Carter AVS Rebuild...any guides?

[kawahonda]

Seems to have magically started to work this morning. I noticed when I pushed slightly on the choke lid that it had some tension and wouldn't "fully" close...that's a good sign.

Fired it up....the choke lid was slowly opening as it warmed up. Gave it a couple hard revs when it was warm and it moved mostly open.

Weird...maybe it was something with me fingering with stuff last night...

Just put her at 18 initial and that stumble is nearly eliminated. No pinging, and I did a couple full WOT runs. That should put me at about 37 degrees all in. I'd say at this point it's time to move into fine-carb tuning.

17.5 constant vacuum at 2700 feet. That's a pretty healthy motor. I may even have more vacuum that that after I play around with the air/fuel mixture screws...advancing the timing may require a little tweak of them..but probably not much.

[kawahonda]

There is some slight hesitation at partial throttle around 1000-1300 RPM. Instead of it just about stalling the engine like before with my crummy timing, you can just feel a little bit like it needs more fuel. Increasing my timing definitely helped tremendously, but it's still there.

I'm setting my idle at 900 RPM (727 auto) in PARK.

Since I've confirmed that the accelerator pump is properly measured and is squirting right away, I think it makes sense for me to get a larger nozzle. I believe a larger nozzle will reduce the amount of time it takes for the engine to receive that quick squirt--not necessarily giving the engine more fuel but faster.

Assuming that the air door only comes into play with the engine is nearly at WOT, so that shouldn't have anything to do with it like you guys said.

Tuning is fun...just want to make sure I'm tuning the right things. My distributor guy said to increase the nozzle...either drill or buy a larger one.

[RUNCHARGER]

Tuning the air door will be satisfying, however IMO it will be the last thing to adjust (assuming it isn't totally out of adjustment). A slightly bigger shot out of the nozzles should help.

[73440]

There is a coil in the choke well in the intake manifold that responds to heat. It pushed the rod (which is connected to the choke blade) up when cold to close the choke. On warmup the coil responds to heat and pulls the rod down, pulling the choke plate open. If you raise the carb up away from the manifold this coil won't push the rod up far enough to close the choke blade on a cold start. However it should be pushing the rod up far enough to partially close the choke blade.
With the car dead cold, open the hood, take off the aircleaner and from the right side with your eye on the rod from the intake manifold well to the choke blade crack the throttle open fully. You should witness movement in the choke rod. From there you can tell if it is binding, not pushing up enough or any other problem.

Here is a photo of my AVS choke well coil and linkage rod, mine needs a clip on the linkage , must be a push on clip as no hole in the linkage and now just falls out .

[kawahonda]

Just confirmed that increasing the initial timing definitely didn't solve the lower-RPM lean spot. It stalled on me while pulling onto the highway. Embarrassing!

I have 3 accelerator nozzles on order. I'm not sure which one my avs uses though...I tried to take some pics of the casting numbers...

I'm guessing that I just need to remove the choke plate and swap it out with the next largest up in the kit. That would probably be the fastest way to do it.

[kawahonda]

Do you guys have any idea what size the stock AVS nozzle is? I have the three nozzles: .024, .033, and .043.

I do have some Jewler's bits so I can certainly investigate if there's no standard spec.

The current marking looks like a "339" or a "<symbol>39"