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Static timing for startup

Started by Mrbill426, October 01, 2021, 10:14:44 AM

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Mrbill426

Getting closer to a first start up and break in on a fresh engine and of course want it to fire up immediately.  Have done it before (years ago) but this is my first try with an electronic ignition; it's factory Mopar.  I used to static time points ignitions just by rotating the distributor with power on until the points opened and the spark jumped to the #1 plug.  Is it done the exact same way with a Mopar electronic with reluctor and pickup or is there more to it?  Any precautions?   


Chryco Psycho

Set the crank about 20* advanced [36* is 2 3.8 inches] & line up the reluctor & pickup , it will be close enough to fire up & adjust ti while running

Mrbill426

@Chryco Psycho thanks  :bigthumb:.  So I take it that it wouldn't function like opening points do and fire the coil as the reluctor tip passed the pickup?  Are indicating that a stock distributor has about 16 degrees total advance built in?
Is there a check I can do to be sure the system will make spark?   I have checked the coil and pickup for resistance and they are fine but is there a way to check the ECU ahead of time?  I only have a VOM.

Much appreciated




Quote from: Chryco Psycho on October 02, 2021, 09:51:58 PM
Set the crank about 20* advanced [36* is 2 3.8 inches] & line up the reluctor & pickup , it will be close enough to fire up & adjust ti while running


Cudajason

Just make sure you have it set up to fire on the right cylinder.

When I swapped my cam out 2 years ago I killed the cam because I had the wrong cylinder set up to fire.

I had it all set up at TDC on the no 1 hole, based on the the dots being lined up on the timing chain, I set the distributor set to fire number 1....and it just would not fire (I have some video I could share but it brings back to many painful memories).

Turns out the no 1 cylinder was at TDC for the intake, not compression stroke, so it should have been number 7 (I think) firing, not number 1.  I caught it the second go around (with chryco's help) and bam she fired right up!

Good luck!

Jason
1974 Cuda. 360 / A500 OD.  Yes its pink, no its not my wife's car!  Yes I drive it.


DeathProofCuda

Quote from: Mrbill426 on October 01, 2021, 10:14:44 AM
Getting closer to a first start up and break in on a fresh engine and of course want it to fire up immediately.  Have done it before (years ago) but this is my first try with an electronic ignition; it's factory Mopar.  I used to static time points ignitions just by rotating the distributor with power on until the points opened and the spark jumped to the #1 plug.  Is it done the exact same way with a Mopar electronic with reluctor and pickup or is there more to it?  Any precautions?

Personally, I have never used your method, but I like the idea and I don't see why it wouldn't work for both points and electronic ignition.

To check for spark without turning over the engine, you can also wire up the distributor without having it installed in the engine, then turn on power and manually spin the distributor shaft while checking a plug for spark.  For points ignition, you need to ground the distributor body, but that may not be necessary for electronic ignition since the ignition "trigger" is provided by grounding of the ECU.  But don't quote me on that.  Good luck and report back with your findings. :popcorn:

Filthy Filbert

Quote from: Cudajason on October 05, 2021, 05:19:50 AM
Just make sure you have it set up to fire on the right cylinder.

When I swapped my cam out 2 years ago I killed the cam because I had the wrong cylinder set up to fire.

I had it all set up at TDC on the no 1 hole, based on the the dots being lined up on the timing chain, I set the distributor set to fire number 1....and it just would not fire (I have some video I could share but it brings back to many painful memories).

Turns out the no 1 cylinder was at TDC for the intake, not compression stroke, so it should have been number 7 (I think) firing, not number 1.  I caught it the second go around (with chryco's help) and bam she fired right up!

Good luck!

Jason


You were probably 180 out, firing #6 instead of #1.   

Cam dot at 6 o'clock and crank dot at 12 o'clock so they are closest together and easiest to see if properly aligned is actually TDC firing #6, not #1.  Both dots at 12 o'clock is firing #1.

20 degrees would be a bit much I would think, but just depends on how you want to do it.   I'm setting up a 383 for first fire soon, and I rotated it until I confirmed that it was at TDC #1 firing--then backed it off about 90 degrees, and came back forward until the damper indicated 10 degrees BTDC.   Then set the distributor to point at #1 on the cap. 

I know that this is retarded, and as soon as the motor fires we will adjust timing by ear to get it to where it's happy quickly in order to perform the cam break in.   Then afterwards we'll use a vacuum gauge to tune idle and initial timing.  Once initial is set, we'll get the timing light out to be sure that we're not exceeding 38-ish total timing with RPM activated mechanical advance

Chryco Psycho



MoparLeo

As with most questions here for factory info, go to your service manual. It is there most of the time.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...