LED Light Kit, Let the fun begin.

[jlemler]

Someone in a previous post asked if there was a kit for all of the LED bulbs.  I have found a kit for a 1970 Cuda with a 383,there is a catch with my cuda, it has the grand coupe option.  The elusive map light for the overhead console is not there. They also have other kits for all types of cars and trucks. Here is the website:

https://autoclassicled.com/product/plymouth-led-conversion-kit/

Here is what you get in the box.  I clearly see some head scatchers such as map/ courtesy light.  It will be awhile before I can install them do to shoulder surgery. I also noticed there is flasher relay; however, no turn signal relay.  we will see how it goes.

Could someone clear something up for me, please?  I was under the impression that I would need two relays to complete the install.  One relay for the flasher/warning lights which I believe the kit has and it is square with two prongs.  I thought there was another for the turn signals that is round and next to the ashtray, am I correct?  If so I wonder why it wasn't included?  I knew there would be some head scratchers.
Jeff

[anlauto]

I had tried this once before and had nothing but ground issues, curious as to how you make out with this kit....please keep us posted..

[Dmod1974]

Interesting....  What issues have you all had?  Literally every light bulb in my car except for the bulb in the reverse light is LED, and the only reason that one isn't is just because I didn't feel like cutting open the lamp housing to change it out. 

As I recall a couple of them require reverse polarity LED bulbs (glove box lamp for sure) due to the way the sockets are wired from the factory, but I have not had any issues with grounding or anything else.

[chargerdon]

hmmm   $150 isnt ridiculous i guess if you really want to change out every light bulb.   

But why?   What do i care if my glove box is incandescent or LED..  and who really cares about the warning lights. Heck my car doesnt even have a door open warning light.   I dont want to change out everything just the bulbs that have "function"  i.e yes the parking lights and that means the front and rear turn signals.  The reverse light would probably benefit from brighter lighting.   Inside yes, the dash board lights would be beneficial.  Also, if the turn signal lights must have a different flasher that should be included.   

So give me three levels of kits:
1) THe already everything
2) Turn signal/parking lights with reverse light and Dash board lights
3) Turn signal/parking only but with any necessary relay. 

[Dmod1974]

hmmm  $150 isnt ridiculous i guess if you really want to change out every light bulb. 

But why?  What do i care if my glove box is incandescent or LED..  and who really cares about the warning lights. Heck my car doesnt even have a door open warning light.  I dont want to change out everything just the bulbs that have "function"  i.e yes the parking lights and that means the front and rear turn signals.  The reverse light would probably benefit from brighter lighting.  Inside yes, the dash board lights would be beneficial.  Also, if the turn signal lights must have a different flasher that should be included. 

So give me three levels of kits:
1) THe already everything
2) Turn signal/parking lights with reverse light and Dash board lights
3) Turn signal/parking only but with any necessary relay. 

For me, I was already going through my entire car during restoration so it was a no brainer. I probably wouldn't proactively swap out most of these ancillary bulbs either in a completed car.

The kit is overpriced IMO, but I suppose convenience has a price. You can get LED bulbs from thousands of vendors nowadays as long as you know the right sizes and that info is readily available. I used Super Bright LED's for my build for everything other than the headlights which came from Dapper Lighting. I used cheap and generic electronic flashers with the ground wire attached from Amazon since they work with LED's and still make an audible click.

[dodj]

hmmm   $150 isnt ridiculous i guess if you really want to change out every light bulb.   

But why?   What do i care if my glove box is incandescent or LED..  and who really cares about the warning lights. Heck my car doesnt even have a door open warning light.   I dont want to change out everything just the bulbs that have "function"  i.e yes the parking lights and that means the front and rear turn signals.  The reverse light would probably benefit from brighter lighting.   Inside yes, the dash board lights would be beneficial.  Also, if the turn signal lights must have a different flasher that should be included.   

So give me three levels of kits:
1) THe already everything
2) Turn signal/parking lights with reverse light and Dash board lights
3) Turn signal/parking only but with any necessary relay. 

I converted the tail lights....because I want people to notice I'm braking...I figure brighter is better. I'm with you on the rest....if ya feel like it.

[chargerdon]

Yesterday i ordered two packs of LED 1157 tail light bulbs, and first installed 3 of them into my 1966 Dodge Charger (it uses 3 bulbs per side).   They indeed are at least twice as bright and surprise, surprise the turn signal worked without any modification.   

Next i put the remaining bulb into the drivers side of my 74 Challenger.   The results were that you could see the LED bulb at least twice as bright as the incandescent.   However, on the Challenger the turn signal flasher would only flash about once every 8-10 seconds.   When i tried that bulb on the passenger side it worked better but still tooo slow.   So, i have ordered thru Amazon an electronic flasher replacement.   Supposed to be 100% plug and play and is supposed to restore the flash rate for either rapid flashing or too slow flashing.   

What i ordered
Also today i installed on the drivers side rear tail light bulbs in LED.   The ones i purchase were thru Amazon package of two for $12.95 .   Wow the difference in brightness.   I was worried that the turn signals wouldn't work properly because of the power required difference, but, as it turns out they work just fine.  I think the fact that the Charger uses 3 bulbs per side help create the necessary draw.   Regardless they work well and i'm going to post a daytime picture of the Charger in my garage so that u can see the difference. 

 I only put in the drivers side so that i could watch the difference in the flash rate, but there was very little.   Since i bought 4 bulbs i tried the fourth in my 74 Challenger.   Again, much brighter, but it turn signal rate was like only 1 flash for every 10 seconds. 

So, i have ordered two more packs ( 4 bulbs) So, that i have enough for the rear of both cars, and i ordered from Amazon an electronic replacement flasher.   It is said to have a consistent flash rate regardless of the bulb wattage.\

What i bought was :
AUXLIGHT 2057 1157 2357 7528 2057A 1157A 2357A LED Bulbs Brilliant Red, Ultra Bright 57-SMD LED Replacement for Brake/Tail Lights, Blinker Lights, Turn Signal/Parking or Running Lights (Pack of 2)   Four packs for both cars.  $12.99 per pack

LDMINDA 2 Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay 12V LED Turn Signal Light Blinker Relay Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay 2 Prong Flasher Relay 20 Amps FixTurn Signal Bulbs for Universal Model.   $7.99   

Again, this is for my Challenger as the Charger doesn't seem to need it.  I think on the Charger since the car uses 3 bulbs per side the wattage per bulb of 4.8 watts adds up to enough to operate properly.   

[70vert]

Thanks @chargerdon
I have also installed LEDs in my Challenger tail lights for the brightness. Mine also flash much less frequent (with existing flasher) but though I don't like it I've just been living with it. If you can confirm the Amazon replacement flasher does indeed help I will also get that! Again thanks for the input.

PS: I actually bought a flasher with the set of LED bulbs (from SuperBright) but it actually made it worse. Sometimes they didn't even flash at all.

-Rick

[chargerdon]

First, I am sending the electronic flasher back!!!  It doesn't work on my Challenger.

Discovered the flasher would only flash if the battery was 100% full charge or when the engine is running and the alternator charging...i.e  With engine not running, but the ignition on, the voltage at the positive lead into the flasher  reads about 12.2 volt in accessory and 11.8 with ignition.  I would flash slowly with key on accessory, but with ignition on no flash until i start the engine and get the alternator putting out 13.5 volt.   But, even with engine running, turn on the headlights and at idle no flash.   I.e that Electronic flasher is very sensitive to voltage.   Sending it back. 

Then low and behold, dont know why, but putting back in the standard flasher and the LED bulb it began to flash on the passenger side.   Put the LED in on the drivers side, and it also flashers tho about 25% slower than what the passenger side does...  im guessing better ground on the passenger side???   Regardless, even with headlights on and engine not running they still flash at a reasonable speed.   

Yes, i tested in every combination, headlights on brakes on and they still flash and the entire system is about twice as bright as the old incandescents..