Thinking out loud, fit an Indy dual plane fit under a R/T hood?

[Ornamental]

Does anyone have real world experience with fitting an Indy Dual Plane under a R/T hood?
This is for a 1970 Challenger R/T, 512 cui based on a 440 RB block, Holley XP Ultra, Indy heads with Max Wedge ports which severely limits my intake choices.
Lokar throttle and kickdown cables.

I've seen in a thread on Moparts that a Edelbrock Performer RPM will fit under a R/T hood. where mojavered stated "I am running an RPM Performer on a 440 with a Proform carb in a 71 Chally with the Rallye hood. The air cleaner has about a 1.5" drop base on it. I have only enough room for a hex nut to hold down the air filter top or I touch the bottom of the hood and I do not have any insulation under there."

Using the measurements on the Hughes Engines website, I've found that the Indy Dual plane carb height is 5.55", while an Edelbrock Performer RPM carb height is 5.35". I've got solid engine mounts, no polyurethane or rubber, so not a lot of movement which otherwise could be a problem.
I'm thinking about using a 1.75" drop base with a 16" diameter, which should negate the extra 0.20" height on the Indy dual plane intake.
Key word is "should".
Then there's the question about how close can the air filter top get to the carb before the air flow is messed up and cause the engine to struggle with breathing, even with a K&N X-Stream top.
Maybe raise the bulge on the R/T hood a little, I've seen pictures of that, looked a bit odd to be honest, but at least there were apparently clearance under it.


If you wonder why:
The current hood is a lift-off fiberglass Six-Pak hood which has plenty of clearance for the current Indy single plane intake and air filter.
However, I can't use this hood. Due to laws and regulations where I live, it's illegal to have hood pins. This was made crystal clear to me by a representative of our equivalent of the DMV the last time I had the pleasure of discussing old car modifications with a government official.
The exception is if the hood pins can be proven to be factory installed and I haven't got either the fender tag or the broadcast sheet. So steel hood it is then.

The heads and the single plane intake is what the car had installed when I bought it and I'd like to avoid the hassle of replacing the entire top end if possible.
I'd also like to avoid the rabbit hole of shimming the K-frame for clearance as that leads to other complications.
The old Max Wedge crossram would fit, but I'd rather have a Indy dual plane if practically possible under a steel hood.
Bolt on scoops looks tacky to me, so I'd rather not do that.

[chargerdon]

Cool question.   I have a 74 Challenger with the base hood.   Engine is a 360LA with an Edlebrock Rpm Air Gap Intake Manifold and an Edlebrock 1406 600 CFM carb.   I couldn't shut the hood without hitting the air cleaner which was a Mopar Performance Air cleaner...the type that you have a base plate, then the air filter and a flat cap 13" round top. 

In order to get it to close, i had to first research and find a filter that was 1 inch shorter.  That worked but lost performance as not enough air could pass thru.  Found one that was .3 inches shorter. 

Then i worked on the base plate and cut it up and welded until it was a drop plate and i got another 1/2 inch of clearance.   i got an extra inch of not as tall...but then while the hood would shut, it was rubbing the underside of the hood.   So, next cut out some of the extra ribbing under the hood, which helped, but it was still rubbing.   Figuring i needed another 1/4 of an inch, i sut 1/4 inch steel shims and dropped the K frame one side at a time while supporting the other and installed them between the K frame and where it attaches to the rails.   That then worked... 

So recapping, .3 inch shorter filter body, cut some ribbing from under hood, 1/2 in drop base on carb, and finally extra 1/4 inch between the k frame and main frame.