I have power brakes and would be interested to know what all is involved to convert manual. Beyond removing the booster and swapping the master cylinder, any other parts or process I need to go through?
Not much to it, m/c pushrod and don't forget the firewall reinforcement plate to help stiffen things up there.
I went from Power to Manual and wish I still had Power given it's current street-duty. I made that choice back when I was 18 or so, I knew it all, right? :pokeeye:
It's an easy swap. You need the firewall reinforcing plate and either a manual brake push rod or an adjustable push rod. Buy a 15/16" master cylinder and you'll wonder why you didn't make the swap sooner.
I've converted both my Challenger and my Duster over to manual disk brakes using DoctorDiff's 15/16" master cylinder and I wouldn't go back. The pedal effort isn't that much heavier, and the pedal feel is dramatically better.
My last 4 Hemi Cars have been manual brakes and I see no need for a power booster. The effort isn't much more and you can modulate the brakes with better feel I think. If you have a Hemi it's so much faster to adjust the valves without the booster too.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on March 20, 2019, 07:30:42 PM
My last 4 Hemi Cars have been manual brakes and I see no need for a power booster. The effort isn't much more and you can modulate the brakes with better feel I think. If you have a Hemi it's so much faster to adjust the valves without the booster too.
Hello from the okanogan, and you didn't want to drop the extra dimes on a hemi booster! come on buddy tell the truth. LOL
Quote from: MoparCar on March 20, 2019, 04:42:15 PM
@303 Mopar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/303-mopar_7) Why are you considering going to manual? Is this on your 6.4L Cuda? Are you presently running a vacuum booster?
Just curious. I've been going back and forth on my 6.1L build as to whether to go vacuum or bite the bullet and do a hydra boost. Now it makes me question the power vs. manual.
Thanks, Wes
Hey Wes, yes it's for my Cuda with a 392 Hemi which lacks enough vacuum for power brakes with stock booster. I drove my friends Challenger with a hydro-boost set up and the brakes are very sensitive but they stop really good, maybe too good. I have two cars with manual disc and love the feel, so this is why I was thinking of possibly going this way.
Everyone else, thanks for the responses. I've contacted Cass at Doctor Diff to price out the parts.
Not the best picture, but if you could use a cut file, I made up this firewall reinforcement for my car. The factory one is plain ugly under the hood. :alan2cents:
This is 3pc 1/4" steel that is TIG welded along the edges, it's quite robust.
Another + for manual brakes! Granted I upgraded to disc years ago and fine tuned then by way of the block. Minimally more effort.... and easier to work on the elephant
I must have the wrong MC form mine then...I have manual brakes and the pedal effort is very high! I don tlike it at all.
Maybe I should look at the size of the MC!
Jason
Quote from: Cudajason on February 12, 2020, 05:19:45 PM
I must have the wrong MC form mine then...I have manual brakes and the pedal effort is very high! I don tlike it at all.
Maybe I should look at the size of the MC!
Jason
You can get lower effort for sure, but you will trade pedal stroke for it.
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Dr Diff has everything you will need? 1 stop shopping?
https://www.doctordiff.com/70-74-mopar-b-e-body-firewall-stiffening-plate.html
https://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html
This might prove useful as well?
https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/RacingMasterCylPN.html
hmmmm, I wonder If I am using the right pushrod. I am pretty sure that I used a stock manual pushrod, but maybe I used the push rod from the power break set up.
I have the new style MC as pictured in the link.
Jason
Quote from: Cudajason on February 12, 2020, 07:21:57 PM
hmmmm, I wonder If I am using the right pushrod. I am pretty sure that I used a stock manual pushrod, but maybe I used the push rod from the power break set up.
I have the new style MC as pictured in the link.
Jason
Call or email Cass @Dr Diff he is great for help. Maybe he can shed some light on it :tool:
Quote from: Cudajason on February 12, 2020, 07:21:57 PM
hmmmm, I wonder If I am using the right pushrod. I am pretty sure that I used a stock manual pushrod, but maybe I used the push rod from the power break set up.
I have the new style MC as pictured in the link.
Jason
Pushrod just affects the pedal height, not the effort.
That said, you should ensure that your pushrod is properly restrained. The factory manual pushrods have a rubber grommet to keep the pushrod from coming out if you lift the pedal.
If you are driving, bump the pedal up and your pushrod comes out...it won't end well!
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Quote from: Cudajason on February 12, 2020, 07:21:57 PM
hmmmm, I wonder If I am using the right pushrod. I am pretty sure that I used a stock manual pushrod, but maybe I used the push rod from the power break set up.
I have the new style MC as pictured in the link.
Jason
Pushrod just affects the pedal height, not the effort.
That said, you should ensure that your pushrod is properly restrained. The factory manual pushrods have a rubber grommet to keep the pushrod from coming out if you lift the pedal.
If you are driving, bump the pedal up and your pushrod comes out...it won't end well!
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Very cool. I converted mine to hydroboost several years ago.
No regrets.
A photo for reference...