**Spark Plug** & Oil Filter recommendations for a 340 6 Barrel AAR ???

[70Challenger440]

This will be the first oil change and tune-up on a recently purchased 1970 AAR Cuda 340 6 BBL being spring is finally here. All the info out there is piecemeal on spark plugs and oil filters.  For the spark plugs I am more interested in not fouling than the utmost in performance. The car has a points ignition and the factory exhaust manifolds.  I see info on the web about 90 degree oil filter adapters which has me confused. Did this come from the factory on the AAR or did owners add it?


What are the best new easily available (close to stock spec) spark plugs and oil filter for a 340-6bbl AAR? Please let me know not only the brand but especially the part#'s of what I need too.  Thanks.

[Dakota]

For the oil filter, I've been using this one linked below based on multiple recommendations from people on this site.   I have a 340 (not a T/A) with a 90 degree angle adapter and stock exhaust manifolds.

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/oil-filter-wix-brand-oe-style/

[JH27N0B]

I have a T/A that I have owned since my misspent youth and did a OEM restoration on.  The oil filters are mounted horizontal on them on the passenger side at the rear of the block.  I'm not familiar with 90° adapters, but maybe something to use to install a filter vertically?
I've been using Wix myself for many years, I had used Fram but when I got active on the internet and on car forums 20+ years ago, I learned how poor quality they are and now avoid them.
The NAPA oil filters are made by WIX also, so that is another place to get them.  Baldwin is highly rated if you can find them, for another choice.
Or get one of the Repro Mopar ones Herbs sells if you want to spend alot of money.  They aren't even repros of the assembly line installed filters, they are repros of the dealer service parts, so probably not worth the $35 or whatever they sell for unless you really want something that says Mopar on your car.
I changed my oil on the T/A for the first time after the restoration a few years ago and really had a time getting at the filter, I had to use a really long extension with a filter wrench to get it.  I don't recall having any trouble all the times I changed the oil in the car in days of old, so not sure what happened there.  I don't hardly drive the car, but still should put a fresh fill of Joe Gibbs ("Driven") high zinc oil in it soon, so it will be interesting to see if I have trouble with the filter again the next time.
There is a shorter version of the WIX 51515 filter, I think its 51085, that might be easier to install.
In my youth when I drove the T/A a lot, I had trouble with fouling.  I used a hotter range plug to help with that problem. Stock was N9Y so I'd use N10Y.  Those are Champion part numbers, I am not sure that Champions are well thought of.  I think I switched to Bosch or Motorcraft back then, but don't recall for sure, so I'll let others opine on what are the best spark plug brands to use today.
But N9Y was stock, try whatever brand is recommended's equivalent. And if you have fouling issues try the next hotter plug.  Of course with a hotter plug, you get more chance of dieseling when you shut down.  Leaning may be a better thing to try to help with fouling.  It's always a balancing act....
The joy of carburetors and point ignitions!

[70Challenger440]

I have a T/A that I have owned since my misspent youth and did a OEM restoration on.  The oil filters are mounted horizontal on them on the passenger side at the rear of the block.  I'm not familiar with 90° adapters, but maybe something to use to install a filter vertically?

Mine has what is seen in the picture connecting the oil filter . I am still trying to find out if it is factory or  was added to my AAR . Also a  local shop just told me  the WIX equivalent is 51068 to the filter currently on there. Maybe I should use that but no one  ever seems to mention that Wix# on forums.

[JH27N0B]

That looks like how mine is from recalling off the top of my head.  I'm not home so can't go out to my garage to peek at it now.
Doesn't look too hard to get at, from the top.  I still don't recall why I was having trouble last time I changed it.  The filter on it then was the one installed when the engine was rebuilt and before the engine was painted.  I could be it was somewhat frozen in place from having paint on it and won't be difficult to remove next time I do it.
I bought a Magnum with a 360 not long ago, and the filter on it is in the same area, however it is installed directly onto the engine block, so that adapter must be what orients the filter horizontal on the 340. Mine was always like that, from what I bought the T/A in the late 70s so almost certainly stock.  I had a little trouble with the filter the first time I did an oil change on the Magnum. All the cars and trucks I've owned for the last couple decades you remove and install the filter from underneath the car.  I was trying to get at the filter from under the Magnum and having a tough time, finally got it turning and got it off, just to find I couldn't get the filter through any spaces or gaps under the car to dispose of it, or get a new filter in to try to install.  After getting frustrated and having oil from the old filter leaking all over, I got off the ground and checked out the filter area from the topside under the hood.  There was plenty of room there, I just needed to remove and install the filter from above not below. Duhhh!  Often a learning curve involved and sometimes old habits that must be broken.

[JH27N0B]

I just remembered I had an picture of my engine and trans right before installation in the car saved on my computer from when it was being restored at the shop.  You can see the oil filter installed with the adapter.

[Floyd]

That 90 degree oil filter set up is factory correct.

[Bpret]

90* is factory and I would use the wix filter unless you are looking for factory mopar filter.

[Hood]

Although my 340 is a 1972 vintage and not a six pack I use a Motorcraft FL-300. I needed a stubbier oil filter to clear my headers or go with a 90° adapter.
During my 51 years of ownership and performing every oil change (50 total) I have used the following oil filters:

MOTORCRAFT:  FL-300 (since 2012 to current)
BOSCH:  3402
WIX:  51068 and 51085
AC:  PF-13
FRAM:  PH-43 (last time used 2005)

[70Challenger440]

Thanks to all the responses. I think i now have all I need  about the oil filter choices.

But there was only one person responding  about spark plugs choices. It would be great if I could now get more spark plug suggestions, which was the other part of my question of this thread. (brands and especially the part#s please).

[Hood]

I'm using Champion RN9YC
Never had any issues with them.
R= resistor
C= copper core center

[cudaragtop]

Never anything but Champion Copper Plus RC12YC in my 340
Napa Gold 1515 or Wix 51515 oil filters.

[Duodec]

Just a comment on the oil filter/adapter situation; I had been looking for the repro (and apparently no longer made) 340 high performance exhaust manifolds used 1968-70, and the passenger side manifold description in a number of places said that it required the use of the 90 degree filter adapter.  The center-dump 318/360 and later 340 passenger side manifolds do not require the adapter.