Question about engines on hot days. Is this normal?

[72 Challenger]

So I had a chance to look at he car. Got underneath it and the only evidence I could find of coolant anywhere was some spitting from the overflow hose. No weeping out of the snout of the pump.

There is definately no spring in the lower hose. I can colapse it fairly easily.

I can't accurately measure the pump pulley. However I have a spare used waterpump that came off the car it has numbers 30823-1-T3. It looks like a proper mopar pump with the many round holes around the snout. On the car I have a GMB pump, aluminum, those round holes are swapped out for fins. I cant see any numbers that align to a part number there is a CR or GR 07 where the part number would normally be but I can't find a corresponding part number or model. Since the owner went through the process of changing the pump, i'd assume this one is a highoutput GMP pump. The price differenct is negligible.

[Chryco Psycho]

What color are the spark plugs are you running lean , is the timing advanced enough ?

[72 Challenger]

I will check this after work. Had to fix the wife's car last night, she had a dead purge solenoid.

[HP2]

So I had a chance to look at he car. Got underneath it and the only evidence I could find of coolant anywhere was some spitting from the overflow hose. No weeping out of the snout of the pump.

There is definately no spring in the lower hose. I can colapse it fairly easily.

I can't accurately measure the pump pulley. However I have a spare used waterpump that came off the car it has numbers 30823-1-T3. It looks like a proper mopar pump with the many round holes around the snout. On the car I have a GMB pump, aluminum, those round holes are swapped out for fins. I cant see any numbers that align to a part number there is a CR or GR 07 where the part number would normally be but I can't find a corresponding part number or model. Since the owner went through the process of changing the pump, i'd assume this one is a highoutput GMP pump. The price differenct is negligible.

I wouldn't be too worried about pulley diameters since the previous owner was so obsessed with originality.

It used to be the high flow a/c pumps had the round holes on the housing and the ribbed units were standard non-a/c flow. Not sure if this holds true any more since by this point so many have been rebuilt and the aftermarket has been involved for many decades.  There used to be a  high flow mod kit that was basically a disc the diameter of the impeller and a couple rivets to attach it. Doing this modification could be a very low to no cost change if you were inclined to try it.

Lacking the lower hose spring hose could be a contributor. You don't need one in the upper hose. If you want a freebie exercise, put the spring in the lower hose and see if that makes a difference.

I'd also follow up with CP about checking spark plug color and timing. That is another low/no cost effort.

[72 Challenger]

I took a look at all the plugs they all look pretty tan. This was the lightest, cyl 1. The difference was pretty minor.

The spark plug number was a Champion RN 12YC.

Working on getting the timing number.

[Chryco Psycho]

not too bad , could be a bit lean but not enough to really cause excessive heat

[Ebody Edgar]

the engine needs the MP Viscous Fan Package. Nothing else works like that set up. A friend of mine has a B body that runs high speed road course laps on a 22 inch radiator and the temp is 200-210 no matter what. 195 t stat

40% antifreeze 60% water with a bottle of coolant conditioner

go to the home store and get an analog barbecue temp gage that goes 0-300 degrees F and install it next to the intake preferably under the air breather. 
Now see how hot it really is under the hood.  It's cooking i bet.
240 is hot....

You also may have issues with the tuning settings as well   fuel mixture, timing, timing curve

16lb rad cap for coolant overflow systems and a catch tank

Oil catcher in the pcv

[71383bee]

I took a look at all the plugs they all look pretty tan. This was the lightest, cyl 1. The difference was pretty minor.

The spark plug number was a Champion RN 12YC.

Working on getting the timing number.

Agree with a lot posted.  this is an FYI though regarding the plugs.

Based on the timing tips from FBO it appears that the timing indicator is lower on the ground strap indicating it has too much timing.  It should be in the center of the curve of the strap. 

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

[72 Challenger]

I took a look at all the plugs they all look pretty tan. This was the lightest, cyl 1. The difference was pretty minor.

The spark plug number was a Champion RN 12YC.

Working on getting the timing number.

Agree with a lot posted.  this is an FYI though regarding the plugs.

Based on the timing tips from FBO it appears that the timing indicator is lower on the ground strap indicating it has too much timing.  It should be in the center of the curve of the strap. 

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

So I have never heard this before, can anyone else confirm?

[71383bee]

I was a doubter myself till I met and talked to don at FBO. The dude knows his stuff!  Give him a call and send him a picture of the plug...he'll probably tell you what can you have and what octane your running just from reading the plug! 

Seriously though too much advance could be an issue. Just something to check.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[72 Challenger]

I don't deny it. I have long been told that looking at a spark plug with a bare eye is a bit of a joke at best, but never really understood what they meant.

I got caught in the rain yesterday (First time in 43 years this car saw rain, I was PISSED). Waited it out at a gas station. Idling for 6 or 7 minutes the temp of the car went down. So I am fairly confident my temp problem is a coolant flow issue. But with all this extra covid time on my hands I might look into this sparkplug reading bit.