We are getting ready to replace the vinyl top on my wife's cuda. There are some bubbles that will need to be addressed but my question is for those who have installed a top themselves. What is the best tool to remove the vinyl top quarter trim? What material is best and what glue have you used? We will also replace the windshield at the same time. Any other tips or tricks you may have? Pictures are good too!
:popcorn:
:popcorn: Yes, this will be interesting.
Quote from: superdave on April 25, 2018, 05:10:53 PM
:popcorn: Yes, this will be interesting.
Sorry guys.. what am I missing?
I will offer what I can. I replaced the black vinyl top on my '70 Challenger and it turned out quite well. Kinda like doing a paint job---clean, clean clean. Do all the body work required--make it as smooth as possible. I laid down three coats of reflective aluminum paint. To help with heat reflection and protect the roofs metal from future corrosion. Buy a quality replacement top (I don't know who has the best ones these days). Remove the gutter trim, windshield trim and back glass trim. Lay the top face down and mark the center line (front to rear). Center line must be from the seams in the top--NOT the cut edges. Mark a center line (front to rear) on the roof. Try to find a local auto upholstery shop and purchase the correct glue for a vinyl top. The glue I used was a translucent green and is to be applied with a spray gun. If possible, lay the top out in the sun to let it warm up--not too hot--just warm enough to be flexible. Have some help ready--buddies, etc. Lay the top on the roof and align the center marks. Double check the distance from the seam in the top to the edge of the roof---both sides---should be equal. Make sure you have masked off the rest of the car to keep the spray glue controlled. Tape the top front and rear at the center lines to hold it to the roof. Lay masking on one half of the top making sure that all the top is protected then fold the opposite side of the vinyl onto the masking. Apply the spray glue per instructions to the roof and the exposed underside of the vinyl top. Lift the vinyl top and hold it above the roofs surface and slowly lower the vinyl into place starting in the middle and working towards the edges. Pull GENTLY on the vinyl while lowering it into place. DO NOT pull on the vinyl hard---this can distort the vinyl and your well measured seams will be crooked. Work the vinyl down side to side and front to rear. If you get a wrinkle/bubble just lift the vinyl and rework that area. When you are half done---take a break---have a cold one with your buddies. You now know more than you did before so just get the other side done. I would suggest having a couple of paint rollers with sort nap pads to help get the vinyl down tight. Check your work often to avoid bad mistakes. Let the glue set--per instructions. Then trim the excess vinyl with single edge razor blades. Be careful and go slow---no need to ruin the job now. Lastly, I would suggest a dry run of the folding the vinyl, masking, spraying and laying of the vinyl---this can show you where you may have issues. GOOD VENTILATION!!!!
I bought an SE with a boogered up top. I redid the rear window plug install and tried to salvage the top that the previous guy messed up, I made two runs at it however I ended up with the material too wide at the base of the rear under the window. Later on I discovered the reason was the top was glued too far back to start with.
Round two, we called in a professional who had done them since the 70's, Yeah, he did a great job, it was off to one side about an inch and a half and he seamed under the rear window because of too much material.
So we ordered another new top and I spent the time scraping the glue off the roof for the third time. This time Buddy got it on right. One thing I did learn from the pro is that I was trying to use heat to shrink the top and that doesn't work. He was applying a bit of heat and pulling it down tight, so he was stretching it.
After watching the other guy I would definitely try one that did not have material under the rear window (B-body) and then I might try an E-body again.
Other guys have done it so maybe you can too. One thing I will suggest is to carefully make sure you have it in the correct position front to back.
(I love the original shots with the white top, that is how it was brought to me).
Pretty sure I would still own this car if it wasn't for the roof hassle. By the time it was good, I was pretty much done with it.
Ha, this was the next post I was thinking of creating. There are several videos on line that show the basic process. I suspect that this is one of those things that you become an "expert" at after you do one or two. By that I mean you will learn all the mistakes the first time through. LOL. It seems like it should be easier than the headliner. Mine came out OK but there are a few wrinkles that I hope time and heat will sort out. However, I would be more critical of them on the roof.
I'm gonna give it a shot and worse case I'm out a hundred and something along with a weekend or two (one to remove it if I screwed up). My last roof rusted through after a few years of neglect while I was in the army. New roof and a new vinyl top in a couple months
Good luck. Let us know how it goes and some pics along the way.
Thanks for the real-world advice guys. I have seen the Legendary video and it is not bad, but I was still looking for more info. The correct top for this car is white with a white interior but until we restore it back to that, we want to keep it black, so this will be a bit of a "practice run". We have done a headliner and replaced glass before so we are atleast familiar with those 2 areas! lol I will get a top and glass ordered and will post how it went. I appreciate it!
I just had mine done (70 'cuda) and it cost $400. I considered it money well spent and the job was done correctly.
Quote from: sunger on April 26, 2018, 06:00:51 AM
I just had mine done (70 'cuda) and it cost $400. I considered it money well spent and the job was done correctly.
No doubt that was an easy decision. Best price I have found around here is $1,000. I would still rather do it myself and learn for next time. :burnout:
We did the 3/4 top on the Pixie. We tried to price it out locally, but it was ridiculously expensive. Of course it being one week before Carlisle didn't make it any easier to find someone to do it. :haha: It was fairly straight forward. Find the center of both the car and the top. Clamp the vinyl down on one side. Start in the middle by spraying the adhesive. We did about a foot at a time and rolled the top over the adhesive smoothing out any bubbles and repeated till we go to the side of the car. Then we started on the other side. It wasn't difficult at all...just a little scary cause its one of those things that is expensive to "fix" if you mess it up. But heck, if me and Pixie can do it...anyone can!
Just means we're eagerly waiting to hear some of the replies too. We both are interested in what people will have to say so we grab some popcorn and wait to learn.
Quote from: 82firebird on April 25, 2018, 05:22:58 PM
Quote from: superdave on April 25, 2018, 05:10:53 PM
:popcorn: Yes, this will be interesting.
Sorry guys.. what am I missing?
watching
----o00o--'(_)'--o00o----
Wow that pink and white combo and top pattern looks nice. Was that an option?
I'm about to start my vinyl top in the next week or so and I'm glad to have found this post and give me some confidence that it isn't terribly hard. How tight did you try and get the top? Did it matter? How's it holding up?
I was curious about the glue. I have some 3M 77 glue that i used for the seats, but it dried lumpy and hard. You can feel it through the seat a bit. I'll check this glue out and hopefully its better.
Quote from: tparker on August 08, 2019, 03:44:27 PM
Wow, that looks nice. Was that an option?
I'm about to start my vinyl top in the next week or so and I'm glad to have found this post and give me some confidence that it isn't terribly hard. How tight did you try and get the top? Did it matter? How's it holding up?
I was curious about the glue. I have some 3M 77 glue that i used for the seats, but it dried lumpy and hard. You can feel it through the seat a bit. I'll check this glue out and hopefully its better.
I used Weldwood contact adhesive by DAP. It comes in a gallon can and we sprayed it. I know an upholstery guy who does amazing work and he let me help him so I could learn. He showed me a ton of little tricks and I'd attempt it myself next time but I think if I had tried it on my own the first time, there would be mistakes. I watched dozens of videos and felt good but there are little things that come up and knowing those tricks can get you out of trouble.
The best trick he showed me that I did not see on a video was how to remove wrinkles along the sides by the drip rail (the area between the A and C pillar). As you work outward and small wrinkles appear, your inclination is to pull the fabric front or rear to pull the wrinkles out. Instead, pull sideways toward the drip rails with the "grain" of the wrinkle and using your other hand, gently massage the wrinkle working outward. It seems counterintuitive but it really worked like magic. If you pull front or rear, you risk having more wrinkled material in the pillars than you can work out.
Yeah, that was my thought. The first time is practice. LOL. I'm not looking for perfect, but hoping for something good. The good news is I'll be an expert after I mess it up. LOL
Thanks for the pics.
I felt the same way and started by doing my own headliner. It came out really nice but not quite perfect. The very back edges weren't smooth enough and it was driving me crazy. Because the vinyl top is five times the cost of a headliner, and it's so noticeable, I wasn't comfortable winging it.
As it turned out, the guy who taught me the vinyl top offered to fix the headliner. He made me do most of the top while he played around inside with the headliner. After a little tweaking, he had the headliner looking perfect. It really turned out to be a double win for me.
You can do it though. Believe it or not, most of our time was measuring the roof and the new fabric. We drew lines down the center of both and also crossways. Once everything was perfectly laid out with lines, the actual gluing didn't take too long. I think that's even more critical on the wide seam tops because if it is off just a tiny bit in any way, it will be super obvious on where the seams lay down.
I'm waiting for a top from SMS that cost me over $800 and could take up to a year to get here. I'm thinking the $300 my upholstery guy wants to charge to do this in my shop would be money well spent. And I have actually put them on back in my autobody days, but $300 is chump change compared to what could happen.
I agree. I was happy to attempt a headliner since they are only $70 but $350 plus is a very costly mistake.
One of the biggest issues with the install is rushing the glue bond...You want the glue to be just slightly tacky{almost dry to the touch} and not too wet..Trying to bond the top to the roof too early will not only run the risk of the glue pulling up on either the top or roof if a re-position is needed...It could also make bubbles under the top from the glue still gassing out...Read the addesive directions carefully and practice on something if you're not comfortable with the process..
I'm getting ready to repaint my 73 challenger and put it back to factory correct, including a white vinyl top.
I installed a pearl white vinyl top on a 68 charger I restored and it came out great; as said many times, they key is to be meticulous and go slow.
My question is about the roof paint under the vinyl top; I assumed most people just paint the top like a regular car and then install the vinyl top, but in a post early in this thread someone said they painted their roof aluminum before installing the vinyl top; anyone else do anything other than body paint on their roof before install?
I have some extra white single stage that I was considering painting my top and saving on the expensive body colour, but I'm still debating that.
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I put on a new roof skin so before the skin, I cleaned up all bracing that could not normally be accessed and put on a rust penetrating coating for insurance. The roof skin was e coated but I scuffed it well and put epoxy sealer down, followed by single stage acrylic urethane in body color. This was way more than the factory did but I wanted the best lasting result I could get. Extra expense was minimal but obviously it took much of my time.