Front Drum Brake Dilemma

[moonshine_mike]

I've come to a crossroad and am pondering options.
Virtually completely stock 1970 Plymouth Cuda 383 started vibrating the steering wheel when braking at high speeds. Thought the front drums were out of round. Took them to a shop to round out. Shop said "no can do" as one is below spec and the other will be below spec when rounded. Shop cannot find replacement with an integrated hub not to mention LH studs in one side. I told them to stop as I consider the future path.
So I face some options.
1) Try to find new ones as a complete set. Likely cost a ridiculous price if I can find.
2) Continue to run these which I don't really want to because of vibration.
3) Purchase the new drums without the hub and try to attach the hubs to the new drums. (shop told me they would always be separate and "matched" and not attached)
4) Switch to front disc brakes which I also don't like since the car is OEM with front 11" drum.
There are probably other options but at this point I feel discouraged with the choices I see. Others must have faced this problem.
How do you recommend I resolve this issue???
I would be grateful for any suggestions or guidance.

[Mr Cuda]

 I could sell you a used drum, and you could turn it. Best to match oversize to your other one for even braking. Problem one.
 I could sell you 2 brand new drums, and you could find studs, cut the old ones out, find someone to swedge them, then turn them to get rid of tension on the drums from swedgeing.Problem two.
 Find good organic shoes and have them arced to fit said drums.
Failure to arc the shoes will cause the shoe lining to crack as the shoe flexes to match the curve of the drum. People think it will wear in. It won't before you have ruined something, have poor braking, etc. Which is problem Three.
All that will cost as much or more than converting to disc.
 The solution to all your problems, and better braking is converting to disc.
 Then, since it was a drum car, and discs were not stock, you can put 12" rotors on it and have even better brakes.
 My vote is manual disc.

[pschlosser]

I vote keep looking.  If you can replace the drums with newer replacements, the car will not likely need drums in the front ever again before it's retired.  they last a long time (a decade or more) unless you're regularly braking hard and aggressive.

The studs are replaceable.  If you want LH studs (I did on my 1970 barracuda) and the hub (on the part you find) has RH, they can always be replaced.

Get to know the specs and diameters, if you want to go used.  If the seller does not know the measured diameters of the used drums, don't bother buying them.

Yes, aftermarket ones can get up there, close to $600/each as of this writing, but I see some newly made ones going for as low as $300/each in 2025.

[Mr Cuda]

Yes, aftermarket ones can get up there, close to $600/each as of this writing, but I see some newly made ones going for as low as $300/each in 2025.

Really?

I stand corrected. You should buy new drums,

[moonshine_mike]

Attached is a picture of my existing Drum/Hub assembly. This is not OEM but the Drum and Hub are one assembly and the drivers side does have LH studs. I do have a press and have used it to press numerous items including LH studs on rear axle shafts before.
Is it possible to separate the hub/stud section from the old drum and repress the hub/stud assembly into a new drum?
If so who sells the correct drum with the correct stud hole size allowing the friction fit of studs. Would I have to turn the reassembled drum/hub after?
I may warm up to this option.
 

[Mr Cuda]

To remove the drum, the swedged stud needs to be cut with a special tool or a hole saw.
Trying to press the stud out without relieving the lock fit will distort the hub flange. Once the drum is cut loose, the studs can be pushed out like normal.
 Obviously, new studs are needed to go back together. Getting proper ones was tough years ago, I have no idea whats available now.
Drum stud hole should be sized to go over the new stud shoulder loosely, as the swedging of the new stud will take up the gap. That might be why no stud shoulder will be a press fit to the drum.
The drum is centered off the hub, and you could run a new drum loose, or unswedged like a rear.

[Bullitt-]

  FWIW  C @challenger7070  is in the process of replacing 10" front drums and having problems finding workable studs.
 You might reach out to him for advice on the process

https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/which-lug-studs-for-front-drums/32288/msg340876#msg340876

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes, cut the swedges with a hole saw (running the drill in reverse). Then buy a set of these when available. They should be turned after swapping to make sure they run true. I would run an ad here looking for used hub/drum assemblies (make sure seller measures them first). I used to have 5 sets of these but got tired of carting them around. Someone will have usable ones though I bet.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1938.html?srsltid=AfmBOopKKdpB8TJ-B7Y_GMRhurmPXVmWWS8TNsVHXXBAWyQd1v3ZqobG

[pschlosser]

They should be turned after swapping to make sure they run true. I would run an ad here looking for used hub/drum assemblies (make sure seller measures them first).

Many of the front drum/hub assemblies were also balanced.  So, you may need to rebalance the unit as a whole, once the drum is swapped and the unit reassembled.

[moreparts]

I did my front 11" drums a few years back.  The one delema I had then was almost all of the ones I looked at were already stamped on the drum face at what the factory manual listed as the MAX diameter before replacement.

[RUNCHARGER]

If it was MY car I would package them up in a box to go with the car if it ever sold. Then do a disc conversion using all new parts. I have nothing against drum brakes but rather than swim uphill, swapping would be a lot easier as you can see. Not my car though and I understand wanting to keep it all stock. My last two original Hemi cars were both drum brake cars and fortunately everything was in good shape and I kept them original.

[moonshine_mike]

OK, went and retrieved the drums from the shop. Although the plan to go to disc brakes sounds attractive since I have already done this once, I still want to review the work and cost involved to replace old drum with with new drum.
Did some measurements.
-Drivers drum is indeed out of round with diameter changing between 11.063 and 11.094. I understand now why shop would not turn the drum.
-Studs are about 1.85"-1.9" in length with threaded part proud about 1" (I've added a couple pics)

Questions:
1) Are the studs swedged to the drum, or just pressed in? From the posts so far I assume swedged but I don't actually see it easily. One of the five studs is different leading me to believe it may have been pressed later in the life of drum.
2) Is the hub center spindle tube also swedged to the drum or just form fit?
2) I would like to save the hub and stud assembly if possible. Don't care about the drum. I understand the tool and how to cut around the stud. Is there any way to cut the drum depth only (about .25") and not into the hub, and then use the remaining hub/stud assembly pressed into a new drum? Or am I dreaming?

[moonshine_mike]

After a bit of research I can make a summary of what I think Ineed:
1) Two 11" drums Raybestos 1938R (stud hole=.64" should be a minor friction fit for stud)
2) 5 LH studs Dorman 610-133L (have 7 brand new ones in my hand)
3) 5 RH studs Dorman 610-132 (1 5/8" length, 11/16" shoulder, .65" Knurl) (easy to get)

Hole cutter.... can I use a normal .75" metal hole cutter or do I have to purchase the specialty tool?

[torredcuda]

Following - as I also plan on sticking with the front drums on my `70 road runner. I haven`t pulled out the drums I have to check them yet.

[mopar jack]

reach out to Craig@mobllparts on forbbodies only. He knows these brakes and has a huge inventory of parts. He post his number on the B body site so I';; list it here. 516 485 1935