Random part floating around in axle housing...?

[392 Cuda]

I pulled my axles today (by hand, somehow), and saw something down the axle housing, sitting next to the gears. It was just sitting there, i took it out with a magnet.

I couldn't find anything like it in the service manual (74 cuda, 8 3/4).

Does anyone know what this would be?

[Chryco Psycho]

Ok so you have a clutch type sure grip , that is the thrust pin for setting the end play on the axles , it stuck to the end of the axle as you pulled it out , in most cases you will have to drop the center section out to put it back into place unfortunatly

[Burdar]

Originally your car would have had a cone style sure grip that used a thrust "sleeve" and not a pin.  So, someone has been inside that center section before...or the entire thing has been replaced with an earlier unit.

[js27]

Yes these came in the early pumpkins-66-67--the 742 cases. I had plenty of experience with these little buggers when I raced my 67 GTX. Almost every time you pull the axle out it comes with it due to the suction and the thick axle grease. There is a small thin roll pin that is supposed to keep the 2 halves together--didn't work to well. Check to be sure the other 1/2 is not rolling around in there also. Once back in the axle will hold them in place.
Fun times..
JS27

[392 Cuda]

I appreciate the help!

It does have the 9 and a 2881488 stamped into the side, so the housing seems correct. I suppose someone could have dropped in an older gear set?

Will I have to remove the axles again in addition to the center section to get it back in? I already installed the new Moser axles with green bearings and would hate to damage them.

[Rich G.]

You have to pull the axles to remove the center section. You won't be removing the bearings so you won't damage them at all.

[RUNCHARGER]

Biggest worry now is the little retaining pin. The other cup on the other side most likely stayed in and probably the little pin stayed in as well. What you don't want though is the little pin laying in the bottom and maybe churning up and getting between the ring and pinion.

[Chryco Psycho]

You do not need the thrust pins if you run green brgs but why run green brgs the factory tapered roller are far superior , typical lifespan for a tapered roller is 150,000 miles , green brgs will last maybe 10,000 miles ?
The clutch type sure grip is far superior to the cone type cone type are junk by comparison 

[7212Mopar]

Or upgrade to an Eaton or Dr Diff SureTrac that will last a very long time. No more clutch pack replacement and far stronger than the factory units.

[kawahonda]

The dr diff Eatons could actually outlast our cars.

[1 Wild R/T]

The dr diff Eatons could actually outlast our cars.

Mighty bold statement for a part with no proven history....

The clutch style carrier is a good piece, you already own it I wouldn't be in any hurry to change it....

FWIW I agree with Chryco Psycho about the bearings & the pins.... But you have what you have so I would find the other pin & I'd save both of them so when the green bearings fail you can go back to the OE style tapered bearings...

[7212Mopar]

I think the Eaton Torsen style True Trac had been on market for some time. Dr Diff SureTrac is the same design with two additional gear set but is fairly new. There are a few folks with B and A bodies using it and with good reviews. I only have 20 miles on mine but so far so good. The reproduction casing is also beefier than the stock housing.  I also read that the Dana clutch pack is far stronger than the one in the 8-3/4.

[1 Wild R/T]

Dr Diff sells a redesigned tru-trac because the original design on 8.75 has been known to develop a rattle....  Which means the original given time is likely going to fail....   

As far as it being Dr Diff's design.....  Call me a skeptic...

As far as "I also read that the Dana clutch pack is far stronger than the one in the 8-3/4."  Don't know where you heard that but the clutch components are nearly the same....   The cone style is junk but the clutch style is pretty bullet proof....

[7212Mopar]

One of the old post I read and why I went with Cass's newer design instead of the Eaton.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=108729.0

I think I read the Dana clutch pack being stronger from either Moparts or the B bodies site. It seems that a lot of those guys are hardcore racers and they break things regularly.

[392 Cuda]

I finally decided to pull the rear end today.
- It looks like 3.55 Sure Grip in 489 and the diff was mfg in May '68. I can't find anything on the model number 26354X, but I believe it is a Dana Power-Lok diff (#2881487)
- I now see where the thrust pin pieces are missing in the center (1 side found before, other side and pin lost during previous owner rebuild).
- I'll probably keep the green bearings for now since they came on the Moser axles, so I assume I don't need the thrust pins for now.

Is this suitable for a 500hp application?
- I'm planning to a 3.23 gear and 1350 u-joint for my 6.4L/8-speed combo - then order an aluminum driveshaft with a CV joint in front
- I see some notes above for Eaton and Dr. Diff Sure Trac. Is it worth the investment if everything looks good on this one?
- Should I open up the diff and check the clutches, or leave that well enough alone?

As always, I appreciate the help!