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Coolant hose clamp broke

Started by Nel, July 08, 2020, 06:02:24 PM

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Nel

Are we the only ones to have problem with OEM style coolant hose clamp? It's the second one that broke in tow . The first one was the one on top of the water pump and yesterday the bottom one on the rad. They are clamps that we got from yearones about 10 years ago. They still look good,  not rust at all.

I need to replace those 2, because I put the screw type for a quick fix. I'm starting to think that I got a bad batch and change them all. Any difference between sellers or there all from the same place?

A friend of mine told me that when he install a hose with those clamps, he put a bed of right stuff just afther the big part of the nipple, then he slide the hoses and the clamps. He say that he never add a leak after that, and the right stuff it self would hold the hose in case the clamp break. Any thoughts on that?

DeathProofCuda

Quote from: Nel on July 08, 2020, 06:02:24 PM
A friend of mine told me that when he install a hose with those clamps, he put a bed of right stuff just afther the big part of the nipple, then he slide the hoses and the clamps. He say that he never add a leak after that, and the right stuff it self would hold the hose in case the clamp break. Any thoughts on that?

My dad was a fan of using sealants on cooling hoses, but personally I hate the mess they make and I hate the additional work needed to break them loose when you need to disconnect the hose.  I would guess that a bead of The Right Stuff would be a real b!tch to break loose later on. Personally, I wouldn't do it, and none of my coolant hoses leak.  :alan2cents:

1 Wild R/T

I've had quite a few fail.... I don't waste my time anymore.... I drive my cars, no show poodles here... I've gone back to real hose clamps.... Wurth Zebra Clamps... I like that the edges roll away from the hose so they don't cut into the hose...


anlauto

I've seen rusty ones break, but not new ones :huh:  Has anybody tried heat shrink tube clamps ? I just installed some today on a 71 Cuda I'm working on....
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

1 Wild R/T

Heat shrink clamps are great, by now maybe they have come down in price... When I used them on a project they were about $12 per clamp & obviously you can only use them once...

RUNCHARGER

New OEM style are junk. I always used them until my 472 dumped all it's coolant when one slid off. Screw clamp only for me now. Not worth losing an engine or car over.
Sheldon

Chryco Psycho

The one thing I like about factory clamps is that they self tighten & never get loose if the hose becomes softer & reduces diameter .
I would use the new flat spring clamps over the original Corbin type though .


kawahonda

been running with OE style clamps for about a year so far, no problems.

The screw-type makes me want to barf to be honest. Pretty common to see really spectacular detailed jobs with screw-type clamps that just ruin it all. Just my opinion being a perfectionist though.

I'll keep a look out on the ones I have though. Weird that they are reported to be breaking...seems strange. The ones that CP linked to would be the next best option int he looks department.

I will never put a screw-type hardware-store band on my motor. Spent awhile to remove the ones that were on there when I first got my survivor.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

MoparLeo

When is the last time that you heard of a USA or German made, worm type clamp break ? What kind of clamp would you use on a high pressure Fuel Injection line ?? Corbin and any s similar type clamp are used for one reason only by the factory on standard production cars.....cheap and easy to put on. Nobody has to make sure that they were tightened properly. Not because they are/were the best clamp you can use. Pick your clamp...it's your money. Don't like how they look ?? really??Close the hood and have the peace of mind that you won't have another spring clamp snap in 2. JMO
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

GoodysGotaCuda

Quote from: anlauto on July 08, 2020, 07:20:23 PM
I've seen rusty ones break, but not new ones :huh:  Has anybody tried heat shrink tube clamps ? I just installed some today on a 71 Cuda I'm working on....

Yes, they work great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

bennydodge

I run factory Corbin clamps on mine and I run it hard. It doesn't leak at all. One thing I do is coat the inside of the hose with shellac before installation. I let it sit at least 24 hours before filling with coolant. Use the Corbin clamp pliers as well for easy clamp maneuvering.  :alan2cents:
1973 Challenger 340
2015 Challenger R/T classic B5, wife's car
2010 Dodge 3500 dually
2016 Hellcat Challenger Redline Red A8


anlauto

Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on July 09, 2020, 11:30:14 AM
Quote from: anlauto on July 08, 2020, 07:20:23 PM
I've seen rusty ones break, but not new ones :huh:  Has anybody tried heat shrink tube clamps ? I just installed some today on a 71 Cuda I'm working on....

Yes, they work great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's good to hear....they seem real solid, and yes fairly expensive. :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

kawahonda

Quote from: MoparLeo on July 08, 2020, 11:44:23 PM
When is the last time that you heard of a USA or German made, worm type clamp break ? What kind of clamp would you use on a high pressure Fuel Injection line ?? Corbin and any s similar type clamp are used for one reason only by the factory on standard production cars.....cheap and easy to put on. Nobody has to make sure that they were tightened properly. Not because they are/were the best clamp you can use. Pick your clamp...it's your money. Don't like how they look ?? really??Close the hood and have the peace of mind that you won't have another spring clamp snap in 2. JMO

Will disagree. The fundamentals of a spring type clip make a hell of a lot more engineering sense. Why? Because their job is to auto tighten 100% of the time across all temperature conditions without you being there with a screwdriver.

Yes, I think screw-type clamps look absolutely hideous. It's a pet peeve of mine to see a beautiful restoration job, with zinc-hardware store clamps that have flailing bands littered everywhere.

OE clips are harder to use/install, but I would easily deal with some installation pain vs having the looks of a screw-band hardware clamps across my engine bay. Just my opinion.

Agreed with Benny...if you don't like the OE style, at least use the Corbin style. They at least hide themselves well and are still have the advantages of being a spring clamp. Set it, and forget it.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

bennydodge

Corbin clamps are OE style..
1973 Challenger 340
2015 Challenger R/T classic B5, wife's car
2010 Dodge 3500 dually
2016 Hellcat Challenger Redline Red A8

kawahonda

For some reason, I was thinking of these!

Still better than the hardware store screw stuff.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66