What about solid lifter on unknown heads sitting on 440

[Eblood]

Hi guys, i ve just drove the car back to Home, im a brand New owner of a challenger rt 70 440. This 440 have been modified ans have Indy heads with a custom camshaft. Could you tell me if the way to adjust solid lifter IS thé same for all heads or i ve to known spec for this Indy heads. IS There a topic on how to adjust them ? Never work on solid lifters.. thank you

[Cuda Cody]

I'm sure @Chryco Psycho  will be able to help but wanted to say congratulations on your new car!     Have any photos?

[HP_Cuda]

Look up EOIC, although there are several methods to do so. 

Try this on for size:
https://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/how-to-set-and-adjust-valve-lash-like-a-pro/

Here is another one:
https://www.centuryperformance.com/valve-adjustment-procedure.html

The most important part of setting lash is that you must ensure that the valve you are working on is on the base circle of the cam. This means the lifter is on no part of the lobe.

Hope that helps.

[Eblood]

Thank you so much, so it doesnt matter on which heads we are working on ?
On stock 440 magnum, that was hydro lifter or mechanic lifter ?

[1 Wild R/T]

EOIC  Stands for Exhaust Opening/Intake Closing... Which is probably the best method for adjusting valves it assures the valve your adjusting is on the base circle....

You can follow the firing order & adjust by offset but to me thats a PITA... With EOIC you watch the valves, you don't need to mark/watch the damper or anything else...

Personally when adjusting I start with #1 then go straight back doing #3, #5 & #7... Then go to the other side & check/adjust #2, #4, #6 & #8...

Basic idea is you watch the Exhaust valve of the cylinder your working on...  While turning the engine over (with a bar or the starter doesn't matter) as soon as the exhaust valve starts to open stop & check/adjust that intake valve.....  Now continue to rotate the engine watching the exhaust open fully then close & next the Intake valve will open fully & start to close.... Watch the valve close, Stop just before or as it closes....  Now you check/adjust the Exhaust valve....

Often the suggested valve clearance is a "Hot" spec.... Which is fine accept the whole time your running valves the engine temperature is changing.... 
So the whole time your pulling valve covers/removing any needed accessories/brake booster etc  the engine is cooling...

I prefer to adjust one cylinder (the easiest most accessible) hot.... Then let the engine cool fully to room temperature & measure that cylinder & use that as my baseline adjustment for the whole engine...


Now the next question is what to set the valve clearance to.....The cam manufacturers will provide a suggested clearance....  But many variables will effect that....  like Aluminum Heads...  Which typically grow allot more than Iron heads when heat cycled.... 

If your spec is say .014 with iron heads & block by going to aluminum heads that number is typically .006 lower so try starting at .008

There's lots more to this but the last thing I'm going to touch on is "Feel"...   How much effort it takes to slide the feeler gauge between the valve tip & the rocker...  I've seen lots of guys that just slide it & figure thats it...  Well the difference between an easy slide & a firm slide is often .003+ change.... Now if there's a slight angle on the feeler it could be as much as .008 or more....     For people who aren't comfortable I strongly suggest buying whats called a Go/No Go gauge...

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80524-22-Blade-Go-No-Go/dp/B002KS5GBS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541356312&sr=8-5&keywords=go%2Fno+go+gauge

The point of this gauge is there is a step ground into it, the tip is .002 thinner than the rest of the blade... The tip should slide in with moderate to firm pressure, the rest of the blade should not....

[HP_Cuda]

Hydraulic were stock, didn't you say you were doing solid?

[Chryco Psycho]

Wild basically covered it ,
the pattern is the same Hyd or Solid , most Mopar hyd are not adjustable but you can run adjustable rockers with hyd cams but instead of a feeler gauge gap on a solid you have a preload with hyd