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Front Alignment trick

Started by moonshine_mike, June 24, 2025, 07:42:07 PM

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moonshine_mike

Just saw a video where an mopar individual adjusted the upper control arms for maximum caster possible and then adjusted the camber buy adding washers between the lower ball joint and the backing plate. I never saw this method before and was impressed with the idea.
What do the members think about this method of adding washers? Safe?

Brads70

Common on circle track Mopars. Just make sure you use grade 8 hardened washers.

HP2

I've done this on a few of my cars. It's a functional approach that doesn't sacrifice caster to get camber. Of course using aftermarket A arms eliminates this need as most already have extra caster built in.


moonshine_mike

Thanks for the feedback.
How to you deal with the castle nuts if they run out of threads to use the safety pin? Do you find longer 9/16" bolts witch would be suitable? Or use a different locking anti rotation nut? The bolts I have appear to be too short for the pin placement as the holes would be covered by the castle nut even with as little as .1" washers?

Brads70

Sure longer bolts grade 8 then drill a hole for a cotter pin. Make sure you have clearance and its not hitting when you turn the wheel from lock to lock.

Katfish

Wouldn't it be easier to just get the offset UCA bushings?

Brads70

Quote from: Katfish on June 25, 2025, 06:25:22 PMWouldn't it be easier to just get the offset UCA bushings?
Sure if it gets the caster settings your after. Couple of bolts and some washers might be easier, and easy to return to stock if you ever wanted. Just 2 ways to get the same thing. Adding washers does change the KPI if thats something you desire to try.


moonshine_mike

For one of my Cudas, the offset bushings are not enough. I am targeting +3deg caster and -1deg camber. Although the bushings allow the caster I want, at that caster setting i would have positive camber. So I had to detune the caster down to about +1.2deg just to get me to 0deg camber. So I need more help with camber, which would allow me to reclaim the caster. The washers look like a great solution and still give a good stock, OEM appearance. I did not want to change the upper control arm, which would have solved the issue due to non stock appearance. I will try the washers now that I have learned of this as an option.
Thanks everybody.

PLUM72

AR engineering sells these camber spacers for that specific purpose...

https://arengineering.com/home-page/chassis-parts
-Dave
'72 Challenger
'13 Challenger

HP2

As ARE points out, you need to be conscious of the thickness and its impact on camber angles. This also can impact the through bolt selection, as others have pointed out. I usually look for these through high end hardware providers, look for Rockwell rated units, and then select the thinnest I can find.

gzig5

Quote from: moonshine_mike on June 25, 2025, 05:29:47 PMHow to you deal with the castle nuts if they run out of threads to use the safety pin?
I would ID the slots that the cotter pin needs to go through and then use a file to deepen the groove, within reason of course.  You wouldn't want to go much more than 20% of the available nut height, if that makes sense.  Maybe two or three threads deep?  Beyond that I'd find a different method.


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