Do I have the correct Torque Shaft ? (edited)

[Racer57]

I saw a need to rewrite my question somewhat so you guys would understand wtf I was asking.


Cuda 383 5 speed TR3550 Tremec Quicktime bellhousing


I have determined that I do not have enough travel between pedal and clutch fork. In order for clutch to work, the throw-out bearing requires slight pressure on the diaphragm pressure plate with foot off pedal and engine off.  When I back off adjustment to allow 1/4" gap, then tranny can not be put into gear from neutral with engine running. No grinding, just will not go. Engine off, shifts fine.

Clutch pedal is inline with brake pedal. Assume they are originals
Rod from pedal to torque shaft appears to be same that Brewers sells. 15" overall length. They sell a rod that's 16 1/2" for B body, but not sure if too long.
Torque shaft arm with the extra holes that attaches to clutch fork linkage is 3 3/4" long.  Measured from tube to locating pin.
Other arm is 3 1/2" that holds pedal rod.
Gap between them is 6 1/2"
Overall length is 9"
The arm with holes was bent by someone slightly to allow clearance to Quicktime bell housing.
Does this look like the proper torque shaft ? Or have any suggestions ?

[Racer57]

I sent Brewers pretty much the same thing I posted above. They replied "Putting a longer clutch rod on the car will not increase the amount of movement in the clutch linkage. Z-bar looks correct.  The pivot bracket in the bellhousing is prone to bending....this could be part of the problem."

The pivot bracket broke a few months ago and was replaced. So, I'm not sure wtf to do now. 

[Brads70]

I'm not an expert by any means but I did install a quick time bell housing in a buddy's car with a  Chevy LS swap with a T56 behind it. Found the bell housing was not square and had to have it Blanchard ground square in order for proper alignment specs. It was warped from welding when it was made. Frustrating as you shouldn't have to do that, especially for what you pay for the parts.
If your not getting enough stroke I would guess it could only be something off with the fork and/or torque shaft. As thats all that determines stroke ratio? If I understand correctly your trying to use a stock torque shaft with an aftermarket clutch fork? Most of this aftermarket stuff is designed to use chevy parts. Is your fork the same as stock Mopar ratio wise? 
Mind you these days with aftermarket parts quality suspect everything and assume nothing.  Like is pivot ball in correct position and correct length,  bell housing square and aligned to crank center line. Trust assume nothing with non stock parts I've found.

[dodj]

Z bar seems fine?
I would spend some time examining the fork and pivot bracket. You have non factory bell housing and clutch..so may have to be creative with the fork and pivot.
I have a Centreforce diaphragm clutch with everything else stock parts and it works fine. Maybe if you have an aftermarket bell, it has some subtle differences?

[Mr Cuda]

I think I was the one who mentioned lengthening a bellcrank arm to get more travel. But it would have to be the lower arm.
Making the top longer would lessen travel.
Brewers is correct, a longer rod will do nothing.
A diaphram pressure plate isn't geared for a finger height adjustment.
I measured a bellcrank. Including the tube diameter, ones 5" and the other 4 3/4.
I would still check every pivot point for 90° in and out.
Any angle is sucking up travel.
We might need to measure your clutch fork.

[RJChallenger]

Im no expert either,but isnt 1/4" or.250 gap between the fingers of the pressure plate and thro out bearing a little big?

[Racer57]

Im no expert either,but isnt 1/4" or.250 gap between the fingers of the pressure plate and thro out bearing a little big?

I had either read that or was told a long time ago. In my post to Brewers I had said that and they said nothing about it. 
Now in my research, I'm seeing people say that the bearing should be making contact with engine off and foot off pedal.

So, if I adjust the throw out enough for smooth shifting and clutch does not slip, is the throw out going to last ?

[Mr Cuda]

There has to be "free pedal" where the throwout bearing is not spinning, or it will not last.
 Free pedal is sonething you know when you see it, but more difficult with the diaphram clutch.
 The over center spring under the dash is what you adjust for, but it gets removed wuth a diaphram.
 I think you are stuck having to modify departure travel, unless your fork is wrong.

(I apologize for the misspellings, but I deactived my auto correct, and predictive text after one too many words got changed,  and sent out.)

[Racer57]

There has to be "free pedal" where the throwout bearing is not spinning, or it will not last.
 Free pedal is sonething you know when you see it, but more difficult with the diaphram clutch.
 The over center spring under the dash is what you adjust for, but it gets removed wuth a diaphram.
 I think you are stuck having to modify departure travel, unless your fork is wrong.

Fork is "supposed" to be the correct one. 

I suspect that a new B&B and hydraulic clutch is in my future. I'm getting very tired of messing with this SOB !! 

[Racer57]

Called SST and ordered hyd system and tranny. My existing tranny is older model and decided not to gamble and got new.