Hi all, I haven't posted for a while. About 2 years ago I had the Fitech 6 pack set up installed on my T/A. I always had an issue with the idle coming down. A month or two after it was installed, I had issues with it starting. One of the times I was waiting for a rollback to get it to the shop. I tried starting it with the top of the air cleaner off, I hit the switch and a stream of fuel went straight up in the air about a foot or so. My mechanic and I were both sure that it was a stuck injector. When he contacted the Fitech tech's they had him jump through hoops checking everything else before one tech's said, I think it's a stuck injector (duh). I've also had other cold start issues. Sometimes it will start after 4 or 5 cranks, sometimes it will start after 10 or 11 cranks and sometimes it won't start. It will only start right away if you cycle the key switch twice. Hot start issues acts like it has no fuel as it sputters and then dies. If I play with the throttle I can sometimes get to catch then it surges like it's flooded, finally it clears out and runs fine. I have been to 3 different mechanics and $9k later the only thing they could get right is idle coming down correctly. All the mechanics and I agree the Fitech Techs are something to be desired with all the help they gave us.
So, I was just wondering, have any of you have put one of these systems on or am I the only stupid one.
I believe the next step will be to eat the $9k and put the carbs back on.
The reason for putting this on the T/A in the first place was for long distance trips that I like to do. Going over different elevations and the like the carbs can be a little finicky. I'm 70 years young and I don't do well with finicky any more.
And the purest can roll over now as I have also put an 833 o.d. trans. in, 4 wheel disc brakes, Dakota digital dash. 8-3/4 B-body rear end with offset spring hangers, 295x15s tires, power windows, Pro Car seats, MSD ignition, and air-conditioning(yes I got the compressor to fit under the air cleaner without cutting or modifying) on an original FM3 T/A that I've owned since 1979 or80.
Ah man that really sucks...those EFI 6 packs are really impressive "looking" for sure, too bad you can't get them to work right.
I installed a FiTech 4bbl system, and I wasn't impressed....but it was supposed to get better with time :dunno:
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I'm afraid I can't help with the Fitech 6 pack system but I have the Edelbrock E Street EFI and i went through a few different maps before I found the one that runs good. You might need to try that. I also need to cycle the ignition switch a couple times to get it to start right up. Every time I cycle the switch it gives it a shot of gas kinda like pumping the pedal a couple times with a carb.
Sorry, I can't help either, but you may have just saved me from a high dollar headache. :headbang:
You know it's a funny thing, when I drive my modern car I never think about the fuel injection but when I drive the Barracuda I always have in the back of my mind the scary feeling that the EFI could just stop working at any time and there's nothing I can do about it. Don't get me wrong, it was a big improvement over the carb, but if this EFI ever does quit I'm putting the carb back on.
Not a Fitech fan. Lots of the computers have to be sent back to repair including this one. Holleys seem to be more reliable.
Dodge1933, I don't think you are alone with this issue. Check out this link. https://fitechefituning.com/fitech-efi-tuning-forum-2/topic/hot-start-issue-data-log-included/?part=1
make sure you have all the software updates for your setup and the correct profiles. we went through this on a friends pro flo 4 setup
Thanks to the OP for sharing your experience and sorry for your issues.
I've been wanting to replace the stock Six Pack setup on my wife's Challenger for awhile now but have been hearing of a number of issues with the FItech Six Pack setup.
I was encouraged when rumors were going around about Holley doing a Sniper Six Pack setup but that hasn't happened.
I have seen a number of articles and videos regarding FItech Six Pack setups, wonder if they are also having issues.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/kick-carbs-installing-fitechs-go-efi-tri-power-600hp-system-71-challenger/
Good luck and keep us updated, many of us are watching :popcorn:
Thank you for the input we have got on the subject. I hope this will help people make their own decisions on weather to install EFI or not. The last shop that worked on it wants me to come in today as they said there are not comfortable billing me for something that is not fixed correctly. I am going over to talk today and see what happens. I told them I am not spending any more money and they understand that. We'll see what happens. Thanks Jack fore the link for the hot start forum. I'm taking that with me today. I keep you posted.
This is one of those "you probably already know this, but I'm going to say it anyways just to be sure" comments: For the 4 bbl version, the FiTech computer doesn't start self-tuning until the coolant temperature gets above 170 degrees F. During my first 500 miles on the engine, the temp never went above 163.... because I forgot that I had a 160 degree thermostat in it. I have a 180 degree unit to put before spring.
I hope you're able to get your running issues corrected. That's waaay too much money spent to be having problems.
Quote from: Dakota on January 20, 2021, 09:49:15 AM
This is one of those "you probably already know this, but I'm going to say it anyways just to be sure" comments: For the 4 bbl version, the FiTech computer doesn't start self-tuning until the coolant temperature gets above 170 degrees F. During my first 500 miles on the engine, the temp never went above 163.... because I forgot that I had a 160 degree thermostat in it. I have a 180 degree unit to put before spring.
I hope you're able to get your running issues corrected. That's waaay too much money spent to be having problems.
I wonder if this could be the issue with the last car I restored...I had zero to do with building the engine, I just wired it up and a way we went....however it never did seem to run very well... :thinking:
Yes the last shop I went to discovered I was running under under 170 most of the time also. I had put a 160 thermostat in when I was having over heating issues with the carbs. They changed it to 195 but it did not do anything for the starting issues. They also said the believe my system is not learning until around 180. It does run better at the higher temps. But I've still got the old school mentality that anything over 180-190 is too hot. Mine runs about 200 now and after it gets started and warmed up it run great. Just wont start.
FITECH 4 barrel on 2 cars. NO issues, BUT............... Read the instructions CAREFULLY You cant route I beleive the blue wires anywhere close to spark plug wiring. It will interfere with signals. Ask me how I know Also, have you contacted FITECH about your issues??
I don't have the six pack setup but running Fitech EFI. I am running their 4 barrel EFI with timing control.
Are you using the stock distributor? Fitech recommend the MSD billet distributor to provide clean signal to the EFI. The ignition signal wire should also be shielded and away from other electrical wiring, ignition wiring. Did you do a separate ground wire for the EFI base to the engine block? You need to turn ignition on first and allow the fuel pump to complete the cycling before cranking. I initially cannot start the engine and had to open up the IAC screw to let air in. Once it was done, engine fired first crank. It should run around 4 to 10 IAC steps when fully warm up. The ECU is also very sensitive to heat. I have restart problem after a drive and the throttle body was very hot. I think the heat was affecting the electronic sitting on top of the manifold. The problem was solved after I change to an insulating type gasket. I think 180 to 200 engine temp is normal in stop and go City traffic. Over 210 would be a concern. Temp will go lower on highway speed.
Please read my original post as to the Fitech help and other issues I am having. As for the blue wire it has been checked and rechecked so the routing is not receiving any RF interference.
I was also wondering all you with small blocks. Where are you tapping in to install the temp sender for the EFI. My six pack manifold has 1 small hole for the dash gauge sender. We have installed a tee at the bottom of the heater hose for the EFI temp sender. And it shows 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the one for the dash. Another problem we have been contending with. It has been suggested we drill another hole in the manifold, but that's not going to happen on a 50 year old original factory manifold.
I would think engine coolant temperature. What about off of the engine block drain?
I bought a pigtail from Summit (see link below) and extended the FiTech temp sensor wiring harness so I could thread the sensor into one of the coolant drain plugs on the side of the block (I believe it was the driver side) on my 340.
I had originally tried putting a tapped spacer under the thermostat housing cover but the extra height created an interference issue with the A/C compressor. Then I tried a lower profile thermostat housing that I could tap my own opening in on the side, but the connection point for the radiator hose had no barb on it which left me worried the hose would blow off at an inconvenient moment (like when I was working on the engine). After all this, I extended the harness.
FiTech will tell you that cutting the sensor harness will void their warranty but my unit was already a couple of years old at that point so I didn't worry about it. While driving the car, the indicated temp on the FiTech handheld of 160-163 degrees matched my thermostat rating of 160 degrees so I think this is a valid signal into the FiTech computer. As noted above, this is too low a temperature for the FiTech computer to self-program so a higher temp thermostat is needed.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-tx3a
Good idea on using the sensor in place of the engine drain plug. I'm going to switch mine over to that on my MS install.
The block drain sounds like a good idea. I will look into that. In the mean time I went back over to the last shop that worked on it to see what they would do. The owner said it wasn't right to be charged for something they didn't get fixed. So they are going to see about get more info and research it some more to get a game plane and will call me when they think they have all their duck in a row. No charge. So they are going to try and make it right. It's a good reputable shop and come highly recommended. We'll just have to wait and see.
Sorry no offering on the ops issue.
I do like the temp sensor in block idea.
Do you need a pigtail? If you are cutting into the FiTech wire anyway - just spice in an extension no? Same pigtail is $3 at Rockauto.