Sealed Power Regular Lifters VS Their High Rev For A 340-6Pack?

[Jim AAR]

I'm getting some new lifters for my 340 and am looking at the Sealed Power HT2011 ($5.91 Cdn each from Rock Auto)  or HT2011R ($10.52Cdn each from Rock Auto) was wondering if it is worth paying more for the HT2011R?

Or is there better lifters out there for a 340 6pack?

HT2011 specs:

Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Unsurpassed quality that you can trust
Uses leading-edge materials
State-of-the-art manufacturing
Exacting tolerances
Meets or exceeds OEM specifications
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 3004643, 3160304, 3172303, 3180454, 3189883, 3190810, 3190901, 3222276, 3577092, 3614320, 3614321, 387095C1, 4049338, 446571C1, 4740269, 53010574AB, 8122929, J3189883, J3222276


HT2011R specs:
Speed-Pro® delivers the power you need and the value and quality that you deserve. Whether you are running at the track, chasing trophies on the strip, or just cruising down the road, count on Speed-Pro® to provide the best value in HP engine components.

Features & Benefits:
High strength steel retainer (precisely limits plunger travel to perform at high rpm operation)
Eliminates frequent lash adjustments
Ensures dependable performance and superior service life
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): HT976R

[Cuda Cody]

Can't help much since I've only used Johnson lifters.  But I can say I'm really happy with the Johnson lifters.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
But I would spend for the extra if you are buying Sealed Power

[MOPAR MITCH]

Hi Jim... The only difference is the retaining clip... the R has a stronger clip to prevent the common thin wire from falling out under severe duty usage..  cheap insurance to go with the R version.

I used to work for Federal-Mogul (including Sealed Power/Speed Pro).

Johnson Lifters company is the primary mfgr for nearly all USA/domestic valve lifters... its a science and Johnson is the best... supplying nearly everyone under private label names (including FM/Sealed Power/Speed Pro... and the list goes on and on).

[Jim AAR]

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it....

[Mrbill426]

@MOPAR MITCH if you buy Sealed Power lifters you are really buying re-boxed Johnson lifters?

Hi Jim... The only difference is the retaining clip... the R has a stronger clip to prevent the common thin wire from falling out under severe duty usage..  cheap insurance to go with the R version.

I used to work for Federal-Mogul (including Sealed Power/Speed Pro).

Johnson Lifters company is the primary mfgr for nearly all USA/domestic valve lifters... its a science and Johnson is the best... supplying nearly everyone under private label names (including FM/Sealed Power/Speed Pro... and the list goes on and on).

[Mrbill426]

 

[MOPAR MITCH]

MrBill426 -- Unless some other new mass-manufacturer has entered into the market, specifically for hydraulic flat tappets, which are a declining item -- the only manufacturer that I'm aware of has remained to be Johnson Lifters (made-in-America).   Get the R-version for better assurance that has the heavy-duty retaining clip.

FYI -- back around year 2000, Johnson Lifters briefly their business down, until their own employees bought it soon afterwards...  becoming an employee-owned private business.  At that time, the supply to the industry of flat hydraulic lifters became dead -- and everyone was scrambling for lifters... no one could produce them as Johnson Lifter had the tooling to produce them.  After almost one year of down-time, they began mass-producing them again... and the industry is happy again (i.e.: distributors, as well as name-brand major distributors).   Thanks to Johnson Lifters getting back into business, you can get flat hydraulic lifters again... just as good as they way they've always been... and made-in-America!

[Mrbill426]

@MOPAR MITCH thank you for that classification! 
I had read or saw somewhere that there have been issues with flat tappets not having the correct grind to the base causing them to fail and wipe out cam lobes; any incite on that??

MrBill426 -- Unless some other new mass-manufacturer has entered into the market, specifically for hydraulic flat tappets, which are a declining item -- the only manufacturer that I'm aware of has remained to be Johnson Lifters (made-in-America).   Get the R-version for better assurance that has the heavy-duty retaining clip.

FYI -- back around year 2000, Johnson Lifters briefly their business down, until their own employees bought it soon afterwards...  becoming an employee-owned private business.  At that time, the supply to the industry of flat hydraulic lifters became dead -- and everyone was scrambling for lifters... no one could produce them as Johnson Lifter had the tooling to produce them.  After almost one year of down-time, they began mass-producing them again... and the industry is happy again (i.e.: distributors, as well as name-brand major distributors).   Thanks to Johnson Lifters getting back into business, you can get flat hydraulic lifters again... just as good as they way they've always been... and made-in-America!

[floorit426]

I asked the same question to Bob Karakashian (Mr. SixPack cams). The cam came with 2011, and he said the "non-R" lifters are not the ones I would want, for the cam I purchased. This was an email conversation, so I don't know if he meant, not necessary, or that the "R" types, would be the wrong application. BTW, these are Johnson lifters, but have the same 2011 designation. So, I assume that the sealed power ones are repackaged Johnson lifters, as stated above.

[TGGodfrey]

I have never used Sealer power for anything other than stock and that was years ago.  Recently I used their pistons in my 340 sixpack because they were factory shaped and i didn't want to wait over a month for a custom made piston from diamond or ross.  I can honestly say I don't think i will ever use them again.  Poor quality control.  The oil ring drain-back is slotted (for street use) and the backside still have metal shavings/burrs that needed to be removed.  They claimed to be a matched set.... two were clearly out of weight by 3-4 grams.  The Valve reliefs left a sharp edge that should have been cleaned up during the milling process. 

If their pistons are this bad.... I wouldn't try their lifters in a T/A block.

Terry

[MOPAR MITCH]

MrBill426 -- regarding the grind, I'm unaware of such claims... but who knows?   The manufacturing is held with ISO and other standards and the final inspections are like a science.   The biggest problem with flat tappets is the initial break-in and using required hi-zinc oils for the long-run.  If in doubt, return the lifters to the manufacturer for their inspection/analysis -- be insistent to get them to inspect and analyze... be patient... will always take longer than you'd like.

So many people/hot rodders still don't use the proper oil for their flat tappet cams/lifters... just a matter of time for the cams, in particular, to prematurely wear away at the lobes.

[ek3]

the face of a lifter and the lobes are  ground at an angle to each other that also  centers the cam in their bores. [ no cam walk] roller cams require a thrust button because they are flat cut.  the flat tappet  lifters must spin or they will cut themselves down in a hurry. when car mfg.'s started using roller cams , they also reduced the zinc and all the other additives in oil because it wasn't needed in hi amounts with the roller systems. the biggest reason for the reduction was pollution/environmental. the lifter bores need to be in good shape also . you can be sure everything is working by observing the running engine without a valve cover and you will see the push rods turn ! while you are at this , don't  forget  you should not use any kind of synthetic oil to break it in...  I would suggest you wipe the cyl. bores -very- clean and spray them and the pistons/rings with only wd 40. if its honed correctly , they will seat in a very  few minutes . 

[Mrbill426]

Is it correct that the base of the lifter is not supposed to be perfectly "flat" but have a slight "crown"?

the face of a lifter and the lobes are  ground at an angle to each other that also  centers the cam in their bores. [ no cam walk] roller cams require a thrust button because they are flat cut.  the flat tappet  lifters must spin or they will cut themselves down in a hurry. when car mfg.'s started using roller cams , they also reduced the zinc and all the other additives in oil because it wasn't needed in hi amounts with the roller systems. the biggest reason for the reduction was pollution/environmental. the lifter bores need to be in good shape also . you can be sure everything is working by observing the running engine without a valve cover and you will see the push rods turn ! while you are at this , don't  forget  you should not use any kind of synthetic oil to break it in...  I would suggest you wipe the cyl. bores -very- clean and spray them and the pistons/rings with only wd 40. if its honed correctly , they will seat in a very  few minutes .

[ek3]

absolutely ! and the cam is tapered too ! look in the lifter bores and the cam lobes -center- will be offset from center of the lifter bore !!. but not on roller cams! it keeps the cam in the block and spins the lifter constantly !!