E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
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#21
What about a little JB Weld?
Otherwise replace with a good used part (ebay, Tony's, parts wanted or swap)
I had Glen-ray redo my heater core and evaporator at the same time. Not cheap, but I didn't want to have worry about pulling it back out amd repalacing a second time.
Otherwise replace with a good used part (ebay, Tony's, parts wanted or swap)
I had Glen-ray redo my heater core and evaporator at the same time. Not cheap, but I didn't want to have worry about pulling it back out amd repalacing a second time.
#22
Car Shows, Events, and Races (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: Car show disaster
Last post by cuda hunter - May 27, 2024, 03:31:39 PMI'm sure you can find a fender on short order.
I am constantly looking for a nice set of 70's and always come up with 2-4's.
.
I am constantly looking for a nice set of 70's and always come up with 2-4's.
.
#23
Car Shows, Events, and Races (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: Car show disaster
Last post by cuda hunter - May 27, 2024, 03:27:53 PMThat was quick.
#24
2 part epoxy would be more than adequate
#25
Engine, Transmission & Rear End / Re: K Member Identification
Last post by 6bblgt - May 27, 2024, 03:22:13 PMnot sure why there is an extra digit? does it have a skid plate or coin welded to it?
2780 = Monday October 5, 1970 - would've been for 1971 production
2780 = Monday October 5, 1970 - would've been for 1971 production
#26
New Members Introductions (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: new to site but not mopar
Last post by cuda hunter - May 27, 2024, 03:16:08 PMGreat looking cars!
I don't see the cars from the original posts.
Before you disappear for 4 years again, can you post up some more pictures of your rides?
Maybe share some details? fender tags? Just more info about your ebodies. and others of course.
Welcome back.
I don't see the cars from the original posts.
Before you disappear for 4 years again, can you post up some more pictures of your rides?
Maybe share some details? fender tags? Just more info about your ebodies. and others of course.
Welcome back.
#27
Engine, Transmission & Rear End / Re: Transmission Identificaton
Last post by 6bblgt - May 27, 2024, 03:09:20 PMthe 3410667 = 383 2bbl 727 transmission
#28
M
Engine, Transmission & Rear End / Re: Antifreeze recommendations
Last post by moreparts - May 27, 2024, 03:06:50 PMQuote from: Dmod1974 on May 27, 2024, 01:40:36 PMColor doesn't matter since there is so much overlap of the same color with totally different formulas that it is meaningless now. Case in point, traditional "green" is NOT good for more than 2 years, but the market is flooded with green(ish) long life universal coolants that are actually Dexcool derived formulas like the one above.
The one above is not an OAT coolant. It's good ole fashioned IAT.
#29
My current subproject is rebuilding the A/C box from my '71 Challenger. Its been partly disassembled for years, now I'm taking it down to components to clean and rebuild pending decision on a heater core.
The defrost door has a small tab welded to it that the vacuum actuator connects to; that tab broke off (not sure but I might have done it during disassembly). The tab is flat L shape with the long back spot welded to the door and the bottom of the L broke off.
Is there any vendor specializing in (presumably) used parts for A/C on these cars that might have this door in working shape?
I've got no welding capability and won't until we move due to HOA and no space. The Q&D option I can see would be to grind off the remaining part of the tab from the defrost door, make a new one from spare metal and rivet it into place.
Anyone think that one of the handheld spot welders used to weld rechargeable batteries onto strips for solar battery banks would be strong enough for this application? The tab bracket is pretty light metal and I could get away with an unobtrusive tool like that.
Second question. Although the original heater core is still good I'm not going to risk using it unless it gets rebuilt (Glen Ray?). I have a third party one I bought from OReilly about 10 years ago, made in mexico (at least its not chinese). Is that third party unit likely to be an exact fit and no problems, and decent lifetime?
Thanks!
The defrost door has a small tab welded to it that the vacuum actuator connects to; that tab broke off (not sure but I might have done it during disassembly). The tab is flat L shape with the long back spot welded to the door and the bottom of the L broke off.
Is there any vendor specializing in (presumably) used parts for A/C on these cars that might have this door in working shape?
I've got no welding capability and won't until we move due to HOA and no space. The Q&D option I can see would be to grind off the remaining part of the tab from the defrost door, make a new one from spare metal and rivet it into place.
Anyone think that one of the handheld spot welders used to weld rechargeable batteries onto strips for solar battery banks would be strong enough for this application? The tab bracket is pretty light metal and I could get away with an unobtrusive tool like that.
Second question. Although the original heater core is still good I'm not going to risk using it unless it gets rebuilt (Glen Ray?). I have a third party one I bought from OReilly about 10 years ago, made in mexico (at least its not chinese). Is that third party unit likely to be an exact fit and no problems, and decent lifetime?
Thanks!
#30
D
Engine, Transmission & Rear End / Re: Antifreeze recommendations
Last post by Dmod1974 - May 27, 2024, 01:40:36 PMColor doesn't matter since there is so much overlap of the same color with totally different formulas that it is meaningless now. Case in point, traditional "green" is NOT good for more than 2 years, but the market is flooded with green(ish) long life universal coolants that are actually Dexcool derived formulas like the one above. Peak, Prestone, and virtually all house brand universal coolants are Dexclones.
Assuming you are stockish with iron block, brass radiator, etc. the requirements won't be too picky. TRUE green like John Deere or similar, the universal coolants, and HD diesel coolants will all work fine.
Dexcool got a bad rap when it came out decades ago, but that was because GM did a crappy job specing gasket materials and designing the cooling systems on those older engines. Fastforward to today and there are probably millions of vehicles running out there with Dexcool derived coolant. GM (Dexcool), Ford (Specialty Orange), some Euro OEM's, and anybody using universal coolants are actually running Dexcool and probably don't know it.
Some of the other newer chemistries may not be ideal since they are formulated for modern engines that are all or mostly aluminum with very little copper, brass, and iron in them.
Freeze protection doesn't change as coolant ages unless you dilute it with water, but the corrosion protection does deplete and it will become acidic. It can look perfectly fine and still be eating away at your cooling system. Don't wait until it looks like crap to change it. There are several different test strips that you could use, or just change it at the recommended intervals - earlier won't hurt either.
Assuming you are stockish with iron block, brass radiator, etc. the requirements won't be too picky. TRUE green like John Deere or similar, the universal coolants, and HD diesel coolants will all work fine.
Dexcool got a bad rap when it came out decades ago, but that was because GM did a crappy job specing gasket materials and designing the cooling systems on those older engines. Fastforward to today and there are probably millions of vehicles running out there with Dexcool derived coolant. GM (Dexcool), Ford (Specialty Orange), some Euro OEM's, and anybody using universal coolants are actually running Dexcool and probably don't know it.
Some of the other newer chemistries may not be ideal since they are formulated for modern engines that are all or mostly aluminum with very little copper, brass, and iron in them.
Freeze protection doesn't change as coolant ages unless you dilute it with water, but the corrosion protection does deplete and it will become acidic. It can look perfectly fine and still be eating away at your cooling system. Don't wait until it looks like crap to change it. There are several different test strips that you could use, or just change it at the recommended intervals - earlier won't hurt either.