machine shops

[B5fourspeed]

When you have a motor build by a machine shop how to you know they did everything you paid for.Sometimes you hear horror stories about some builds.How to you know if a motor was balanced?Was the cam degreed?Was it line honed?How long does it take to do these things?What is the best way to protect yourself?Any horror stories out there?

[anlauto]

Instead of a "machine shop" maybe look for a reputable engine builder which will give you a fully assembled engine, that he's not afraid to do a couple of dyno pulls on...That way you can be sure everything is done correctly 

[chargerdon]

Great question.   

I chose a machine shop that was close to me (4 miles) and had online a good reputation.   I have both very good feelings and bad feelings about the shop!! 

The good is that the engine is running great ! With the exception of Oil pressure which is a little low.   But, that is partly my fault.   He used both main and connecting rod bearings that are high quality high performance applications so have a slightly higher tolerance ...hence lower oil pressure.   Still shows 65-70 PSI when cold, but when fully warmed up, it drops to as low as 15 at idle in drive.  On the road runs at about 20 psi per 1,000 rpm... so its ok.  I simply could have chosen to use a High Volume Pump instead on a std pump.   Was talked out of it because of believing that with high pressure pump i would have run the risk of "draining the pan".   Hogwash...   I drive the car on the street with only occasional wide open throttle runs, and keep the revs to 6000 or less.    Highly doubtful that a high volume pump (which puts out about 20% more volume) would ever do that for very brief 6,000 max rpm ...especially with the high performance bearings installed.   Had i realized what bearing he was using i would have put in Melling High Volume Pump.   

The good is that the price for the cleaning, boring, all new oil filter gasket and frost plugs on the block, including the main front and rear seals, new crankshaft, new rods and pistons (all stroker...360/408), new cam bearings, block deck honing, head decking and replacement of an intake and exhast valves.   Assembly of the block and rotating assembly, , etc all came to about $2800.   Most would say that is a great price.   This included the balancing of the crankshaft (this cost around $300).    It could have been a couple hundred lower if i had bought the Scat balanced stroker kit, instead of allowing the machine shop to buy the components separately and then balancing.  ...Oh well..   Still a good price. 

I then finished building the engine using my existing "J" heads which already had the larger 2.02 valves and hardened valve seats.   I put into the engine the Lunati Vodoo cam i already had, and degreed it myself and used the "stock" position on the Crank gear.   I degreed it and it worked out as advertised on the cam card.   So piece of mind but wasnt necessary.   I used new Lunati double springs, and installed a "273" adjustable rockers with new pushrods and new std volume water pump.   

Reused the Edlebrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold and 600 CFM Edlebrock Carb.   

Engine runs great and with an A518 overdrive i installed along with 3.23 Sure Grip and 14" wheels it turns about 2800-2900 RPM in 3rd gear at 60 MPH, and with the overdrive and locking TC turns about 1500 RPM at 60 mph.   

I tried it once on the strip and ran a 9.15 1/8 mile...   Not enough tire traction at launch to do better and it was on an 88 degree night high humidity night on a track 400 ft about sea level.   So with better tires and air temp, i'm sure i could get under 9 second.   

Now the bad...   First after getting the engine finished, and seeing the lower than i would have liked oil pressure, I drove down to the shop to show the machine shop owner who did the work.   His response.. "Well what do you expect from a Mopar"!!!!!.  Put in 20W-50 instead of the 10W-40.   That pissed me off.     Then the even worse...1 month later he went out of business... saying that in todays world you cant make a decent living.    Oh well !!

[usraptor]

If you have a local Mopar club ask for suggestions for a good machine shop/engine builder.  If you don't have a Mopar club ask some local car clubs.  FB is a good source for both.  Also, if you have a restoration or body shop that specializes in Mopars or old muscle cars ask them who they have do their engine work.  The machine shop/engine builder I used was recommended by the shop that painted my 'Cuda.  They also do custom builds as well as restorations for 50/60 and 70 era muscle cars.  The shop has built two engines for me now I was very pleased with the results.     Good luck.