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Anyone Own a 2012 Ram 5.7?

Started by 7E-Bodies, June 03, 2021, 03:54:00 PM

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7E-Bodies

I bought my 4x4 2012 ram 4 door new in 2012 and have loved it ever since. 85,000 miles on it and not so much as a door ding (knock wood). I'm gonna do my own spark plug changeout this time around and wondered what is best to go with. Also, there's no miss and it runs great. However, I was told by the dealer when I bought it that the plugs would slowly die without my noticing it and fuel mileage would dip. The set I'm running now has about 50k on them and it seems to be going through gas quicker.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

JH27N0B

I did my plugs in my 5.7 Challenger a few years ago and ordered Mopar plugs.  My recollection is that the Mopar plugs are NGK.  The Challenger is fairly easy to get at the plugs, though changing 16 is a pain.
Isn't the 5.7 recessed in the Ram due to the cab forward design?  If so the rear plugs will be a pain to get at.
I recently bought a new 6.4 2500 and dread the day the plugs need replaced, looks like a nightmare to get at the back ones. I think I'll pay to have it done! But that's a long way off....
Btw I recently heard somewhere that NGK has anti seize built into the threads, I used a lot when I changed my Challenger's and probably shouldn't have!

7E-Bodies

yeah, @JH27N0B the back plugs appear to be the worst. Being a fully certified YouTube mechanic, I've watched a couple videos. One recommended and linked to a $10 spark plug socket that is built upon an extension (3/8 drive) and has a magnetic core. I sprung and got it. Super nice tool. The video provider also recommended the NGK as did several posters on a Ram forum, so I'd say you're correct. Most places quote north of $500 for the job. I figure if it takes me 4 hours, that's over $100/hour after factoring in the plugs cost.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


JH27N0B

I'd certainly try it myself before paying that quoted price!
The 2500 is so tall that even though I'm over 6' tall, I'd need a stepladder to work under the hood.
I think it's plugs are rated for 100K miles and I have 800 on it so far, so it's a long way from plugs...
My trusty 2014 Dart just passed 100K miles recently and I bought some NGKs from Rock Auto for its first plug change.  I should get off my butt and do it, 4 plugs and right out in the open so no excuses accepted!

wes473

Great to hear you're liking your ram, I have a 2012 Ram hemi crew cab that I plan on milking the plugs untill it has has real issues. Mileage has more to do with my lead foot than anything. Kinda sounds like the dealer wants to change your plugs early, I'd follow the service interval and milk it from there, I've heard ppl getting 150k out of plugs untill they have misfires or noticeable issues. I also plan on holding out to do the exhaust manifold studs....

76orangewagon

#5
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on June 03, 2021, 05:36:56 PM
yeah, @JH27N0B the back plugs appear to be the worst. Being a fully certified YouTube mechanic, I've watched a couple videos. One recommended and linked to a $10 spark plug socket that is built upon an extension (3/8 drive) and has a magnetic core. I sprung and got it. Super nice tool. The video provider also recommended the NGK as did several posters on a Ram forum, so I'd say you're correct. Most places quote north of $500 for the job. I figure if it takes me 4 hours, that's over $100/hour after factoring in the plugs cost.
$500 for 16 plug change sounds better than my $685 quote to change 6 plugs in my pentastar 3.6L  Charger...of course that included the upper intake gaskets since you have to remove the upper half to to get to the 3 plugs on the drivers side. I also watched a couple YouTube videos and had the job done in 90 minutes and only $112.00 in parts.

mopar jack

got an 03 ram with 5.7 and let plugs go till 65k miles. Service manual recommends 35k. I recommend you pull coils and wires and spray rust blaster down the holes and let it sit a few hours. while your waiting pull the driver side tire and remove the plastic inner fender so you can access the rear plugs. You will need an assortment of socket extensions and swivels and patience.