How to solve heat soaking for hard re-starts

[kawahonda]

Pretty darn sure I have the famous heat-soaking issue. Pulling it out of the garage in the morning or starting it up after it sits for awhile, wonderful!

Firing it up in multiple stop-errands, painful! And a little embarrassing. I want to say to onlookers "don't worry, my car runs good!"

It's been 90F here. I know the engine compartment on these things get pretty warm!

What are some things that I can do to to resolve this. I've read about getting spacers. I've read of some using heat shields. Do you do both? Are some better than others? Anything available locally that's worth getting?

One of these days it's going to happen with a low battery...then that would be the pits!

[7212Mopar]

Fuel injection or pop the hood after stopping the car?

[dave73]

I had be same thing. Added a 1" phenolic spacer and solved about 75% of the issues. Just added a Holley heat shield and wrapping the fuel lines to hopefully solve the rest.

[1 Wild R/T]

I had be same thing. Added a 1" phenolic spacer and solved about 75% of the issues. Just added a Holley heat shield and wrapping the fuel lines to hopefully solve the rest.

We have more heat here & worse fuel... Phenolic Spacer made virtually no difference... The holley carb heat shield & blocking the heat to the manifold did help....  But still far from great.....

FiTech solved it 100%, Stone cold turn the key run, let the system run it's pre-start cycle, hit the key & it fires & idles... Drop it in gear & go, just like a modern car.... Yes it cost a little but I have no complaints....

[Cuda Cody]

It's your timing.  Trust me, back your timing off a bit and it will fire right up when it's hot on re-starts.    

What timing (initial and advanced) are you running?

[kawahonda]

Timed it yesterday. 33 dwell. Initial at -5. Have not checked advance timing. Runs super good and no more sputtering.

[Cudakiller70]

I changed to an electric fuel pump with bypass regulator and return line to tank. Added a cool carb spacer. No problems any more. Key on wait a couple of seconds for fuel to pump up and hit the key.
Thinking Fitech or Holley in future.

[Cuda Cody]

Check your timing around 3,000 RPM or the "all in".  I'll bet that's your issue. 

[kawahonda]

Thanks Cody. 35 max, right?

You're thinking I may be over that. I'll check. It's either reducing the initial timing, or reducing the mechanical advance. Which is better? The one that gives me more idle vacuum, I assume.

[cuda hunter]

electric fuel pump has usually worked for me.  but I'm up in the mountains.  Dry heat and not heat like most of you guys.

Fi tech is my next item.

[303 Mopar]

I battled this for a couple years, same scenario as you.  Added return line, electric pump, cool carb shield and still had problems about 25-30% of the time.  I think the crap fuel and 5300' altitude with 90+ temps is a bad combo.  I finally caved and went with a Sniper.  No problems any more.

[kawahonda]

Yea. 2700 elevation here. I didn't check "total" timing which is what Cuda suggested. I'm a nerd that likes to do that thing, so I will check. But I can tell you the dwell is spot on, and the initial timing is per FSM specs.

Following Charlie's advice, on hot "restarts', do not touch the gas pedal. I'm going to continue testing that notion, but so far, it seems to be the best advice. It's a touch-touch thing.

Check out my other thread. It's related. Man...having a blast tuning this engine!

Growing a greybeard too....

[RUNCHARGER]

Electric pump works for me, I don't enjoy the noise though.

[Cuda Cody]

I'm guessing you're going to see an big improvement if you back it off a couple degrees from the max timing you're at now.  Let me know what you find it's set at at 3,000 to 3,500 rpm or whenever it stops and are you running the vacuum advance?.  My guess is you're at 36+ and I've seen that stop cars from starting easy when they are hot.

Thanks Cody. 35 max, right?

You're thinking I may be over that. I'll check. It's either reducing the initial timing, or reducing the mechanical advance. Which is better? The one that gives me more idle vacuum, I assume.

[Chryco Psycho]

Coolcarb makes very thin spacer plates that can dramatically drop heat / temperature of the carb , reasonable cost also