in both PPG and Matrix.... I waited and watched to make sure he used the correct toners.  I paid for both pints of paint out of my pocket.  Then I got in the booth and did a spray out of both colors... out of the same gun... on to the same test / primer metal.  And let me tell you, there was a HUGE difference in the paint.  I'm a PPG guy now all the way.  No more short cuts.  I have stopped listening to the sales pitch of the "It's the same paint" or "they all use the same toners".

But that doesn't mean they are not good paints, it just means I didn't like them compared to the better brands.  The color was off and the coverage wasn't as good. 

So if you ask me, I use:

~PPG DP Epoxy
~PPG Sealers
~PPG Base Coat DBC
~PPG Clear 2021

It's not cheap, but doing a quality paint job isn't.  But if PPG is not for you, just make sure you have your painted do a test spray out of the color before you buy it.  Never buy a gallon of paint without doing a test spray out first.  You better know you love that shade they are going to mix before you buy thousands of dollars of it.  And not ever brand makes the same shade even if you tell them you want a factory color.

Now if you want to save some money on Epoxy Primer, PPG makes a industrial version that is used on boats that are near sea salt.  It bullet proof and less money, but it has lead in it.

There's my  :alan2cents:  Hope it helps.


Quote from: nsmall on May 15, 2017, 04:30:53 PM
@Cuda Cody

PPG DP74 $440 a gallon. I can get some paint named PCL for $200 a gallon.  It's supposed to be the equivalent.

As for paint toxic orange a 2010 and 2011 dodge color.  $1400 a gallon with reducer and 2 gallons of clear paint brand name is matrix it's urethane vs PPG which is water based.  I didn't get a quote for PPG toxic orange.

Is PCL epoxy primer any good?

How about matrix?

I know it sounds like I'm always trying to cut corners but I'm not rich.

Thanks


nsmall

Talk about service.  Dang that was one heck of an answer.  I'll take that all into consideration.  My painter is giving me a quote tomorrow for the body work.  I don't think he's done the research on paint though.  I think toxic orange is going to be a 3 stage paint.  Not sure what that means, probably more $$$.

I'll tell him about the DP74 ppg epoxy red primer.

I'll also talk to him about the white sealer you mentioned before.

I will request paint samples too.  The painter already mentioned that to me.

Im fearful of the total paint costs, but like most of this resto, multiply by 2 and that's what I end up spending.

Is base coat DBC the actual paint color?

How many gallons of primer do I need?  Not sure if that's possible to answer.  The car was media blasted and the whole entire car will be put in primer.

How many gallons of paint will I need?  The interior will NOT be painted body color NOR will the underside of the car.  But the engine bay and trunk and jams and entire car obviously will be painted body color.

:thankyou:

Neil

Cuda Cody

#8
DBC is the line of the PPG product.  It's the base (color) portion of your paint job.  The clear goes over it to create a long lasting paint job.  Here's the spec sheet:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdbcp.pdf

It's mixed at 1 to 1.  So if you have 1 gallon of paint, you mix it with 1 gallon of thinner and you get 2 gallons of spray-able product.

The clear I use is 2021:

http://www.automotivepaintandequipment.com/pdf/deltron/topcoats/P-199_DCU2021pic.pdf

I've heard good things about 2002 too, but have not worked with it much.  They both have a super high solid rating (around 41.5% to 42%).
http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileId=AA241B4C-80B5-4800-9AFC-149F18BFE2D2

The DP Epoxy spec sheet is here.
http://www.custom-aerosol.com/pdf/ppg-dplf-epoxy-primer-product-sheet.pdf


The prices that were quoted to you seem a bit high.  Your painter should get at least jobber pricing so ask him to see what he can get it for. 

Shane Kelley

Like Cody said. Don't cut corners on paint and materials. Yes it's higher than hell and a tough pill to swallow. But the last thing you want is something failing after your car is all done. Then everything you did or paid for is for nothing. Think of it like building a house. It's only as good as the foundation. Also be sure compressed air is filtered really good. Even on the primer. Moisture in the air supply will come back to bit you down the road. You won't know it's a problem while your spraying it on but with time tiny clusters of little bubbles will start to appear.
I used 2 1/2 gallons of base and 3 gallons of clear on my Cuda. Jambs and little parts here and there painted separately really eat the materials. I can't even remember how much primer, poly surfacer and filler I went through.

JS29

Ya the tree hugging freaks are helping to kill us body shops!!!!! :barf: Us evil, polluting, global warming contributing automotive re-finishers. And let us not forget the company's that produce the product.  :bigmoney:     


nsmall

Lots of tree huggers here.  Lots of laws in California.  My painter quoted me $13,000 for primer, paint and body work.  He will install the glass and trim, I have to put everything else back together.  I ordered the only panel he needs today so thats nice I dont have a bunch of panel replacement.

I made it clear I didnt want cheap paint.  He said he buys paint in Los Angeles which is 60 miles south of me.  I will be sure to watch this part of the process carefully as I dont want regrets, I want a paint job that will look good way down the road.  I dont want to repaint this car.

Thanks for everything guys.  Trying to not cut corners, just gets hard sometimes as every turn costs me double what I imagine.

Neil

nsmall

PPG Toxic Orange paint, 1 gallon...only $1300   :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Somehow my painter is getting it connected to urethane vs water.  Hes buying it.  Part of the deal.  I think I am ripping him off now.

Cuda Cody

$13,000 for body and paint seemed cheap to me.  The material and time add up fast.   :yes:  But I'm sure there's still enough there for your guy to make a bit of money.  Can't wait to see your car painted!!!!   :popcorn:

MoparDave

Quote from: nsmall on May 16, 2017, 03:27:44 PM
just gets hard sometimes as every turn costs me double what I imagine.


welcome to building an E body.
Please Email me at daver@manciniracing.com or call 586-790-4100