k-member and misc parts painting

[Jocigar]

Hi Guys,

Not sure where to post this; while the car is off to media blasting I am trying to work on these components.

I blasted and painted everything 20 plus years ago and its been sitting.   Some rust is showing and I am thinking of taking it all apart to freshen everything up.

Suggestions on spray cans for the job appreciated.

I took a picture of what I used back in the day, including what I think I used for the engine? need to paint valve covers and hope color is good and matches.

also, I can having the exhaust manifolds blasted again do to some surface rust, as I recall I used an Eastman can of something and applied it with a sponge?

Sorry for all the questions.  thx!

[Jocigar]

Bringing this to the top, sorry.

Looking for aerosol can suggestions for re-detailing these components if something better has come along?

Has Cody or anyone made a detailing chart for the k-frame assembly?    gray/silver/gloss black/matte black

Thanks!

[70 Challenger Lover]

I'm a bit curious myself. I tend to bead blast and paint either black satin or cast iron gray. I have never reached for restoration perfection but it probably wouldn't take much more effort to get everything right.

[1 Wild R/T]

Just my opinion but if your blasted & rattle canned the parts 20 years ago & it's been sitting but is showing signs of rust why would you want to do the same thing again? Spray bomb stuff is temporary... Get a spray gun & use quality products...

[Chryco Psycho]

I powder coated most of the front suspension , even if it is the wrong color you can spray paint over the powder coat

[70 Challenger Lover]

Just my opinion but if your blasted & rattle canned the parts 20 years ago & it's been sitting but is showing signs of rust why would you want to do the same thing again? Spray bomb stuff is temporary... Get a spray gun & use quality products...

I've actually had pretty good results with rattle can paint as long as it's properly cleaned and primed first. That being said, I completely agree that spraying high end paint with a gun gets you a much better looking and longer lasting result. The reason I don't always go that route is convenience and expense. My local shop only sells imron in solvent based paints and the color selection is limited. Plus is pretty pricey because they don't sell it in quantities smaller than a quart. Imron satin black for instance is almost as shiny as gloss black in rattle can so the finished result is not always the look I'm after. Had I used it on my interior parts, it would have looked really out of place.  I'm hoping that once I'm out of California, the selection of solvent based products is better.

[Mrbill426]

 

[Plumcrazzy]

The Eastwood product you were remembering was a Stainless Steel paint on product (brush or sponge). I used it on my stock cast iron exhaust manifolds on my 440 and it worked very well and lasted fairly well. When it got a bad looking place I just touched it up and was good to go. Not sure if they still carry it.

[Mrbill426]

I am not sure how correct mine is but I think it turned out ok.

[Topcat]

I powder coated most of the front suspension , even if it is the wrong color you can spray paint over the powder coat

I agree with Neil.

Did Spray Bomb...No good

Did paint out of a Gun...Nice but susceptible to chipping

Did Powder coat...by far I see being  the best durability, easy to keep clean.

[anlauto]

I use the Seymore's products in your picture, and also Wurth high solids satin black.

[Jocigar]

Thanks for all the replies.

I used matte black rustoleum on kframe, driveshaft and dana it has held up well. 

Parts have been sitting on cement floor for a loong time.    I would say that the seymore cast grey has held up much better than the Stainless pigment which is showing the surface rust... I may go with all cast gray on the parts that are factory bare metal.

At this point, if I even finish and drive the car, 20 more years would be great and my kids can worry about the next re-fresh