Heater valve

[Rich G.]

Does anyone rebuild or is there a kit to repair the plastic heater valves? I have the metal replacement one but would like to keep it looking original if possible.

[Skdmark]

I have not seen any rebuild kits.

Would love to replace my non-OEM one with the correct version.
However, I am reluctant to do so because of the OEM prices and how easily they tend to fail.

[JH27N0B]

I think when they fail it is typically due to the bakelite or whatever plastic compound their mostly made from housing cracking.
So not rebuildable.
It would be nice if someone would make a correct looking replacement out of a more durable material, but I am not holding my breath.

[Skdmark]

If the OEM version could be disassembled, I have someone in St. Charles IL who could mold and pressure cast them with a high heat resin like Epoxacast.

[71GranCoupe]

Once, you get an NOS one for $100 or less, looks like they are getting fewer and far for availability. The originals were notorious for failing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144745645129?epid=8039743286&hash=item21b3834449:g:2VUAAOxyjP1R24ii&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsN6jE0xXak21rr8WjkYIfptfO8X3QvDl6NqZKH7WsnbCEz69HG0%2F95QHGm9NajRl3hxXimuBTBBNVwW9P2dF9qmiCy9REaQMOXVqYBDwS5wIQdG4M99jDbC0250dq0%2BbuiW5m4jUSOPh8QOz5BqORmGgGXNQTJXpPD8f5Qs6vMygnTrhHVVlWyNwGXc%2FHMONbsa%2FyCmAgMiObfey7Ux%2Fo3Qq%2BU5fbuL%2FCaPXrN6A8W3l%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7Cw8ZzBYQ

[R/T's 4 R/P]

I have an NOS C-body if anyone is interested.
After finishing my last car with AC I have a number of leftover items I'd let go.

[headejm]

I have an NOS C-body if anyone is interested.
After finishing my last car with AC I have a number of leftover items I'd let go.

Can you post some pics of the C-body valve that you have?

[Rich G.]

I have this new valve. Don't know what it is for but it is vacuum operated.

[EV2RTSE]

B-Body I believe

[MoparLeo]

Be careful buying replacements other than the one designed for the E-body. The valve ratios are different. That means that for each "' the cable moves the valves opens up a pre-determined amount.
H30-111 is the number on the OE valve, any other number is for a different application.

[Skdmark]

Where do they typically fail / crack at?

[EV2RTSE]

I believe they crack across the top black piece. I went and dug out a few that I have to check the numbers, the 3502346 came from Frank Mitchell (RIP) and the other I found maybe 5 or 6 years ago on ebay. It was listed as a 75 Charger valve or something and the seller had dozens of them for like $49. I should have bought them all I guess! Other than the markings the two appear identical. The one in the mopar box is H30-105 and the one with the generic box is H30-111. I guess the H30 is the important part? They seem to be held together with screws, I haven't attempted to disassemble one though.

[MoparLeo]

The critical part is the stamped metal top brackets slot that actuates the valve.
Think of the slot as a cam lobe. Its shape determines the lift and duration of the valve opening.
The shape of the arc and length must be the same.
I printed a picture of your valves and cut the photo in half and then overlayed them. Pretty close. Might even be the same, but the valves were not at exactly the same angle in the picture.
Here are just 2 examples.
The valve is the same but the slot is different giving a different stroke length on the cable and a different opening rate on the valve.

[EV2RTSE]

Very helpful explanation and pictures, thanks. The H30-112 comes up as 75-78 Charger /Coronet / Magnum, I guess I got lucky finding a 111 without realizing it. It too was listed as mid-70's Charger.

[70vert]

from the pics only, it appears the metal piece could be removed and swapped onto a different plastic base. If so, that would solve both the OE look (since the metal bracket looks to be the only part with part numbers) and the proper flow rates. But maybe it is more complicated?