Carter thermoquad rebuild

[Noah Swimley]

To get the idle speed back down I either turn the car off or when I was going down the road it happened, luckily on a straight stretch I would press the brake pedal and then stomp the gas over and over and it finally stopped.

[Chryco Psycho]

Throttle plates could be touching the gasket below the carb or if you have a thick gasket it could vbe warping the base & binding the shafts or the shafts could be gummed up

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

 

Noah, you say the gas pedal is not affected and does not stick, so the gas pedal returns to normal position even when this happens?

It doesn't seem to make sense to me because the throttle return spring should be on the throttle arm of the carb, and if that doesn't pull back to closed position, the pedal cable won't extend with it, pulling the pedal back to normal height... so gas pedal should be stuck down at least partially...

Have you checked throttle cable and gas pedal pivot for free movement? I've had gas pedal hook on rubber mat before, and also had a rusty pivot pin on the pedal... possible that cable could fray, too...

If main throttle seems to be closing (pedal height comes back to normal every time), then sounds like the secondaries are sticking open, not the primaries...

Welcome to  the site from sunny West Michigan!

[Noah Swimley]

What would be better. Get a new carburetor/ or get a correct one for my car, rebuild this one. The engine is original, the carburetor was remanufactured in the 80s and the rest of the car to the best of my knowledge is original. It was my mothers first car.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would go through what you hve first

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree, go through this carb and you should be able to get it running properly. Over time I would look for the correct # carb but I wouldn't sweat over it right now.

[Noah Swimley]

How do I tell which # is right for the correct carburetor

[ScottSmith_Harms]

The number is stamped into the face of the mounting foot on the driver's side rear. Yours should be a 6319s for an automatic, 6318s for a manual trans.

[RUNCHARGER]

Picture shows an automatic. 6340S if it is a Caluifornia car I think.

[7E-Bodies]

Also, Noah...if I remember in some of the messages we've exchanged over the last year or so, didn't you indicate that this car had sat in storage for a lengthy period after your moms passing? Some of the carb heavier hitters in this thread (which I am not more than basic) may want to know if it is just an issue of things having gotten sticky due to non use. Perhaps some varnishing due to deteriorating fuel during storage. Just thinking that tidbit might help.

Kevin

[ScottSmith_Harms]

As mentioned, it could be as simple as bad gas from sitting. Varnish and gunk from bad gas is the #1 problem with carburetors, especially with the garbage fuel we have these days.

I looked at the engine bay picture you posted (had my cell phone earlier, on the computer now) and noticed a few things. It looks very original overall but I also see that someone has repainted portions of the engine bay and some of the accessories which were not originally painted when it was new which brings the originality of other items into question.

I can now see that it's an automatic car so you should have a 6319s, or as mentioned by another responder, possibly a 6340 if it was coded N98 and sold new in California (see the special N98 emissions decal attached pic). Your broadcast sheet will have a code for the carburetor which would confirm which one it should have. The carburetor on your car appears visually correct but since I see a small rebuilders decal on the front it's possible that it's been swapped out for a different number.

[Noah Swimley]

Definitely not the original carburetor. I would like to get the correct one to have but I plan on putting a edel Brock avs on it and keep the old one.