So top corners of the windsheild seem to have a little bit of herpies.
Did they have a seam here and use lead from the factory?
My welding experience falls under exhaust piping held together with bubblegum.
I ditched the 90 amp harbor freight and got a Millermatic 211 MVP.
I plan on going to a trade school to get some paper under my belt.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/bb48c1bdaccb96f09f13a095448dcb9c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/7e89cfb18a7147f951128904797de923.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/cccd7ebf8112b81adce29373fdd5bb56.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/1b4a3258a5361696a0c58729e7e3e2f5.jpg)
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Yes, that is a joint where two panels come together. It was leaded from the factory. You'll be much better off with that Miller now compared to the Harbor Freight.
It's best to use a shrinker / stretcher too to make that replacement metal for the corner. :alan2cents: The one Harbor Freight sells is pretty good for the money.
I'll look into it. Thanks.
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Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 16, 2017, 08:50:11 AM
Yes, that is a joint where two panels come together. It was leaded from the factory. You'll be much better off with that Miller now compared to the Harbor Freight.
It's best to use a shrinker / stretcher too to make that replacement metal for the corner. :alan2cents: The one Harbor Freight sells is pretty good for the money.
:iagree: Going to need some fabrication there. Sometimes I use heavy construction paper and make a pattern and then transfer that to sheet metal. There are many ways to do it. People have their preferences. For me I would make that in 3 pieces. The side, the front and the top. Then weld them all together in place. Some guys are good enough to make that in one piece. I'm not one of those guys.
Make sure all the lead is gone in that area before you start welding. You'll enjoy that miller
Hows the rest of the roof? Sometimes those little repairs take a lot of time and it's hard to get the shape perfect too.
This will sound sacrilegious, but solder doesn't rust and if you get those holes clean enough, you could fill them with solder and not get into making/welding those patches. I'd grind the area and tap the edges in and fill them with said solder. Just my :alan2cents:
Quote from: jimynick on June 16, 2017, 07:41:02 PM
This will sound sacrilegious, but solder doesn't rust and if you get those holes clean enough, you could fill them with solder and not get into making/welding those patches. I'd grind the area and tap the edges in and fill them with said solder. Just my :alan2cents:
:iagree: But make sure the rust is completely gone. Rust will not tin and body solder will not stick to rust.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on June 16, 2017, 05:41:32 PM
Hows the rest of the roof? Sometimes those little repairs take a lot of time and it's hard to get the shape perfect too.
Roof is solid..
Same like this on both sides
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You should strip the car apart before doing any welding :alan2cents:
I have fiberglass blankets
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Quote from: anlauto on June 17, 2017, 11:19:29 AM
You should strip the car apart before doing any welding :alan2cents:
:iagree: Or at least a two foot area around and under it if you are only fixing that area.
The roof skin was beyond repair, it wasn't feasible to spend that much time patching it all up when the amount of Labor would outweigh the cost of just replacing it with a new skin(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180311/ec2c624375c55a5ae061dcbb16476896.jpg)
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That is a blessing in disguise. Sorry it will cost you now but you will have a much better car now. That's the difference between having a car you want to keep and one you feel like selling.
I had the same exact thing with my Challenger. Same small hole in the front. The internal support for the roof was rusted out even though it looked good from the outside. I did the same and removed the roof, repaired everything and put a new skin on the roof. :ohyeah: