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Any Woodworker Out There?

Started by floorit426, August 06, 2019, 07:21:25 PM

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floorit426

Hi,

I'm doing a small project, which is reproducing a sign that was hung from my house, in the twenties. It hangs from a post and is 12" x 24", and an inch thick. I need to find a wood that is resistant to warping and takes paint well. Any suggestions, would be appreciated.

Thanks

Chryco Psycho

Cedar stands up well , may be better choices tho

Topcat

I'm thinking Teak wood?   :dunno:

Beautiful but it needs re staining once every few years.

Painted..I dunno.

Can't wait to see your sign made.   :cheers:


Chryco Psycho

Teak is similar to Cedar & stands up very well , but does need oiling / upkeep

cuda hunter

cedar is rot resistant.  making it a good candidate.  However it's very soft and porous. A 1" slab will most likely warp. 

NO matter what you get it will rot eventually.  I would personally use a hardwood.  Less bugs will effect it.  less water will soak into hardwood.  up keep is everything. 

"All riches begin as a state of mind and you have complete control of your mind"  -- B. Lee

7E-Bodies

You definitely want to go to a reputable Woodworker's supply shop and get a good oil based stain.  Oil oil oil.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

06Daytona

If you have access to it I'd recommend pvc panel. I've seen it up to 3/4 inch down here and I've started using it for all my home projects. It's waterproof, bug proof, sun proof and paintable. You can router the edges and work it pretty much the same as wood.


cuda hunter

For exterior stains, oil has been the standard for a long time.  Don't be afraid of the water based exterior stains.  Sherwin williams has some excellent water based exterior solid color stains.  Basically the Wax in oil base is what keeps things protected for long periods of time.  I had a real hard time switching from oil based to water based stains. 

  If your painting it, water will eventually get behind the paint no matter what you do.  So then priming is the most important thing for the upkeep.  Don't sand the board perfectly smooth before you prime it.  I would suggest a "cut" coat of primer first so it's not as thick and do a second coat of primer as soon as the first coat tack's.  This should stop the moisture from getting under the paint. 

Another thing I like about water based paints is that they are not poisonous to humans when we soak our skin in it. 

Are you recessing the words or are you painting them on? 

"All riches begin as a state of mind and you have complete control of your mind"  -- B. Lee

floorit426

Here, is the sign that I want to replicate. It was painted 100%, way back when. I can't find anyone, local who can do the lettering, so I'm going to try it, myself. The last few letters, are faded, so I'm going to have to wing it.

Dakota

If you decide to use cedar, I'd suggest that you use the stainless steel version of any nails or screws that touch it.  Most others fasteners will eventually turn black and stain the wood.

Daveh

I live in South Florida and all of the exterior soffit's and facia's are all cedar and has held up great for years.  I would use cedar. 


Topcat

Quote from: floorit426 on August 07, 2019, 08:21:57 AM
Here, is the sign that I want to replicate. It was painted 100%, way back when. I can't find anyone, local who can do the lettering, so I'm going to try it, myself. The last few letters, are faded, so I'm going to have to wing it.

Got a blacklight?

Worth trying to see if it picks up the hidden edges