Crap aftermarket parts!

[torredcuda]

I know it`s not the first and won`t be the last complaint about aftermarket but geeez can`t they get anything right?  I had finally ordered new window whiskers a while back and decided to put them on today, I figured maybe a couple hours to do but three hours later a lot of swearing and a few bandaids I only got the drivers side done and not real happy with it. Outer one didn`t have correct curve at the back but not too big of a deal to correct, the inner one no way would fit over the edge of the door panel. After scraping excess rubber out then beveling panel edge with a blade it still wouldn`t even star to go on, checking the old one yup - not as wide and tapered narrower towards the bottom of the channel. I ended up finding a piece of aluminum the correct thickness and beating the chrome moulding part over it with a rubber mallet, it went on but not staying in place as good as I would like. Having worked in close tolerance manufacturing for 40+ years I know it`s not that hard to fabricate pars like that but I guess when there is no competition they can make garbage and it will sell as there are no options for us. 

[DeathProofCuda]

Just ordered a backup lamp harness from Classic Industries.  Photos on their website looked similar to my original, minus the melted plastic terminal housing.  It even came in a plastic wrapper claiming "Original Quality" and "Original Appearance".  Then I opened up the wrapper and saw that they used a purple insulated wire in place of the original black wire 

[JH27N0B]

The one that got me was with a repro exhaust I was installing on my T/A restoration.  Not long after I got it together and put a few miles on it, I noticed one of the exhaust tips had come loose from the muffler as I hadn't tightened the repro clamp tight enough. I put it back together and started tightening the bolts on the clamp when the clamp snapped like a chicken bone.
The steel it was made of was crap.  I then bought a new clamp at NAPA and clamped the exhaust and it's been fine since, OE correct or not!
When setting the ride height on the car one of the new rear shackles snapped too when tightening.  I ordered another and it was good.
More recently I fubared tying my convertible down to trailer it home from Moparty, when I got home the brake pedal went to the floor as a strap had damaged a front brake hose.  I went to NAPA and ordered a new one.  It cost $35, and was Chinese and didn't look very impressive.  I had two barely used hoses I had removed from my T/A over 20 years earlier when disassembling it for its restoration, so I decided I liked them better than the new China hose, and used a quarter century old hose instead!

[torredcuda]

Chinese metallurgy is crap and the there manufacturing and welding techniques are even worse! I saw first hand a a lot of crap from China and Mexico when companies the shop I worked for sent thier products to be made there for a lot less money, pretty funny when they had to pay us to re-work, re-weld or re-make the parts as they were complete junk! We need to tarriff anything made overseas and sent here so US manufacturing can compete again!

[cuda hunter]

I agree with that!  Tariff their asses.  Make some Americans fabricate for a change. 

[Brads70]

Just bought taillight bezels set for my 70 Challenger from PG classics, went to install them today and a couple holes are so far out of whack it won't fit the body or the aluminum  housings , now I get to return them, they were not cheap either! 
Stock ones fall in..... this is the second time I have bought these  with the same results, first set was from Classic industries.... I assume there is only one place making them? Close but no cigar.....I somehow expected them to fit, for the money they cost!

[JH27N0B]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kf_CfrFHU0M

[anlauto]

Just bought taillight bezels set for my 70 Challenger from PG classics, went to install them today and a couple holes are so far out of whack it won't fit the body or the aluminum  housings , now I get to return them, they were not cheap either! 
Stock ones fall in..... this is the second time I have bought these  with the same results, first set was from Classic industries.... I assume there is only one place making them? Close but no cigar.....I somehow expected them to fit, for the money they cost!

Odd, I've used five or more of these sets and never had an issue ..

[Duodec]

Heater core for A/C '71 Challenger purchased long ago.  One from O'Reilly (Murray brand) and one purchased elsewhere made by Vista Pro in Mexico.  Neither one will properly fit in the A/C housing, they aren't quite 'square' (meaning flat), the cores are smaller than the original but the frame is slightly larger and won't fit the indents in the housing, and the pipes are not parallel where they exit the housing.  If I tried to put the housing halves together with either core installed, something would break or there would be a gap at the seam.

Meh.  Can't even resell them or swap meet them with a good conscience.

[DeathProofCuda]

I bought a replacement rubber boot for my pistol grip shifter years ago.  IIRC, it was supposed to be an authentic Mopar replacement part.  At the time I noticed that the rubber material was much stiffer than my original, but didn't think much of it.  Finally installed it today and the material is so stiff that it throws the shifter out of second and fourth gears. 

[torredcuda]

I bought a replacement rubber boot for my pistol grip shifter years ago.  IIRC, it was supposed to be an authentic Mopar replacement part.  At the time I noticed that the rubber material was much stiffer than my original, but didn't think much of it.  Finally installed it today and the material is so stiff that it throws the shifter out of second and fourth gears. 

https://www.steelerubber.com/gearshift-boot-82-0222-24

[chargerdon]

 Help any experience ? 

Classic Industries sells two different 1972-74 Dodge Challenger reproduction front drivers side fenders.   One with no mfg listed for $349 and states "Mfg in OE-gauge stamped steel and will fit and function as original".  Shipping is about 150 so it would cost me about $500. 

The Second is AMD brand listing for $399 and the description reads exactly the same.  AMD is i guess a trusted brand. 

Neither list on Classic Industries the actual gauge of the steel, but, if you go to AMD website and look up the identical item their price is the same tho shipping is slightly more...AND they list the gauge as 20 gauge.   Now, i know for a fact that the OEM original factory part is an 18 gauge heavier steel.   

Can anyone give me their experience on using either of these ???   

Also, i found another manufacturer called Dynacorn.   They apparently only sell to distributors or maybe body shops.   Their website shows the fender but no price listed and 0 details on their product.   Anyone have any experience with them ?   ps..found a vendor on ebay for it for $700 and free shipping.   Again only vague statements on oe type high quality steel used in mfg.   

[torredcuda]

I believe factory metal was 19 gage which is .042, I have measured solid original panels and that is usually what they measure for the outside skin, inner sections and braces may be thicker.. The problem is years ago they eliminated some of the  gages from being in stock at most metal supply houses and 19 gage was one of them, only 18 and 20 gage are readily available. I recently ordered outer wheelhouses for my road runner and since AMD was out of stock I ended up buying a different brand and they were noticably thinner than factory, luckily I only needed a couple small sections to splice in otherwise I would have sent them back. Everything from AMD has been as good or better than any other aftermarket parts I`ve seen and that is a fair amount as I previously did crash work for a living.

[chargerdon]

torredcuda..   so far my 74 Challenger with damaged drivers side front fender i have the following choices to make.

1) Collision/Restoration shop says my fender is repairable but at a cost of $2800 plus painting.
2) Found a NOS fender in northeastern PA location for $900
4) Found a "rust free good condition original" in Virginia (i live in raleigh, NC about 155 mile drive) and the owner is asking $650 for it but will negotiate with an offer should i drive there to see it.
5) Buy the AMD for $399 plus $150 shipping for total of $550.
6) Found a local original 73 fender in good shape with the exception of rusting at the last 6 inches of the bottom next to door..  He wants $225.  I figure that i could use it and cut the bottom of mine which is rust free and weld it together..or possibly do a flange fit and glue it with fusor automotive glue. 

Decisions decisions...  I would think that if the AMD fender is really good solution then that is the best bargain.   At this point after waiting nearly 3 weeks the "car show insurance" is going to deny my claim because they found an exclusion for golf carts.   So, im going to have to file a claim with my own insurance company and suck up the deductible.   I figure if they ok the repair of my own fender i could repair the car myself and just have it painted if I have a bolt on fender that doesnt need a lot of work.  Im an amateur but have done all of the body work myself when i restored it except for painting.   

Opinions please ?

[torredcuda]

The rust free original would be my first choice but not at $650, maybe $500. Second choice would be the local one for $225 and just weld on the good lower section, I prefer to butt weld rather than create more seams/overlaps. Finding a decent original part is almost always preferred over aftermarket stuff IMO.