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Torsion bar cross member repair/replace?

Started by b5cuda, July 20, 2019, 10:26:57 AM

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b5cuda

Found a rotted section in my t-bar cross member, the lower portion of the last five inches on the outer passenger side.  The rest of the cross member is solid.
My fabricating skills are pretty basic, so I'm thinking the best fix is to splice in a new section.  Does that sound right?  Welcome any suggestions - thanks!
 

Brads70

I'd consider changing the whole piece?  Not much harder than replacing a section?
Dave gives us a discount as well....
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/torsion-bar-crossmember-70-74-e-71-74-b/

b5cuda

Thanks Brad!  I was thinking it would be easier to cut out the rusted end and splice in a new section, but I may be wrong.  If I pull the whole cross-member, doesn't it get more complicated in terms of needing the car level and squared up before welding on the new piece?  It's just a shell at this point, no drive train or interior.


RUNCHARGER

Take a pick to the other side and see if you can punch it through.
Sheldon

b5cuda

Both sides of the last 5" on passenger side are rotted, but the rest of the cross member is solid.  I tested the whole cross member with a punch and hammer.

Brads70

How are the floors, inner rockers?  I ask thinking how can the thicker torsion bar crossmember be rotted without the thinner  floors and rockers not having rust issues as well? If not I would think its just a matter of drilling out the spot welds and fitting/welding in the new?

RUNCHARGER

Hmm: Myself I would fab up some pieces and fix it.
Sheldon


b5cuda

The front floor pans on both sides had minor rust pinholes and have been replaced.  Frame rails and rockers look solid.   The last 5" of the torsion bar cross member looked good from the outside but was rotted from the inside, so thin I could tap a punch right through it.  I  found it was packed with dirt. This car sat for over 20 years and rusted in some odd places. 

RUNCHARGER

Sheldon

70 Challenger Lover

Had to repair that area on one of my cars. Either route will take some time and effort to do it right. I chose repair vs replacement mainly because the car needed so much work that I didn't want to break the bank buying metal I didn't absolutely need. These pics show the side that wasn't bad. The other side was worse but still fixable. Obviously you want the torsion bars out but beyond that you should be fine. I used 14 ga. metal sheet to fabricate the new pieces I needed and that seemed to be a touch thicker than original. I even put some non factory extra bracing on the inside to make sure everything was nice and rigid.

It wasn't a bad job. Think it took 2-3 hours each side taking my time. From the outside, you can't see the repairs.

70 Challenger Lover

I saw you are looking for that end section in another post. Might be hard since this is typically where they rust out. I'd just go to your local metal yard and buy a quarter sheet of 14 ga. new metal (it's cheap) and make it. I'm a novice and this area was one of my first welding projects ever so if I can do it, anyone can.

I started by slicing out the bad portions and laying them out for study. Then I use thin cardboard to make the new piece. Last, I unfold the cardboard so it's flat and trace it out on the new sheet giving myself a little extra for final fitting. After it is welded in and all welds smoothed out, I add extra overlapping sections inside for strength before fixing the floor and covering it all up.

Here is a patch I made for a front frame rail to give you an idea. I have no brake machine. All done on a vice with a mallet and it only took 20-30 minutes or so.


b5cuda

That's very helpful, thanks for posting pics!  Hadn't thought about removing floorpan for access, but may need to do that.

70 Challenger Lover

Mine was rusted out so it made the crossmember repair easier and faster.

b5cuda

That's very helpful and gives me some good ideas.  Appreciate everyone's help!

b5cuda

Well it's not pretty (I'm just learning to weld) but the torsion bar cross-member is solid again.   Took your advice, 70 challenger lover - cut out the rusted area, fabricated a replacement section, and grafted it in.  Still some tweaks needed but it's coming together.  Thanks for the input and encouragement!