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Rear taillights not working and other electrical problems

Started by Shoooter, April 30, 2021, 07:27:28 PM

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72RoadRunnerGTX

Have you verified the park lamps fuse in the fuse panel is good? Check for voltage on both sides of the fuse (lowest position, driver's side, sometimes labeled MISC or LAMPS, 20amps). If so, check for voltage at the B2 terminal (pink wire) at the switch has power (switch terminals are labeled). If voltage is present at the switch on B2, check for voltage at R terminal on the switch when the switch is in the middle position. R terminal provides power to the park lamps and dimmer. From the dimmer, voltage is supplied to the illumination lamps via another fuse in the fuse panel, illumination only-5amp.

Shoooter

I now have power to the back lights. But not reverse lights or the dash reverse light.  I also do not have any power on the fuse panel for the illumination. 

With the switch in the car I can't get up there to check power. Is there a way to check it when it's out of the car? I can pull the switch out and test it.

I still don't have any park lights. Would any of this be effected by not having a horn relay? I ordered one and should be here in a day or so. Other threads I have read people were saying there lights cut out when it wasn't installed. Thanks everyone I'm getting closer to figuring it out.

72RoadRunnerGTX

If the park lamps circuit is dead, you won't have illumination voltage anywhere. No, the horn relay has nothing to do with lights. Did you check the fuse for the park lamps? The reverse lights are on keyed power, separate issue, did you check the keyed fuses?


dodj

Shooter,  it will help if you explain what you found/fixed etc you will likely get more informed and better advice on how to proceed with further troubleshooting.
Ie this fuse checked good,  or found broken wire etc.
:alan2cents:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Shoooter

I pulled the  misc fuse cleaned the terminal and did the same with with the headlight switch. Cleaned with sand paper and it came on.

The fuse panel has power to every fuse except the illumination 5 amp one.

As of last night this is what works
Rear driving lights
Rear turn signals and hazard lights
Front high and low beams

No reverse lights or dash reverse light.
Radio also doesn't light up.

The steering coloum is lowered as well so I could get the Guage cluster cover out to see behind the dash. I know things ground through the coloum should I put it back up?

72RoadRunnerGTX

Glass fuses can fail, be open, and appear to be intact. You will need to verify you have voltage present at both ends of the fuses mentioned, not just power to the fuse panel, voltmeter or test light. The only thing grounding through the steering column is the horn switch, no light grounds at the column. Have you verified power at B2 terminal (pink wire) of the headlight switch?
What are "rear driving lights"? Park/running light? So, you have rear parking lamps with the head light switch in the middle position, but not front parking or dash illumination?

dodj

Quote from: Shoooter on May 04, 2021, 06:30:19 AM
The fuse panel has power to every fuse except the illumination 5 amp one.
Controlled by the dimmer switch. Check it or jumper it.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


Shoooter

What's the best way to check the dimmer?  Or how do I jump it

dodj

I believe you need to connect terminal "I" to "R".

There is only power to the dimmer when the hlight switch is on (markers or hlights)
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Shoooter

I confirmed there is power at the park lamp switch alone with power at the pink B2 wire. There is also power to the R terminal when the switch is in the middle position.  I was also able to get power to the illumination fuse after I ran a ground jumper to the dimmer.

At this point I still never could get the park lamps to turn on. And this is where I figured out my problem up to a point. I checked for power to the side marker light plug and I had power but the park lamps still would not come on. Then I pulled the park lamp lens and the bulb, confirmed it is the right bulb checked for power behind the bulb and I had power.

I started to look and make sure that the contacts on the bulbs mated up with the contacts on the housing and they didn't.  After digging around I found my original ones and the contacts are in a different spot.  So unless someone makes a bulb with a different offset of side studs I need to get new pig tails on these.

I bought these new about 6 years ago and never had a reason to check them.

At this point in the night I didn't carrying on trying to figure out why I don't have illumination lights or reverse lights.

I guess one step at a time.

Shoooter

I bought these through Roseville years ago and never checked.  The index on the socket is wrong. I will have to get a new socket pressed in for then to work


docmel

Told ya!    Always check the simple stuff first.  You can get those sockets at any auto parts store

Shoooter

Yup you were right. Unfortunately you can't get the park lamp ones at the parts store they need to be pressed in. I belive I will jlhave to send these to Mike over at Bea

72RoadRunnerGTX

Quote from: Shoooter on May 04, 2021, 09:30:58 PM
I was also able to get power to the illumination fuse after I ran a ground jumper to the dimmer.
Ground jumper, can you explain that? If you have voltage at the outboard end of the illumination fuse, the orange wires should be powered up. Make sure the original radio power connector has not been cut off. 

Shoooter

Sorry I ment to say I used a jumper wire. The kind with two alligator clips on it.

I will double check the radio clip to make sure the correct wires are hooked up. Thank you again for all the help on this