horn wire in steering wheel

[chargerdon]

My fuse panel had badly rusted terminals, and for years i would try sanding but still had problems.   Last year i bit the bullet and purchased a new 12 post plug in plug panel (two 6 plug sides).    I wired all of the left side cavities 1-4 constant hot to one half of the new panel and moved the constant on hot wire to the new fuse panel and all tested fine.  Everything worked.   Because its hard laying on your butt and working under the dash, i quit at that.   Simply taped the new fuse panel to the top of the steering column.     

This past week the number 8 fuse in the old rusted panel blew (radio and turn signals) and i couldn't get a new fuse to make good contact in all of that rust, so, ok i moved 3 of the four right side cavities 5, 6 and 8 to another side of the new panel (number 7 cavity not used anymore with the vintage air system) and moved the switched power lead to the new fuse block.   

Tested and ALL worked leaving JUST the horn relay still plugged into the old fuse block and it was working with a feed from the constant side of the new fuse panel.   So, to finish removing the old rusted panel, i removed the horn relay and cut its two remaining wires out and and wired them up directly to the relay without any holder and lots of electrical tape around the connectors.   Horn didn't work!!! After much testing i realized that that i had reversed the two leads for horns and horn switch.  Put them on properly and still no Horn!!  I then ran a temporary ground wire to the relay post for horn switch and the horns work.!!!  BUT will not work when i try the horn normally at the steering wheel.   

SO, either i have the wrong wire for the steering wheel horn wire or, i have a wiring problem.   The wiring diagram says it should be a black with tracer wire, and that is the one that i was working with.    I removed the horn pad so i can get to the wire at the switch directly and it does make ground when pushed, but no connectivity to the wire i have to the relay.    It is possible i'm grabbing the wrong wire, BUT, in studying the wiring diagrams, the wire i'm using is black with tracer and the diagrams says that is right.   The diagrams show a black wire coming from steering wheel into the 7 wire connector that then should go to the relay.   So i tried a probe at the flat seven wire connector on the right most black wire that should be it, but, using a multi-meter to the wire in steering wheel no connectivity.   Not wanting to unplug that seven wire connector for fear of having additional connection problems, i instead cut it out of the connector before going into it.  Tested for continuity at the steering wheel and none.  I'm beginning to think that when i hooked the wires up backwards and tested that sent POWER thru the wire and maybe damaged it????????

Now if that is the case i need to run a new wire thru the Steering wheel.   Has anyone ever done that without removing the coumn?   Can a new wire be snaked thru the column?????    If yes what is the procedure?   I did remove the horn switch and the steering wheel itself and can see the horn wire where it goes into the crush can...   There is a large nut there is it safe to remove or is a special puller then needed?   

[Chryco Psycho]

The wire up the column is a ground from the relay , hit the horn button the relay is grounded & send power too the horn , so you need to have power to the relay in the fuse panel , when the relay is closed power goes out to the horn , .
you can test the wire with an ohm meter for continuity , when the horn button is pressed the black wire should read zero ohms to ground .

[chargerdon]

The wire up the column is a ground from the relay , hit the horn button the relay is grounded & send power too the horn , so you need to have power to the relay in the fuse panel , when the relay is closed power goes out to the horn , .
you can test the wire with an ohm meter for continuity , when the horn button is pressed the black wire should read zero ohms to ground .

Right.   I have power to the relay and a good lead to the horns.   But, i don't have ground from the horn button.   I have checked the lead with an ohm meter for continuity and there is none.   So, having never worked on the steering wheel is it possible to run a new wire to the horn button to the relay without removing the column ?   

If i remove the wheel and the crush can, can i then snake a new line down thru it without further disassembly ??   

[anlauto]

The horn ground goes through the signal switch. If you ran a wire from your horn button to the relay I think you would notice the wire twisting up as you turn the wheels

Take the crush can off, inspect the ground ring on the bottom of it and make sure it's contacting the post on the signal switch. Ground ring and wire are available in reproduction.

[Jay Bee]

There is a large nut there is it safe to remove or is a special puller then needed?

Yes, it's safe to remove it. After you remove the nut don't pry on the crush can, you'll damage it. I made my own crush can puller or you can buy one.

[chargerdon]

Anlauto....thanks for the picture of the turn signal and how it makes contact with the horn wire...   Makes sense !!    Ill bet my problem is a burnt spot on the spring caused by my putting power on that lead.   

Gonna take off the crush can and inspect...   Thanks !!!   

[chargerdon]

Got it working.   After pulling the crush can tested for continuity from relay to the spring wheel in turn signal and it was good.    From the ground ring at bottom of crush can to the wire on top good continuity.    The problem was there was stuck gunk all around the ground ring.   Sanded it off and put back together and all is working well.   

What i don't understand is how it was working before i moved the relay from the old fuse block, and then chose not work due to the gunk on the ground ring after i moved the relay to new fuse block connections.   Weird...tho again, i guess wiring it backwards the first time would have sent power up the ground wire ...maybe that caused that gunk to solidify and cause problems?? 

All good now.  Thanks again Anlauto for the pictures !!!!