Given the extent of the deterioration and missing parts I look at as more a case of saving a car as opposed to restoring it. There was not a single part that wasn't damaged, rotted, worn out or missing. The cost just to replace rebuild and repair I'm sure will outweigh its value in the end at least in the short term but I have a hard time leaving things half done or not done to my best ability. So over the course of the last 5 years I've ended up re-doing a lot of stuff I'd already done once before dragging the process out. I also started out by buying a lot of remanufactured parts that are now being replaced with date and part number correct restored parts. It's become an obsession really. The fun kind, like treasure hunting and research and learning.
The car was bought knowing full well that it was a huge project. It's a true 71 340 cuda convertible in fy1 with black interior and black billboards. The convertible and billboard options making it extremely rare... and awesome in my opinion. I normally couldn't afford such a car but it's condition brought it within budget. I also liked that it was a 340 car even though the motor and trans are lost long ago. I continue to try and track the history of it and research parts it would have had originally.
To date, it got blasted and spent two years in body work and paint back to fy1. Lots of amd sheet metal replacements. Got a repop set of rallyes and staggered rubber but now I'm thinking of going stock rallye with polyglass maybe later on. Rear a body case is getting put back to a 489 with the upgrade of a sure grip. Dash got redone by instrument specialties but in hind sight I probably should have done it myself to save some $$ but they did do a great job. Did the upholstery myself. Interior is getting finished as well as everything else. Just got the steering box back from firm feel. Carb is at harms getting restored. Pretty much anything needing plating as part of the restoration process has been sent out. I'm in the process of using some Gibson paints for the grill and organosol. Brewers is putting together a 4 speed for me and a local friend is helping with the other bits as well as the engine.
So currently I'm focused on the engine. My friend is trading blocks with me as he has one that's more date correct and then I have a backup block in case the first one isn't rebuildable. He is suggesting a stroked set up which has some attractive advantages like lower rpm and good drivability with the gears selected, highway and town. I'm thinking of using a timing gear and crane rockers cause I already have them. My main goal is fun and drivability for the long term, not a certain horsepower expectation. I also want the engine bay to look completely factory original with minimal variables. I heard on CC that a striker may require some modifications with the advance which I'm still learning more about. And that a previously machined block may have stroke complications. Any thoughts or insight I can learn here on that would be great.
Thanks
MikeMikeMike
And everyone was right. It is so much easier to post pics here! I felt like a real dummy on other sites for always screwing that up...
Famous last words before screwing it up... :dunno:
Looks great now :drooling: Didn't you end up putting frame connectors in it or something ? I remember back when something that really made me cringe :thinking:
Looking good! :twothumbsup: Love your car man. :inlove:
Is that a bronco or scout behind it? :lookatthat:
Really appreciate when someone takes a car left for dead and brings it back to life and enjoyment.
Car looks really good.
Working on my own. Y-1, A66 Challenger vert that I have had stored since 1984. Needs the usual trunk floor and driver's side floor patch, but overall solid.
Would love to see some more pics of your Cuda.
I can really relate to the "want to enjoy your car" comment in prior posts
Best wishes for enjoying the Cuda.
:wrenching:
I'm just happy you saved such a rare a valuable car :worship:
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on October 05, 2017, 05:05:38 AM
And everyone was right. It is so much easier to post pics here!
So true! With that said, lets see some more pics! Post 'em up! :takepicture:
Sure. Here's a couple more ...the day it arrived and the day it came back from paint. If you want anything specific let me know.
Man I should have bought that car....I love it ! :drooling:
There was a dead one that came from Prince George B.C> years ago. I can't remember the original colours though. It had been repainted silver with red billboards and last time I seen it twenty five years ago, it was in Winnipeg basically broken in two, Sam had it.
You have two very cool and rare cars. Pretty lucky guy you are! 8)
After clear...
If you have any detail pictures of using hardtop quarters on a vert in particular up at the belt line trim area I am interested.
Great car MikeMikeMike! Keeps us posted on the progress! :banana:
Thanks. Hi Larry here are the only other ones I have that I didn't already post on CC. The belt trim is on it now but if you want a specific angle I can take a new photo after the holiday. Just let me know.
Thanks
MikeMikeMike
Sweeeeeet! The steering wheel looks fantastic. :clapping:
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on October 05, 2017, 10:19:12 PM
I had a request on the steering wheel. Basically re-groove the grain with a scalpel and rub in ebony stain. Wipe off excess and mix the other two to match original. Finish with a clear coat and you're good to go...
Thanks 3M, the wheel looks good. :bigthumb: Was that your first one, or was there a learning curve?
That was my first and only steering wheel so it was a little nerve racking cutting the grain. The problem was parts of the wheel had original grain and color and the name Tricia engraved which I wanted to preserve while other parts had been worn smooth. So I tried to continue the grain patterns into the worn areas. I did have to wipe the stain off several times when it didn't look right. I also found that dabbing the lighter stain over the ebony allowed the ebony to bleed a bit widening the grain effect. When I used a brushing motion it didn't look as good.
The good part was it wiped off easily because I did try about 7-8 times before I felt the whole wheel looked correct. And I smudged it a couple times by mistake. :headbang:
Good luck!
Nice job on the wheel all right!
Steering wheel looks great, like a natural wood patina!
It will be fun to watch this build come together :bigthumb:
And heres a pic where I was in the process of testing mix ratios of the two lighter stains to match the color of the stain that was still on the wheel... You can see the new stain, the worn no stain area and the original stain area... This part probably took longer than the actual grain cutting...
Here is a pic after the proper stain mix had been created and applied. The area just beside the masking tape is the original color and grain. You can see its fairly darker with slightly closer packed grain. The rest of the wheel in the picture is what I did.
Zoomed in farther on transition...
Just putting these out there as after my original post I realized there had been an ongoing thread on the forum about this very subject. Best part about this way is anyone can do it with a wheel in similar condition with a couple simple supplies and as far as I can tell, its pretty spot on. My wheel wasn't cracked or anything though.
nice job !!
No luck on that piece of weatherstrip yet Mike, but I never give up. :rebelflag" Lookin sweet. :banana:
Very nice work great car keep posting.
Woow Great project!
Grill paint looks really nice! :bigthumb:
Thanks. Work goes on steadily. Not very exciting stuff but this past couple weeks I cleaned up the spare and the lug wrench. I decided not to paint either of them to preserve their original markings. I did paint the jack though. I also rebuilt the power steering pump which was oddly satisfying. Probably because the rebuild kit I got was actually correct and everything fit nice.
On the down side, I got word that another block failed the machinist's inspection :'(
Block 1: came with the car, non numbers, pitted along bell housing beyond repair.
Block 2: was a 318 so I sold it off. (also came with car)
Block 3: came with a transmission I'm using, dated a little late and .030 set aside as last ditch option
Block 4: I bought off eBay at more than I normally would pay but the guy was very exact about the cast date... guy was off by more than a year and .030 which I saw once it had already been freighted to me :pullinghair: so I traded it for...
Block 5: Nice cast date, standard bore... cracked along lifter galley. Fortunately the buddy that traded blocks with me had a couple more so we decided to bring both of the remaining ones in to be checked. Everyone think positive thoughts that these blocks will check out! I'm actually feeling worse for my friend that has been holding on to a block that have been cracked all this time. I'm praying he doesn't see the current two fail as well.
Also, I am trying to figure out if I have a 318 driver side motor mount or a 340 one (seeing as both blocks came with this car) the 340 should be 1/4" narrower but I don't know the actual width that it should be. I no longer have the 318 block to compare but maybe an easier question to answer would be, should the mount fit snug against the 340 anchor point? or is it generally shimmed and if so, how much?
Also, this mount in question has a cut in it from someone's cut off wheel and goes about an inch through the middle. If I weld it up it should be fine right? Or are repairs not recommended to this area?
Thanks.
Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with the engine. The rest of the car looks fantastic. Here's a 318 340 engine mount / motor mount guide that might help identify them.
Great work Mike! :ohyeah: I guess from your post in my restoration thread that you also contaminated your Cuda with subframe connectors? :o
Finally have a block that checks out and we are underway on that. J heads checked out as well. So finally some positive momentum on that front. Also got my 4 speed back from brewer's this week. Its hard to look at knowing I can't do much with it until the motor comes back. Plans are in the works to get the blackout organosol painted in the next few weeks as well as getting some help to put the top back on. So things are kind of motoring along. Maybe I can meet my kids deadline of driving it this summer?
:notsure:
Quick question... on 71 cudas do the tail light cast surrounds get painted organisol just like the tail panel or are they a satin black? Thanks.
They should match the tail panel. :alan2cents:
Which weather stripping are you looking for?
Ken
Hi Mike,
Thank you! I really appreciate your business and trusting me to restore your rare carburetor, I'm glad you like it!
The piece that rides above the drivers door glass... here is the pic showing the passenger side... Thanks.
After years of using Eastwood rattle cans I tried zinc plating a few months back and it was kind of a pain for a novice like me to get right and even and the chromate is pretty nasty stuff so I decided to try powder coating. I gotta say I wish I had started doing this years ago. I wish I had more parts around that needed to be black gray or clear. Parts below are satin clear, semi gloss black and "chrome" which isn't a bad match for zinc plated.
Nice! Show us your powder coating setup please.
Will do. In the mean time basically I bought the Eastwood 2 phase powder gun and about 8 bottles of powder to mess around with.
I went to harbor freight and got a couple in line filters and a regulator with a gauge. Already have an air compressor.
Got an old toaster oven off the appliance graveyard shelf in my barn.
Got a cheap IR thermometer off amazon.
Its pretty easy once you zero in on the proper temp for the toaster. I have my eye out for an old kitchen oven so I can start doing bigger parts. I love that I can bolt the part on about an hour after painting it. Also I have basically had no issues where as rattle cans sometimes don't dry completely, react with base coats badly, drip or run, etc. If I was better with a can I'm sure I'd have fewer issues but for me this method is easiest. Heck, I might blast parts I've already painted just to do them in powder.
Tomorrow I also will be installing the convertible top frame so I'm getting excited for that.
Also, I just got back my tail lenses today that the painter tested the gibson restorations organosol on them. Here's how they compare with the hood of an AAR that the owner told me was sprayed with an original organosol mixture a few years ago. Didn't know paint would survive that long on the shelf, but anyway... the original looks a bit rougher but I may be being just too anal about this also.
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) maybe you can post a close up of your method that you posted on youtube to compare? Maybe your method looks a little closer. My painter watched your video too and isn't used to all these mopar grill and tail colors I keep throwing at him. ;)
Also, if you are thinking of doing zinc plating here's some results... brake part top = wire brushed rust, middle = electrolysis rust removal filled in pits a little, bottom = zinc plated (no chromate).
Convertible pins, after plating and after buffing with chrome polish (fine abrasive).
I found it extremely difficult to get even coverage on anything that 'cast shadows' on itself because the zinc liked to travel a straight path to the surface. Also didn't work well on large parts because the distance from the electrode was too extreme in many areas. And finally, didn't match the original zinc sheen the same. It was fun to experiment though.
The flow of the current in the bath is important. Stirring the mixture should help get better coverage if I understand it correctly. Also putting more anodes (or cathodes?) in there should help to create more currents to make it cover the part better. I have never tried but will do so when I'm at that stage in my restoration.
Per
What I ended up doing is switching to a small round container with an aquarium bubbler agitating and lining the inner walls with a ring of zinc flashing. It worked ok but still won't reach inside a tube or something like that.
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on December 05, 2017, 07:34:24 AM
The piece that rides above the drivers door glass... here is the pic showing the passenger side... Thanks.
:pullinghair: :headbang: Searching, begging the WORLDWIDE WEB. I betcha
@CudamanTom (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cudamantom_68) has one, but he's MIA. :notsure:
Powder coating setup pics... nothing fancy here... the booth has a vent fan but works better without. The paper makes cleanup easier so powders don't mix on the part.
Quote from: Roadman on December 07, 2017, 03:45:07 PM
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on December 05, 2017, 07:34:24 AM
The piece that rides above the drivers door glass... here is the pic showing the passenger side... Thanks.
:pullinghair: :headbang: Searching, begging the WORLDWIDE WEB. I betcha @CudamanTom (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cudamantom_68) has one, but he's MIA. :notsure:
I appreciate your continued efforts on this! :thankyou:
Can someone post a picture showing the original location of the convertible top warning sticker? My top is going on tonight and that sticker has been sitting on the shelf for months taunting me. :pokeeye:
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on December 08, 2017, 09:51:40 AM
Can someone post a picture showing the original location of the convertible top warning sticker? My top is going on tonight and that sticker has been sitting on the shelf for months taunting me. :pokeeye:
This is an original 1971 Cuda (except this car doesn't have frame connectors :pokeeye:) :)
Quote from: anlauto on December 08, 2017, 09:55:51 AM
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on December 08, 2017, 09:51:40 AM
Can someone post a picture showing the original location of the convertible top warning sticker? My top is going on tonight and that sticker has been sitting on the shelf for months taunting me. :pokeeye:
This is an original 1971 Cuda (except this car doesn't have frame connectors :pokeeye:) :)
You got me :haha:
I was just looking at your louvre.. louver? :thinking: cuda in the gallery. Awesome. Thanks for the picture!
Vert frame is on and looking good. Next on the list, who makes the best OEM style convertible tops? And did they all have the tempered plexiglass zipper rear window? Mine came with such a rear window but the date code on the glass is december of 72, about two years later than I'd expect for my car. So I'm guessing the one that was with the car is a replacement. I've been looking at the convertibletopguys.com but I know nothing about them. After boosting my confidence with the seats, I decided I'd be installing this myself so I'd be getting a staple gun, the glue, all the required supplies.
Just ordered a radiator from Glen Ray yesterday. If you order while he is at a show you can get a discount.
They all had glass back windows, I get all mine from Legendary Auto Interiors, why go anywhere else. :alan2cents:
Your word is gold Alan. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Im on my way to their site now to order with confidence.
Thanks!
:takemymoney:
...and I did it with no dig against frame connectors.... :haha: :haha:...see I can play nice too :handshake:
I even got 10% off the top, pad, glass and weather strip and 20%off the boot. I swore I was done for a while after the early fall purchases but the holiday discounts are hard to pass up if you gotta buy it anyway. Accurate exhaust discount, check, glen ray discount, check, legendary discount, check. Look at all the money I'm saving us dear...
Side note, I recently found out that in NH you can run a license plate on your car matching the year of the car. After confirming with the dmv I pulled the trigger on this just for fun...
do they let you modify the plate also? :driving:
Quote from: 6bblgt on December 11, 2017, 12:58:53 PM
do they let you modify the plate also? :driving:
I might ask forgiveness rather than permission on that one (and maybe just use grease pen that'll rub off). Actually the thought hadn't occurred to me until you mentioned it.
Convertible top came in. Surprised it didn't say legendary on the box. comes from another vendor but looks like a nice top. Still waiting on the weather strip set. They didn't carry tack strips though so that's next on the list. What are the proper size fiberboard tack strips and where can you find them? Mine were mostly disintegrated. I do have the felt strips for the center portions of the two forward most bows.
The inner dimension channel sizes are
Rear (above glass) bow 1/2" to 9/16" tall by 9/16" wide
Header and middle bow 3/8" tall by 5/8" wide at the base then comes in to 5/16" wide at the top.
The sizes listed here for a 71 vert all seem way too shallow
http://www.hydroe.com/Parts_Available.html?ID=124&Cyear=1971
I'm going to re-use the tack strip that goes along the trunk well.
For anyone else trying to tackle this, I talked with a semi retired guy near me and he told me that for the really nice cars that he does he uses layered white birch laminate, layered and formed to the bows. So off to Home Depot I went and after cutting thin ply into several strips followed by some soaking and bonding I left them clamped to the bows for two weeks and they turned out pretty good (I think). We will see how they hold.
The next question I have is do the pads align exactly with the frame sides? Cause if I line mine up exactly, the front rides up out of the recess about a half inch which I'm sure will make a noticeable bump. Does that corner get trimmed? Or does the edge slide down over the frame sides more?
Thanks! Happy new year!
Mike
The pad starts off with the majority of the pad going forward, three screws through the pad into the header then fold the pad back over itself toward the rear of the car.... That way theres padding over the screws so they don't poke through the top....
:unbelievable: Oh man!! I' glad i ran across that. I sas wondering what everyone does with the wood grwin steering wheels. That seems to be one of the few things I've run across that don't seem to be available. :woohoo:
Can someone post a picture of the convertible wind deflectors installed. I took mine off 6 years ago and now I can't find any reference on how they go back on! Can't believe it's been so long since the initial disassembly.
Anyway, progress is still steady. Got the Gibson organisol sprayed so I was able to put the whole tail panel back together. Trunk is all buttoned up with the gas filler neck now installed. The convertible top was probably the hardest thing I have ever done on a car to date. Didn't help that the frame had gotten all out of whack when it was getting sand blasted :pullinghair: so there were days spent just adjusting that. I finally got the whole thing installed and it wouldn't close easily and I could see the top of the rear window under the main cover. :headbang: I was losing sleep over this so I ended up taking the whole thing off and starting over. All I could see were the imperfections and it drove me nuts. Much happier now though that everything is lining up and fitting better. Still not to my perfection standards but I'm hoping some days out in the summer sun will smooth some little wrinkles.
Went to the dmv and got my '71 dated rscr plate registered. Maybe jumping the gun a bit but summer due date will be here before I know it.
The diff is done and just waiting on the axles. Fan clutch rebuilt. Just got engine mounts and date coded radiator. Also got an accurate exhaust set just waiting for the motor due in a couple months. It's getting to the point where I can see this actually running by this summer. Just waiting for the inevitable set backs once I get the engine back and try putting all the drive train together. We will see (soon).
Can you post pics of your process for making the flanged areas on the Cuda quarters. I am working what you used for tools.
Thank you. I will be making a couple convertible quarters soon.
Quote from: Mymcodebee on February 26, 2018, 10:22:59 AM
Can you post pics of your process for making the flanged areas on the Cuda quarters. I am working what you used for tools.
Thank you. I will be making a couple convertible quarters soon.
+1.
Seems like this detail is a black art and no one wants to post step by step details on how to do this.
Quote from: larry4406 on February 26, 2018, 03:54:33 PM
Quote from: Mymcodebee on February 26, 2018, 10:22:59 AM
Can you post pics of your process for making the flanged areas on the Cuda quarters. I am working what you used for tools.
Thank you. I will be making a couple convertible quarters soon.
+1.
Seems like this detail is a black art and no one wants to post step by step details on how to do this.
Making the flange isn't as tough as cutting at just the right spot.... Flanging can be done with a tool like in the linked video.... Because the flange for a vert needs a bigger step it would require a different step ground into the die but the concept remains the same...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=v5QZD82ftHA
Here's another style tool... Same deal most of these are designed to flange sheetmetal for panel repair.... But by modifying the dies a bigger step isn't hard to achieve...
:whiteflag:
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on February 19, 2018, 03:02:45 PM
Can someone post a picture of the convertible wind deflectors installed. I took mine off 6 years ago and now I can't find any reference on how they go back on! Can't believe it's been so long since the initial disassembly.
Are these what you are looking for? Not mine, snagged off the net years ago.
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 26, 2018, 05:58:01 PM
Quote from: larry4406 on February 26, 2018, 03:54:33 PM
Quote from: Mymcodebee on February 26, 2018, 10:22:59 AM
Can you post pics of your process for making the flanged areas on the Cuda quarters. I am working what you used for tools.
Thank you. I will be making a couple convertible quarters soon.
+1.
Seems like this detail is a black art and no one wants to post step by step details on how to do this.
Making the flange isn't as tough as cutting at just the right spot.... Flanging can be done with a tool like in the linked video.... Because the flange for a vert needs a bigger step it would require a different step ground into the die but the concept remains the same...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=v5QZD82ftHA
Here's another style tool... Same deal most of these are designed to flange sheetmetal for panel repair.... But by modifying the dies a bigger step isn't hard to achieve...
Ok thank you. I was actually going to buy this bead roller from Eastwoods but then it makes it a two person job.
Quote from: larry4406 on February 27, 2018, 03:05:09 AM
:whiteflag:Quote from: MikeMikeMike on February 19, 2018, 03:02:45 PM
Can someone post a picture of the convertible wind deflectors installed. I took mine off 6 years ago and now I can't find any reference on how they go back on! Can't believe it's been so long since the initial disassembly.
Are these what you are looking for? Not mine, snagged off the net years ago.
Thanks Larry! That's exactly what I was looking for! Perfect :bradsthumb:
Quote from: Mymcodebee on February 26, 2018, 10:22:59 AM
Can you post pics of your process for making the flanged areas on the Cuda quarters. I am working what you used for tools.
Thank you. I will be making a couple convertible quarters soon.
Sorry man, I have had a couple people ask and at the time it was done, I didn't take any good pictures of that edge and I had already put all the stainless on covering it. Sorry! But yes, essentially others are correct that it was cut exactly where the original quarter ended and then a bead pressed into it, again, like the original. I wasn't there when my body guy did it so I couldn't say for sure what tool/ process was used. If I had known what a big deal it would be I would have done a better job documenting it. If you are in NH, Dennis Swanson of Precious Metals in Allenstown did the work and he could tell you.
Latest Update:
Convertible top is much better after buying a steamer at harbor freight. I found that putting a towel over the top and seaming between the towel and vinyl worked best and held in the steam a bit better. After its out in the sun we'll see how the rest smooths out. I'll probably steam it a bit more too. Before and after pics...
The windshield is in. I asked the pro installer to use the buterol sp? adhesive dam and he assured me that his stuff would be fine. Well, probably no one will notice but me, but the line is pretty messy along the bottom. You can only see it if you look at a sharp angle, still, it annoys me. Trim spacing was ok though as he said it would be.
Just waiting on the rear and engine....
:clapping: :1place:
That looks good.
Looking good tripleMike :cheers:
The rear diff was puking oil after the first guy rebuilt it. It was the wrong case for my car anyway. So I had a new correct one built with LS. After a long wait, the rear end is all back in the car and looking good. Nice to see all 4 wheels back on. Also mocked up the trans while waiting for the motor due this month. The forward shift rod is an overdrive so that's why its upside down.
Question: The car came from the factory with billboards and I intend to put them back on after the car settles with the motor in. I've seen some bad things online regarding Pheonix Graphics which graveyard cars goes on and on about. Who makes the best billboard decals?
Thanks!
Question: The car came from the factory with billboards and I intend to put them back on after the car settles with the motor in. I've seen some bad things online regarding Pheonix Graphics which graveyard cars goes on and on about. Who makes the best billboard decals?
Thanks!
[/quote]
Performance car graphics hands down!!!
Anyone can make a decal; its the prep work with uniform white space, labeling, backing paper and attention to details that makes the difference.
Super cool car and I like the build and your can do attitude. :ohyeah:
Very nice build!!!
Thanks all. I will make an order from Performance Graphics today!
Unfortunately my goal of getting the car done by the middle of summer didn't work out as I was still waiting on some large items. I recently got the engine back though and its ready for paint which will be done this week. Then I'll actually be removing the hood as that is now the easiest way to install the engine now, because I hooked up all the steering and brake lines and bled them and such while waiting for the engine. After its in, the transmission, billboards, prop shaft, carb, hoses and wires, air box, exhaust, etc. are all ready to be installed. Other than a dozen little parts I'll discover I'm missing, it should go pretty quick?
:notsure:
My next goal is to get it on the road before the end of aug so I can get it's state inspection on time.
Good luck with it. I have no problem going in from the top anyway, the biggest issue is risking damaging the hood and tops of the fenders when you pull and remount it. Just use a helper and lots of blankets.
Your 1-2 lever is upside down :alan2cents:
Hmm. Its been a while since I tinkered with the transmission so I'll have to take a look. One of the levers is intentionally inverted due to the addition of an overdrive. Thanks for pointing it out though.
Now just waiting for the paint to cure. I find the waiting to be the hardest part. Hood is off and ready to accept the engine...
Ah: That looks great!
I ran into the inverted rod problem when I found out that my Challenger had a built overdrive unit in it
Need help finding the right fan belt...
Trying to stay out of the rain today as I build up the 340. I have a hang up though... I bought the quanta authentic resto fan/ alternator belt from year one, but its just that, I need a alt/ fan/ crank pulley belt but I can't find any listings for one?
:notsure:
I double checked the books I have as well as a bunch of online photos to make sure I'm not being an idiot, as much as possible. I went to a couple local stores to see if they had anything, but all they had were toothed and labeled belts which didn't look original. One guy said the size that I needed looked to be a "1030"? not sure how that equates to an actual belt but I measured what I should have and it comes to 45 1/2". Anyway, any tips on where to find said alternator, fan and crank pulley belt would be great.
Engine: 340 year 71
Alt, single pulley
Fan single pulley
crank double pulley
power steering pump standard single pulley.
Thanks
Mike
Wow just read thru whole thread. Awsome progress.
Thanks for bringing it back to greatness.
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on August 17, 2018, 01:13:10 PM
Need help finding the right fan belt...
Trying to stay out of the rain today as I build up the 340. I have a hang up though... I bought the quanta authentic resto fan/ alternator belt from year one, but its just that, I need a alt/ fan/ crank pulley belt but I can't find any listings for one?
:notsure:
I double checked the books I have as well as a bunch of online photos to make sure I'm not being an idiot, as much as possible. I went to a couple local stores to see if they had anything, but all they had were toothed and labeled belts which didn't look original. One guy said the size that I needed looked to be a "1030"? not sure how that equates to an actual belt but I measured what I should have and it comes to 45 1/2". Anyway, any tips on where to find said alternator, fan and crank pulley belt would be great.
Engine: 340 year 71
Alt, single pulley
Fan single pulley
crank double pulley
power steering pump standard single pulley.
Thanks
Mike
Mike
Not sure about that part number but it should be:
Dayco 15475DR for Fan, Crank and WP
15 is the width and 475 is the length
The part number is sometimes listed the other way 47515
If you wanted a 45.5 belt you would get a 45515 or a 15455
Hope that helps
Thanks for the encouragement. Thanks also Marty on the belt info. So weird that that belt is hard to pinpoint yet seems pretty standard in use. I will search those numbers and purchase a belt today because I'm getting anxious.
Speaking of, I decided that I didn't want to wait any longer to put the drive train in. I tend to jump around and do what ever I'm in the mood to tackle rather than finishing all the engine dress first. May make some items harder later but meh.
The only part that was difficult was there is a set screw/ adjuster on the shifter that was hitting the tunnel and causing the rear not to line up. Once I took that out she went right in. May have to "adjust" the tunnel hole for the shifter later to accept the screw but overall it went really well. I think being a small block probably helped a ton.
Block is a date correct 340 bored 30 over standard stroke. Close to stock cam. Basically back to oem specs. Forged crank.
J heads, intake, and manifolds I believe original to car. Valves redone. Kinda killed me not to use a set of 70 manifolds I had but it wouldn't have been correct for the car.
Transmission is a date correct case 4 speed overdrive from brewers.
Exhaust is from accurate exhaust.
Picture to follow...
Exhaust lined up real nice. Really surprised how well everything fit. Expected several days of headaches but it all just bolted together flawlessly (just jinxed myself I know). Loving the stance now that the engine is in. Never seen it with an engine in it before. Just got used to it being up in the air for ride height.
Yeah my accurate system fit with no problems.
Compare to the TTI systems I have put on two other people's cars it was a dream.
Looks very nice!
Alternator question
I have Three wires and two connection points on the alt. Please advise. Thanks. Mike
You have the wrong alternator, you should have a dual feed alternator....I'm sure there's some way to jerry-rig a jumper wire or something :dunno:
Crap. Thanks though for confirming I wasn't crazy. I am now in the market for a restored 71 alternator. Anyone?
Two steps forward, a few back, like the alternator, I'm finding some stuff I bought ages ago does not actually fit as intended, but no worries. The rest is going well while I wait for parts and help. I'm currently making a tool for removing the over center spring because the center force clutch says to... but after putting a bunch of side washers in the coils, its still just shy of coming off. If it works I'll post some pics of it. All the large parts that have been hanging around forever are finally installed and I have room to walk around. Its pretty thrilling to see things coming together finally.
Next week I'm getting help to make some adjustments as well as putting on the billboards. Hopefully it'll be ready to crank within a few weeks, fingers crossed.
Worked on the first try... the pipe uses the round retainer as leverage and the cut out and channel guide the spring end up to where you can then wiggle off the over center spring. A drilled hole with a screw driver stick through give you rotational leverage.
Quote from: MikeMikeMike on August 29, 2018, 05:55:23 PM
Crap. Thanks though for confirming I wasn't crazy. I am now in the market for a restored 71 alternator. Anyone?
I just got one back from Dixie Restorations and just happen to have this extra one lying around, I bought it rebuilt, but it doesn't have the correct rear bearing but works great and doesn't look too terrible, P.M me if your interested.
Taking care of some minor nagging issues while waiting on final bits... thought this may help if anyone else has dealt with trying to re-attach parts with worn out pot metal posts. Its not visually correct if the fastener is being judged, but my alternative was to buy repop parts. I basically rebuild the posts using jb weld and use push nuts / washers as opposed to thread cutting ones.
Just buy new ones man ! :o
At some point I will. But you gotta spread the cost out man! Right now I'm feeling a little bit poor and counting the dollars I'm shelling out and it's starting to hurt again. Wait for me to heal ;)
In the mean time I just thought I'd share some tricks I came up with along the way that worked out.
I should add that I'm feeling poor partially because I decided not to ground out or 'construct ' a work around clutch safety switch in favor of buying a proper one. My god those are pricey for what they are.
Another day another question... we'll, a few actually.
1. Do I need new torsion bars? At first I thought oh cool stance. Now I'm thinking those splash guards look too close...
2. Same closeness on the rear. It looked cool at first but now I'm wondering if I'll hear rubbing at every corner. Is there enough clearance on the back fender?
3. SMS auto made me a column but the red key ignition wires fell out of the plug. They haven't gotten back to me but I'm wondering if there is a way to tell which goes in what plug hole.
Alan, I have a feeling I'm about to become even more poor :rofl:
@Topcat (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/topcat_46)
A weekend of ups and downs but progress is being made. First those questions above... I'll have to adjust my front suspension to raise it up a bit so that's been added to the list. Second, the wheel clearance in the rear is just too close for my liking. I read somewhere that the repop fender lips are a little deeper than the originals so that is the reason this tire size works so well for others it seems. I'll be swapping them with a more OEM size ralleye's with polyglass rubber soon and selling the set I have soon (less than 50 feet of wear!). Lastly those two red red wires off the column plug for the ignition are interchangeable if anyone else runs into that issue.
So this weekend I met with some of my local cuda support group;
My body guy that did the rear quarter hard top to convertible conversion came over to align the doors and help with the billboards. Bad news was the alignment wasn't so simple and he'll need some time with it at his shop, so the billboards will have to wait. But I did get some more info on that conversion and he said that the upper roof pillar also needed to be massaged, as well as under the forward belt molding. He said that if you had an experienced body guy that they could look at the two quarters and figure it out.
Another buddy went over the car and I made a list of all the items that were still missing or incorrect. Thankfully it wasn't too long. One nagging thing (that I had also battled with already) was the gap in the steering column where you could see the the innards (a couple millimeters of space showing at an angle). Spent the weekend re-diagnosing it. We were hoping the spring clip was at a lower groove, thereby making the column splines higher than they should be and giving me room to bring it down and thus the gap as well. Turns out there are no visible grooves further up for the clip to go into so I may have received a longer column or its just hung up some how. Still diagnosing.
I have an odd ball power steering pump set up I guess. So, still sorting out the correct hose/ fitting. My box has a smaller than normal fitting.
Adjusted the shift linkages, dialectic grease on all the connections, installed the clutch safety switch ( I still need the clutch pedal plug and wire loop if anyone has one to sell please PM me), filled with break in oil, waiting on tranny oil (thanks for all the suggestions), filled a couple gallons of gas, filled with coolant... I think I may try to start it (not drive it) without the steering pump attached since that's the main hold up at this point. Started hooking up a tach... overall it seems to be going ok? I keep checking underneath expecting to find a pool of fluid.
So, long story short, I haven't tried turning it over yet but we are still close.
:fingerscrossed:
Well, to recap on some past bumps in the road...
4 speed stuck, won't go into neutral. Turned out the shaft had been pressed into a soft bushing probably during ups transit so Brewers and a friend who works closely with them thought that might be the issue and he applied some steady pressure to the shaft and sure enough she unseated and now rotates in neutral. I had visions of having to pull the tranny.
Crush can was not seating. Well, I compared it to my original column, and turns out I was supplied with the wrong length crush can. Cleaned up the old one and we're good to go. I guess be aware that there are different lengths and the horn ring is inset more on one.
I ended up making a jig to reproduce the clutch switch loops. Took the better part of a day but the end product was darn near perfect.
Steering pump hose was sorted out. It was an odd ball reduction. Pump still doesn't work though. Im guessing its the pressure valve. I know its not working because...
We ran the engine through the first break in period. To hear a car run for the first time after working on it for almost 7 years is a special day. I didn't realize how loud the stock exhaust was! After I address some electrical gremlins we will dial it in. Probably in a week or two.
:woohoo: :congrats: Congratulations on getting it running. That's a BIG step and a huge accomplishment. :clapping:
Yes congrats ! That thing has come a long way since it left my driveway. I can't believe it's been 7 years already.
Quote from: Crocha617 on September 21, 2018, 11:20:12 AM
Yes congrats ! That thing has come a long way since it left my driveway. I can't believe it's been 7 years already.
Can't believe I didn't buy it...
How about stand back and take some pictures of the whole car done :veryexcited:
Thanks!
Yeah, I looked it up and it was about 6 1/2 or more years ago we met in your driveway. Time flys when you're having fun and this build has been My fun and therapy ever since.
I expected to run into a few road blocks but it was pretty smooth sailing all the way through to the engine run up. I was shocked and was expecting something to go wrong at every point in the process. No leaks, no smoke, no odd noises... I'm always suspect when things are going too well. It's still a little way from being done but I'll include a shot or two from today. Still have to align the doors, install billboards, rear markers, inner doors, trouble shoot the steering pump, install the proper alternator when it arrives, install the wiper motor when it arrives, swap out wheels and tires, fix some wiring in the lights, and on and on the list goes... but we are a LOT closer than a week ago!
If it didn't go on and on I'm afraid I'd get bored ;)
Wow :banana: congrats on finally reaching the fire up point. That should be a huge motivation bump.
Mike
Looking good !
Aside from a list of issues and things yet to be completed, she saw sunlight for the first time in about 4 years this week! I even drove up and down my street for a little test ride. That yellow really pops out on a bright day :lookatthat:
I'm still dealing with electrical, and the still mia wiper motor, and this winter the doors get aligned, paving the way for the billboards and completion by the spring. :fingerscrossed:
Its been a long road but one I've enjoyed and on par with the length of my last restoration. Some before and after photos that I've been comparing for fun...
And the paint in the sunlight...
Very nice!
:banana:
I love the before and after shots. Give yourself a pat on the back.
Looks really sweet Mike, wish I had of bought it.... :crying:
Looks Nice!
And you have a Scout II.
I miss my old Scout. :'(
After a couple months of shake down she seems to be running pretty good. Having fun with it and driving it to local meets and ice cream with the family. Mission accomplished. Just finished a detailing before the largest show I'm likely to attend this summer; the Budweiser plant show in Merrimack NH if anyone in the area is planning on attending, see you there.
Mike
Some recent pictures....
...
Looks really great Mile ! :twothumbsup:
You did a nice job on it. Enjoy it now.
Chris is probably going to want that one back now... :twothumbsup:
Great job.
Beautiful save. And nice job on the steering wheel. I just boxed up my rim blow to send in for restoration.
Quote from: Mymcodebee on August 04, 2019, 12:35:09 PM
Chris is probably going to want that one back now... :twothumbsup:
Great job.
Yup send it on down. I have plenty of space for it.
Congrats on it being on the road now! I can't wait for my first fire up. Its Mike right lol
Quote from: Wayne on August 05, 2019, 04:31:01 AM
Congrats on it being on the road now! I can't wait for my first fire up. Its Mike right lol
Met a guy at the Budweiser show yesterday said he sold you a ton of cuda stuff a while back. He was really surprised to find out my cuda was the same one he saw in your garage a decade ago :unbelievable:
Over 500 cars yesterday. 2 AARs and maybe 5 cuda total. Another 5 or so challengers. Awesome show.
Quote from: Crocha617 on August 05, 2019, 04:16:13 AM
Quote from: Mymcodebee on August 04, 2019, 12:35:09 PM
Chris is probably going to want that one back now... :twothumbsup:
Great job.
Yup send it on down. I have plenty of space for it.
Oops. Hit the wrong quote link. Amazing and scary to think I work in the tech field.
Mike
The car looks GREAT :bradsthumb:
And only 7 years.
I pulled my A66 vert out of storage after a 34 year sleep, 4 years ago to get it together.
That means I still have hope.
All kidding aside; Best of Luck with her!