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Does Anyone Have the Dimensions for 8-3/4 Axle Shafts? Bizarre Issues...

Started by 7E-Bodies, September 07, 2022, 04:18:34 PM

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7E-Bodies

I'm in the reassembly phase of my 70 8-3/4 differential. I've bought everything from Dr. Diff, including the "Sure-Trac II" gear yet I'm using the original axle shafts as they were in great shape. Original rear end was long gone, by the way. Everything slides together well at the center chunk and the axles are each touching the thrust buttons. The outer races of the new Timken tapered bearings are gliding right into the axle housing, no problem.
When I attempt to tighten down the adjuster side (after the left side is assembled and torqued to 35#), I begin to lose adjustability by the time the right side is just starting to snug. It'd definitely bend the adjuster flange/plate if I tightened it to 35# (don't ask how I know). There's just not enough center play at the thrust button and no way to get the .008-.018 required. The thrust button shifts side to side as expected (roughly 3/8") and the thrust button assembly appears to be right at it's expected 1.5". It's almost as if I need a thicker metal gasket at each axle housing flange to bring the brake assemblies outward a tad. Flange to flange, I measure 56-7/16". I'm about out of ideas.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7E-Bodies

He's working with me, but email only. Trying to cover all the bases as opposed to email Ping-Pong so I can help him help me.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


Brads70

Sounds like you need to either machine some off the end of the axle or the " thrust button" axle would be easiest?

Mr Cuda

Just to be clear,  you got the rear end housing recently and the axles separately?
E body and c body axles are very close to the same length,  the difference is the thickness of the axle flange.  Measure your axle flange.   Looking for  .380 or .460

7E-Bodies

1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

7E-Bodies

@Brads70 its literally as if I were to double up on the beaded metal gaskets between the drum brake housing plates and the axle housing flanges, I'd be there to set my gap. Those metal gaskets are only 0.012" so I don't need much, yet I'm aware that'd be asking for a future weep.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


Mr Cuda

So if I'm reading correctly,  you have the original axles ( which you do because they have the correct  axle flange thickness) but have a replacement housing. 
I have not gone and measured a c body to e body housing width yet, or looked online for a measurement,  but that is  where I'd start

7E-Bodies

@Mr Cuda I have what I think are the original axles and housing with a new replacement differential. The previous owner had a 3.91 SG in it which I sold since I want the 3.23. I'm finding the right axle to be roughly 0.050" longer than the left and it has some scarring on the splined end, which I'd guess would indicate I'm not the first to encounter this. The scarring feels like it's about 0.020 deep (and guess how much room I'm fighting to obtain!). 
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

Mr Cuda

I am at a loss. I had to Google the sure trac ll to get a picture.
I was thinking maybe the inside splines were not machined deep enough, or the lack of bevel on the axles was holding it up.
It looks like the carrier is set up for a thrust button,  like the factory clutch unit, so the axle should not bottom in the carrier.
At least we established the you don't have a housing/axle mismatch. That happens as they are close.