new or rebuild sixpack?

[moparx5]

on my v code are a set of direct connection mechanical secondary carbs the original owner installed when he raced the car in the 70s . I have final finished the car and have put a few miles on it. the carbs are a beast and defiantly respond to the right foot !!!!  the drivability off idle  seems a little difficult mainly on hill stops. not much feathering in the throttle , seem to want all or nothing. spring tension could be a factor, right now it has the factory 6 pack spring.
so the long and short of this is i am planning to move this car along and am thinking factory carbs might be a better deal for new owner . the car cam with what i believe to be the original  outer carbs. I can post some pics and sure you guys can confirm either way. so the question is do i send the carbs i have for rebuild   and to who or just order a new set and leave the orignals in the box with some of the other orig parts that werent put back on the car 

[MoparLeo]

As you have noted, mechanical secondary carbs, no matter what type or size are all or nothing.
Probably why they weren't used on street applications where you don't bury your foot in the pedal every time you want to go. 
Vacuum for the street.

[1972V21Cuda]

Ship to Scott Smith

[anlauto]

If the new over counter ones are still available, I would buy a set of those to put on the car to sell.  Then try and sell the ones on your car to off-set the cost

[Chryco Psycho]

I still believe the original carbs are a better piece than the new carbs that are available now but it seems you will still need a correct center carb for your system , if the carbs are in good condition it is easy to install a new gasket kit & use them , your call on finding a good center carb or buying new ,

[RUNCHARGER]

If I was looking at buying your car the original carbs would be the ones I would want. I would look for a correct center carb and rebuild them. I've run those 4782-4783 carbs and they worked well for me though, better than the vacuum setup. Selling the original carbs is kind of like getting rid of your birth certificate because you aren't using it.

[anlauto]

Maybe I read it wrong....but it sounded as if he wasn't sure the outboards were original, sounded like they been butchured and missing the vacuum pots and converted to mechanical....AND he is just selling the car anyways....

I stand by my opinion, just get it running nice with new carbs, throw the old ones in the trunk and let the next owner worry about it...

[moparx5]

the outers are not original it is a set from direct connection bought in early 70s this car has 16k original miles on it, the 2 outers he gave me he had in a draw with the distributor .i can only assume the center is original to car but not sure how to check the numbers on it or the outers. any help on those numbers would be nice.

[Chryco Psycho]

Ok so you have a full set of mechanical carbs on the car now correct ?
The 2 in the picture are the end carbs that you also have , on the back of the carb the # should be stamped into the carb, so we can figure out what those are from the # .
The center carb for a full mechanical system is very different from the center carb for a vacuum system , the vacuum system uses the center hung bowl with the fuel inlet angled down from the passenger side of the carb , the mechanical system uses the side hung bowls with the fuel inlet at the top of the bowl on the drivers side .
They are not interchangable .

[MoparLeo]

OK. just so I understand what the original guy posted, The Carbs are Not the original carbs but are replacement carbs for racing. OK so far ?
He wants to know whether to have them rebuilt or replace them. Sell the car without problems.
I would say to advertise the car as is and let the buyer decide how he wants to finish the car.

[moparx5]

been working insane hours
i will post the numbers this weekend
realy just trying to find out if they are the correct date coded cabs for that car
and yes i understand the middle is completely different carb
i should have been more clear  and asked if anyone else is using the mechanical carbs on the street , what return spring or springs  are they using and what linkage are they using for the processive linkage. i havent given up on this set up, i have ony 80 to 100 miles on the car just trying  evaluate the streetable
  trust me its not like i " just wanna sell the car" i bought it because i know very well its history from day one and original owner ,it deserved to be brought back to its as close as possible original condition and out it drag race condition, which it has been. i wasn't expecting to take 4 plus years to get it there, at the time i bought that car had a 71 cuda in full blown resto and that took a back seat to put the challenger back together on top of that my 67 cuda i built 15 years ago driven hard and put away wet always, just an insane fun street car needs some attention, both cars i have no intention of selling .
the market seems tricky for cars like the challenger, it's not some crazy over the top show room car , but it retains almost all its original parts and looks dam good wearing them !! had her out a one small charity cruise last year and it was defiantly noticed , hoping it draws some attention this spring at some of the cruise nights and maybe someone will put an offer on it that makes sense.
 
       

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes I am running the same system , seems perfectly drivable to me , , I am using a sliding steel rod type linkage so the middle carb can still be opened 25% or a bit more without the outboards coming in .
i believe @jordan is running the same system as well & he has more miles on his than I do .

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: There is a rod that connects the end carbs 1 to 1. Then a hook mounted on the center carb that slides along that connecting rod but doesn't activate the end carbs until it is about 1/4 throttle. all 3 carbs hit WOT at the same time. It's more streetable than the vacuum setup IMO and with 3 accelerator pumps all action with no waiting when setup correctly.

[docmel]

I used to beBIG  into the six pack, tri power  (GM version) and six barrels.   

There is prob with the new/replacement versions.  The metering plates are not the same as the originals, and it takes some work to get the most out of the new replacements made by Holley.  And Holley is no help.  They lost thier historical knowledge on these carbs decades ago.   While the newer versions will work pretty much ok out of the box, there is still the installation:  Setting up the linkage in these carbs is fairly detailed, but easy if you take the time to follow the ORIGINAL manual guidlines.   Also, if you have never ran a six setup with vacum secondaries, its not a "sudden, pin u back in the seat" feeling when you romp on it.  Its more like a "fast push" you back in the seat

The sixes are sexy, but it isnt a bolt on and go type of deal.  Setting up the linkages correctly is the key.  And again, the new replacments need more work out of the box on the metering blocks to get them to work as they were meant to.   And there pratically is no one around anymore that knows how to do the work 

[docmel]

Another thought........Alloot of folks removed the vacum pod ttahcments on the outborads and used linkages so the outboards would kick in sooner (mechanically) to get rid of the vacuum associated (push you in the seat feel)  Allot of floks wanted that "Pin you in the seat feel"...............

If you get a original set rebuilt, beware.  Most restorers nowadays use holley replacment parts.  The kits DO NOT have the right metering blocks like the priginal.  Will they work, yes.  Will it run like from the factory, no