OH NO. Bad electrical bug

[Camman.8]

I found this yesterday as I routinely fire up the Barracuda.
Lights didn't work right and I found a Short in front fog/turn signal light I repaired it with a new wire and pigtail. Now the  emergency flasher and blinkers only on top of the fenders work as well as the dash indicator lights. The headlights work but no body side marker lights or fog lights, tail lights, no brake light, no dome light, no dash lights, no license plate light, on my 73 barracuda.
Could it still be the turn signal switch shorted if the turn signals still work on the fender lights and dash indicator lights?
I checked for bad fuses. All is good.
All wiring is new and was working fine.
Garage is pretty tight but I suspect a critter chewed up the wiring in the light pigtail.
Any ideas???

[ebodyproducts]

I'd replace the forward light harness.

[340Challman]

Those are so many different circuits that I'm going to say you have an issue with your bulkhead connector/fuse block. Better crawl under there and see what there is to see. Keep a fire extinguisher handy if you've still got the battery connected. I would take the battery out until you have found the problem and remedied it.

[Camman.8]

I was thinking that it wasn't anything simple. Battery is disconnected for safety. I'll start tracking things down tomorrow starting with the bulk head.

[dodj]

I'm thinking I would have the column connectors high on my list. It's been a while since I fiddled with the wiring in my Challenger but there is a common fault that occurs with the column connector as well as the bulkhead connector re high resistance connections causing a melted opening...or worse. And you are looking for an event that takes out a lot of stuff. These connectors could be your problem or a part of it. Another could be grounds. Now I don't think there is any common connection point to all you have listed but I would check all my ground connection points all the same. Next disconnect your rear harness. Then reconnect the battery and see if your forward harness lights work. If yes, you have an issue with the run to the trunk...a commonly shorted bundle of wires running down the drivers side floor and over the rear wheel well. If no, reverse the procedure and unplug the front harness and plug in the rear. Do the rears work? 
That's how I would start to try and narrow down where the problem lies.

[pschlosser]

Inspection and maintenance to ALL the electrical connectors is a must do, at least once, when taking out the interior, and carpet.  When the car is disassembled to this level, nearly every connector in the car is now exposed and ready for cleaning and inspection.

These 50+ year-old cars often have some level of corrosion at their bullet and spade connections between varying wire harnesses.  But be careful, when handling, because the insulation may have hardened and become brittle, cracking and exposing copper wire to further oxidation.

But once you go through and check/clean all the connections, if you grease them, they will then outlast the presumed remaining life of the car (another 50+ years)

Even with the interior still in place, you can service the steering column and fuse box connections pretty easily.

There are tools to safely remove the crimp terminals from the connector housings.  For those reading this, here is my procedure to clean these connections:

* disconnect the connection housing end-point of the harness (from one harness to another, fuse bock, lamp, etc.)
* where possible, remove the terminals from the connector housing with the special tool
* scrub the terminal (often crimped) clean using straight vinegar and an old toothbrush
* rinse the terminal well immersing it in a glass of water
* where possible, blow the terminal dry with compressed air
* inspect the terminal and replace if it's in horrible shape.  
* where needed, gently reshape terminals, locking tabs, and/or slightly close the female spades using needle nose pliers
* grease the metal parts of the terminal with dielectric grease (silicon grease it my favorite)
* as needed, replace broken and cracked connector housings
* reassemble the terminal into the connector housing
* reconnect the connector housing end-point

where possible, working one wire terminal at a time, it's pretty hard to reassemble it wrong.

But having access to the factory wiring diagram (as in those found in the freely available OEM factory service manuals) is pretty handy, as those diagrams even tell you the gauge and color of the wire.  These diagrams should dispel any mystery or questions you may have about what is correct.

[Mopar Marc]

The dash indicators and fender turn signal lights are on the same circuit as the front turn signal lights so it's not the switch. It's got to be a bad connection somewhere in that area because the fender turn signals and front turn signals are connected together in that area.

I don't know how you are checking your fuses but the tail lights, Marker lights, license plate light, and parking lights are all on the same circuit. So I would go back and check not just the fuses but where they snap into with a test light. I'm going to rule out the bulkhead connector with both your problems because that would only affect the lighting from the firewall forward.

[dodj]

I'm going to rule out the bulkhead connector with both your problems because that would only affect the lighting from the firewall forward.

Unless power isn't getting into the cabin at all.

[Camman.8]

Thanks to all. I finally got some time check things out. I had all new wiring installed from American Autowire. I finally found the prints so I could start running things down (dam there a lot of wires in a car LOL). First I checked the Bulkhead and found no signs of damage to any connections or burn marks. I replaced two fuses that were blown, hooked the battery back up and crossed my fingers. Things started working again. Except dash lights and the front blinker/running light that the critter chewed up. I thought I repaired it but it's not working anymore. Ordered a new pigtail socket.I found the Dash lights dimmer switch went bad. I had a spare and replaced it and that took care of of that.
Then I put the multimeter to work and checked every wire starting from the front to the back. Checked voltage, resistance, ground. As I got to the wiring harness in the trunk I found the driver side rear body side marker light socket went bad too. I ordered a new one for that also. When they get here I will change them and recheck. I started the car and made sure the Voltage Regulator and Alternator were working as they should and they were. It was worth all the checking because I feel more confident now that all the lights will work. I'm so glad things weren't worse and I'm glad you all steered me in the right direction concerning what to check.
Thanks again. I wouldn't have known what all to check and if something was bad and I didn't know to check it, things could've gotten ugly quick.i think I got pretty damned lucky!