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Side window weatherstrip question

Started by leglhi, August 01, 2018, 12:51:33 PM

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leglhi

I know I'm wearing my welcome out here lol,but i promise to pass on all i learn to the next poor guy doing this.I've seen a thread i came across Googling this but cant find it now.Last night we installed the rest of the trim on the drivers side door so that we could install the window weatherstrip in the top channel.Problem is after fighting it for hours,we finally got it to where it just touches the outside of the weatherstriping.Its like laying against it.My bottom adjustments on the vertical channels are maxed out on the bottom which is where you tilt the top of the glass in.My questions are,am i missing another possible adjustment without elongating the bottom door holes.And is the glass supposed to fit "IN" the weatherstripping or just push against it?Doesn't seem like pushing against it would be a very good seal,but i cant see that thing making it in between the rubber all the time.Thanks everyone.Theres starting to be a bunch of empty boxes so that's a good thing!
If it ain't broke,fix it till it is

Cuda Cody

Yes, the top is also adjustable so you can should be able to get it to work without having to modify the holes.

https://www.e-bodies.org/Resources/Engineering_Illustrations/Window_Regulator_Door_Glass.pdf

Do you have the door panel off and access to everything?  Has the roof ever been replaced? 

Timbbuc2

Thats what this forum is all about, helping each other. I am no help since I have not got to finishing my doors, but I am watching and waiting for responses. Should help me as well.
Get in, I'll drive


anlauto

If you could post a picture of your concern, that my help.
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Burdar

The glass just butts up against the weatherstripping.  If it went up inside, you wouldn't be able to open the door without damaging the window or pulling the weatherstripping out of the channel.

leglhi

Thanks for the patience and understanding guys.I feel bad sometimes asking questions i know have probably been asked/answered many times before,but i always try to research before i post something.Sometimes after a few hours I'm like man i just need the answer today  :whiteflag: So i appreciate the understanding.
And to answer Cody,yeah the inside panel is off and the roof has never been messed with.Some patches but nothing structural.I'll give it another look for adjustments at the top.I have only been using the vertical tracks bottom adjustments up until now.And my buddy was thinking it sat in the strip channel,and i was along the lines of thinking with Burdar that it would just be pressing against the rubber.I even thought that maybe the top trim channel might be able to be loosened and pulled out a bit but that wouldn't give me what i need.Its hard to put this thing back together after 4 years and two moves.My memory is fuzzy haha.And I'll work on getting a pic.
If it ain't broke,fix it till it is

Claudia

Well, first . . . don't worry about wearing out your welcome here . . . if they haven't kicked me out by now, you should be good!  :)  I try to do the same as far as helping out where I can with what I learn.   :console:

Window should just rest against the weatherstripping, not fit in it which you are correct, it does not create a real good seal but it is what it is . . . I do agree that a picture of your concern would aid in validation or putting it to bed.


RUNCHARGER

The top of the window usually can be adjusted so it fits relatively tight against the seal. I usually set the windows so they place a light bit of tension inward against the seal. Actually these things seal better than you think they would for old cars. The window has to be adjusted so it fits evenly all around into the weather seal as well. It takes time but it is satisfying when you get it nice.
Sheldon

usraptor

Don't feel bad. I had the exact same question last year when I did my window molding.  Like everybody has said, the glass just rests against the molding, it doesn't go into the channel.  It's just a matter of adjusting and re-adjusting the window tracks to get it right.  Also, your doors need to be adjusted correctly in both height and gaps so  the window gets a proper seal. Doing the windows was one of the most frustrating parts of my entire restoration and I'm still not 100% happy with the results but they're good enough for now.

Claudia

Here are a couple of pictures that may help / aid . . .

GoodysGotaCuda

Has anyone found that aftermarket drip rail window seals are too thin?

Seems like all of my glass is hard against the adjusters to get it to seal.

In some areas I have added foam behind the seal to help push it against the glass harder. I feel like another 1/8"-3/16" of rubber where the window rides would make a huge difference.


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leglhi

Thanks guys,i appreciate the help.Got the windows to line up pretty damn nice for what it is.Went and bought a roll of the loop side of velcro to re cover the window stabilizers and thats next hopefully.Had to pull off of it for a little bit to work on the house but should be back at it tonight.And yeah i also thought that maybe the drip rail seals could be a little thicker.I have to roll them up pretty tight for them to fit right.Im guessing if it was thicker it may seal up better.I wish the action was a little smoother,kind of feels notchy when i roll the quarters up.My biggest suprise was how the door end seals needed tons of manipulating to fit,and still dont fit as well as factory.Not trying to complain because i guess we are lucky to even have the option of new ones,but crazy that with todays technology they aren't able to duplicate the old ones as well or better.
If it ain't broke,fix it till it is