E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
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#1
B
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by bdschnei - Today at 10:04:26 AMMay sound simple but...Check your grounds. Sounds like it could be a bad main ground that's building resistance as you drive until it gets to the point where it's impeding current flow to the coil. Since the starter requires even more current to operate it won't crank until the resistance in the ground circuit decreases by cooling off. You could temporarily route an additional ground cable directly from the battery to the engine to see if it makes a difference.
#2
Thank you I will start on it tonight
#3
Parts / Misc For Sale / Small Block, 90 Degree Oil Fil...
Last post by nonfish - Today at 06:20:19 AMSelling this 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter.
It was the original factory installed one from my AAR.
I removed it and installed a DC aluminum on the engine back in 1983. It has been sitting ever since.
Date code: 2 03 0
Casting # 2951995
Selling for $95 + shipping cost
Payment by a US Postal Money Order or by PayPal "friends & family"
It was the original factory installed one from my AAR.
I removed it and installed a DC aluminum on the engine back in 1983. It has been sitting ever since.
Date code: 2 03 0
Casting # 2951995
Selling for $95 + shipping cost
Payment by a US Postal Money Order or by PayPal "friends & family"
#4
Parts / Misc For Sale / Re: 1970/71 Challenger REAR VA...
Last post by Caparco - Today at 05:20:39 AMIs this still available if so please message me thanks
#5
Is there a bike somewhere in that first pic? Nice job!
#6
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Whats your fav 70's rims ...
Last post by chargerdon - Today at 04:57:55 AMThey make 17" rally wheels that are of course period correct, and also 17" Magnum 500's that are also a period correct favorite of mine
#7
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 20, 2024, 08:48:05 PMfrom my experience that would be close to perfectThanks a lot for this feedback. Just out of curiosity - have you had any such retrofits done and have you experienced this exhaust size on some car?
#8
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Whats your fav 70's rims ...
Last post by Duodec - May 20, 2024, 09:26:02 PMI always liked slot mags, but had a soft spot for the look of Cragar S/S wheels and a deep aversion to unilug and the cost.
My car came with Mercury Cougar mags which look like S/S but were chromed steel. I later replaced them with a set of Appliance Steel Spoke wheels, which are also S/S clones in steel. Got offered good money by a Cougar driver for the Cougar mags.
My car came with Mercury Cougar mags which look like S/S but were chromed steel. I later replaced them with a set of Appliance Steel Spoke wheels, which are also S/S clones in steel. Got offered good money by a Cougar driver for the Cougar mags.
#9
from my experience that would be close to perfect
#10
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by Chryco Psycho - May 20, 2024, 08:46:51 PMFuel & ign problems can often be confused
Fuel side - lean which seems most obvious to me as you say it stop if you add more fuel , so fuel level & jetting are the first things to check , I find if you are running stock fuel pump increasing the fuel level slightly really helps on Eddy carbs , eddys are also notoriusly lean out of the box & float levels are never close .
Exhaust leak is another possibilty this can change with throttle .
Ign side , weak spring on the points causing floating but would not change with throttle , Weak coil usually breaks down under more load not less but still possible , not enough coil voltage , poor Ign wires , wrong gap / heat range Cold / poor make , NGK is the worst they love to misfire & foul
I always runmax timing at idle & limit advance curve , without causing pinging , typically the best is to set your timing near max RPM at idle then hold the rpm at around 3000 rpm & see how much timing you have to back off to get it to run its best , if you have an adjustable timing light you should get 2 number around 16* & 38* , mechanical advance should get you close by itself , maybe add a few degrees of vacuum or just leave it disconnected .
Fuel side - lean which seems most obvious to me as you say it stop if you add more fuel , so fuel level & jetting are the first things to check , I find if you are running stock fuel pump increasing the fuel level slightly really helps on Eddy carbs , eddys are also notoriusly lean out of the box & float levels are never close .
Exhaust leak is another possibilty this can change with throttle .
Ign side , weak spring on the points causing floating but would not change with throttle , Weak coil usually breaks down under more load not less but still possible , not enough coil voltage , poor Ign wires , wrong gap / heat range Cold / poor make , NGK is the worst they love to misfire & foul
I always runmax timing at idle & limit advance curve , without causing pinging , typically the best is to set your timing near max RPM at idle then hold the rpm at around 3000 rpm & see how much timing you have to back off to get it to run its best , if you have an adjustable timing light you should get 2 number around 16* & 38* , mechanical advance should get you close by itself , maybe add a few degrees of vacuum or just leave it disconnected .