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Issue with Phosphate Treatment of Engine Hardware

Started by 7E-Bodies, April 27, 2022, 09:52:14 AM

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7E-Bodies

I watched the video by @Cuda Cody on treating my black phosphate hardware parts, bought the same solution and was amazed at the results. Going by the cashy but valuable MMC fasteners manual, I made sure of which items required phosphate finish and that they were correctly marked. The results were quite impressive. That was several weeks back. Yesterday I noticed that some (though not all) were showing a frosting of rust/oxidation. Did I do something wrong? Has anyone dealt with this or perhaps came up with a remedy?
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

anlauto

I've never found a home kit that had any longevity :console: ...did you clear coat them or oil them after the process ? I know Eastwood's kit used to require a clear coat after.... I believe :thinking:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

7E-Bodies

Excellent points. I did indeed oil them, but didn't exactly leave them dripping. A fair film I'd say. Wondering if the factory ones frosted over this quickly.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


chris NOS

you can treat them with Boeshield T9 , it works good to protect bare aluminium,magnesium ect ,...

7212Mopar

I found the RPM Rust Prevention Magic works really good to keep rust away.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

moparroy

Phosphate treatment is porous - it will not stop rust. Oil on top provides a sealant but oil won't last esp under heat. Hence a heat resistant clear coat would be better. I'll give RPM a try - that sounds like an interesting option. I have used rust check but don't have any in service experience with it yet - don't expect it to last long term without repeat treatment of some kind.

Gary AAR

I second the use of RPM (Rust Prevention Magic).  I do the phosphate finish, dry the parts, and then apply the RPM.  No signs of any rust, with some of the hardware having been treated well over a year ago.


BIGSHCLUNK

I had the same experience w EASTWOOD'S kit years ago. Things just didn't hold up long at all.Shoulda coated them after... but what did I know.........  :thinking:

7212Mopar

RPM is available on Amazon in 4oz or 8oz can. I used it in suspension parts, bolts, axle flanges, fuel and brake lines etc. no rust.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

anlauto

Quote from: BIGSHCLUNK on April 28, 2022, 07:51:32 AM
I had the same experience w EASTWOOD'S kit years ago. Things just didn't hold up long at all.Shoulda coated them after... but what did I know.........  :thinking:

I hit the same level of disappointment  :pullinghair:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Mrbill426

Time will tell of course but I used POR15 Metal Ready (now Metal Prep I guess) and used their instructions; so far so good.  I think it depends too on the type and make-up of the metal and how it is "preped" for the treatment.