First time out for ‘25, AC heater valve leaking

[JH27N0B]

Last night was the first night of a local cruise, so I went out to the garage and got the convertible fired up after hibernating since November.
I left it sitting running in the driveway for a few minutes while I went and locked up the house and garage.  Came back and did a quick look under the hood before closing it and heading to the cruise.  I smelled a little antifreeze and noticed my OE heat shutoff valve for the AC was leaking.  They are Bakelite plastic so I knew it wouldn't last forever.  It was installed around 7 years ago.
The cruise was close, so I drove there anyway where the car left a little pool under it.  I wiped it up before going home so nobody's dog would lap it up!
But now I have a dilemma.  I found NOS ones online for $300+/-.  A aftermarket replacement is under $100 but needs a little modification to install it sounds like.
Not sure which route to go.  Part of me says buy both, install NOS, but when it fails I'll throw in the towel on OE and install the aftermarket. It's always something!
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74643-Heater-Valve/dp/B000C2UVK0/ref=asc_df_B000C2UVK0?

[YellowThumper]

Buy and install the aftermarket for piece of mind going thru this current driving season.
If you find you cannot live with it not being correct, move on and purchase an oem.
If you can look past that, you have now moved on for less $$$.
No guarantee nos will be better than what you already have.

[Katfish]

Where the leak, no way to repair it with some epoxy?

[screamindriver]

I've been through at least 4 NOS valves in the past 20 years..The bakelite cracks or the seals give it up..Most will leak out the top when they go...As you've seen the prices have gone up significantly as with all these parts..As stated just use the "new and improved" part if it doesn't bother you...If it does then there's two options..Buy NOS and start the process all over again or if you don't drive in the winter plug the inlets/outlets on the valve but fill the lines back to the core with fresh antifreeze to keep it in check.. You could do this to the old one if it still looks intact or buy new do the procedure..One and done..
   If you need heat then your doomed to the new one or the vicious cycle of the bakelite part...

[JH27N0B]

Where the leak, no way to repair it with some epoxy?

The plastic cracks and there's really no robust way to fix them.
I found a 3rd option.  There is a near identical valve for later 70s Mopars, but the mechanism on the top is rigged backwards.  If mounted on an E body, it flows hot coolant to the heater core when the dash control is in the off position and visa versa.  I found a listing for one of those priced similar to the cost of the aftermarket steel ones that need a bit of alteration to install.
I rarely ever use heat on my fair weather show and cruise season workhorse.  In fact most seasons I never use the heat, it could be I used it when I had it in MCACN last November, maybe that was what broke it.
So now I'm thinking of buying that one, install it with maybe not connecting the cable, and if I ever need heat, open the hood and manually open the valve.
And perhaps buy an aftermarket one too. When the NOS one eventually fails, call it good and the install the incorrect looking one I have waiting on the shelf.  I could buy both those valves and still spend $100 less than buying one NOS E body NOS valve.

[Headjam]

I installed the Four Seasons valve that you show in your first post. I had several of the Bakelite valves and all of them failed by the body cracking and spilling antifreeze all over the ground ( and inner fender ). No more for me. I'm happy with the Four Seasons part and hooked it up to work but I never move the dash control off of the cold setting. I'm with you, if I ever need heat I'll just pop the hood and open the valve up a bit. It took a bit of engineering to make it fit right. I ended up using a piece of the NOS valve as part of the mounting. You can see the maroon colored piece in the photo.

[EV2RTSE]

It looks like they eventually realized that the bakelite valves were troublesome and very late in 73 started to offer a metal valve instead - 3502723.

https://hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-ac-heater-control-valve-1973-4-e-body-models/

https://bluestarperformance.com/product/a-c-water-valve-3502723-complete-w-bracket-e-body-1973-nos/

https://greatlakesmoparnos.com/shop/model/barracuda-cuda/1973-1974-cuda-challenger-e-body-a-c-heater-control-valve-w-bracket-3502723/

Everco was another aftermarket brand that made a valve for the e-body:
https://hiltopautoparts.com/product/nors-mopar-ac-heater-control-valve-1970-3-e-body-1972-3-b-c-body/

Many years ago I bought a whole a/c setup off of a wrecked 70 318 go-mango Challenger, it had the Everco valve on it, I must have pitched it in the trash. I'm kicking myself now...

[Lunchbox]

Great thread! I have two of the original bakelite NOS ones, looks like the above are better options in the long run.

[EV2RTSE]

Saw an Everco for sale on FB, seems to be priced less than the others out there on the web at the moment
https://www.facebook.com/groups/182476577374025/posts/1035611058727235

[Headjam]

I saw two used Bakelite valves for sale at the Carlisle swap meet. I didn't even ask for a price. Just walked away.