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Raw or ceramic Headers?

Started by tparker, February 03, 2021, 02:39:17 PM

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tparker

What are the benifits of ceramic over raw headers? I assume perhaps heat control and corrosion? Is it a big difference? Worth the money? Would an alternative be to wrap the raw headers? Just looking to save a few bucks were I can as it all adds up. Is it worth penny pinching here or not?

FYI, looking at Doug's Headers

shawge

 :alan2cents: Ceramic coating all the way. Cuts down on heat and corrosion. Don't get me wrong it is still hot but not 8 cherry red stovepipes hot. Header paint or wraps will not last long, then rust will set in.

Check local powder coating places in your area, most often they also do ceramic coatings.
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
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Topcat

Heat reduction in engine compartment will save soft parts from drying out and going bad.

Thus the extra cost for Ceramic coating will offset over time; parts that normally would've been replaced without it.


dodj

I would go for ceramic just for looks. If you are concerned about reducing under hood heat, a wrap, I believe, is more effective.
They say ceramic headers reduce under hood heat, but I can't really tell the difference?  :dunno:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Chryco Psycho

The second time you buy raw headers you will wish you had spent the extra for ceramic !

tparker

Thanks all. Seems pretty universal to go for the ceramic.

7212Mopar

Make sure it is coated inside and outside of the tube. Inside coating is a thermal black coating. Outside is the shiny ceramic coating. Polish outside is extra. At least for TTI. It is all worth it. Painted headers will rust in no time.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket


tparker

Interesting, I didn't think the inside needed to be coated. I'll check. Thanks for the tidbit

MOPAR MITCH

I have an old set of ceramic coated Hooker Comps... #5115?... that I bought and installed onto my 340 Challenger in year 1986.
although they've hit the ground occasionally (car is lowered), they still show very well in the engine compartment... no rust at all!  I would definitely only get ceramic coated headers again sometime in the future.

CudaA39

I would never buy raw headers unless I had a coater lined up prior to install.  Then again, not all coatings or coaters are the same.  I had a local powder coated strip and recover my Hooker units and they looked flawless after several seasons.  Not a place to skimp IMO
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2015 Tri-State Stock/Superstock Champion
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anlauto

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on February 03, 2021, 06:11:13 PM
The second time you buy raw headers you will wish you had spent the extra for ceramic !

:haha: :haha: :haha: Sound advice right there  :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Topcat

I actually thought about opening a Museum:

It would be called "Road Rash Header Museum"

Featuring Headers throughout the decades and the damage occurred bottoming out.   :crazytalk:

nsmall

TTI headers on my 340 in my opinion it doesn't get too hot in the car or I don't notice any difference versus the stock manifold I used to run.   They still look good after a couple thousand miles but who knows what they'll look like way down the road. 

cudaragtop

TTi Thermal Lined and Polished Ceramic Coated!  :bradsthumb:

Can't say much about them yet, except that they fit and look awesome.

- Randy D. 1970 'Cuda 340 4-Speed Convertible
69 Barracuda G3 Hemi/8HP70 Resto-Mod Project Album: https://goo.gl/photos/XjsAsx4LDo7psimU8