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#1
avatar_anlauto
General Topics / Re: HOT RODS,RAT RODS,CUSTOMS,...
Last post by anlauto - Today at 12:53:11 PM
Front marker lights, but no rears, that's odd  :drunk:
#2
Are you going drag racing ? or road course racing ?
#3
avatar_anlauto
Parts / Misc For Sale / Re: Parts going to Chrysler @ ...
Last post by anlauto - Today at 12:48:46 PM
 :twothumbsup:
#4
avatar_anlauto
Body Shop / Re: Grill / fender gap? 71 cud...
Last post by anlauto - Today at 12:47:47 PM
The only thing to try is loosing the entire grill and move it over to the passenger side...you would likely have to oblong the center holes in the grill and you may have to adjust the headlight assemblies at the same time...
#5
avatar_bentpshrods
Body Shop / Re: Grill / fender gap? 71 cud...
Last post by bentpshrods - Today at 10:33:13 AM
    Just went out and looked at mine. The gap (bottom arrow) looks about the same. I have a 1/4 to 3/8 gap on both sides. The gap between the C chrome and fender on mine is a bit tighter, almost touching the fender at the point and slightly wider at the top. I also don't see how you would tighten this gap without a whole lot of work. 
#6
V
Parts / Misc For Sale / Parts going to Chrysler @ Carl...
Last post by VCODE - Today at 09:55:00 AM
Come to Vendor Spot M130 ask for Bob
Free delivery to Carlisle.
Anyone interested in these parts please PM or Text me at 914-843-9617 for more info and pictures if needed.
All E Body Parts for sale:

TA Complete Used Exhaust System. Good for a Survivor or Driver. $750.00
70 Challenger Convertible Brand New Seat Covers. Black $650.00
Challenger Carpet Brand New $65.00
72-74 Challenger Headliner Brand New 4 Bow Black $80.00
70 Used 904 Transmission and TC out of a 318 and was running. Selling as a core $100.00
Later Front End: Larger Spindles, Calipers, Brackets, Rotors, Bolts $400.00
70-71 Set of 440 Heads with Valves and Springs $100.00
78 318 Heads ? $60.00
8-3/4 Used Rear Complete with Axles, Backing Plates, Drums $250.00
And lots More
Thanks Bob
#7
Thanks for confirming I'm not trying to charge too much, knowing what I know now I would of paid 1500 for this, considering time, welding wire, transporting the 18' long segments.
#8
This is the only correct brake linkage for a 70 E body. Its the only arm the has a groove around it for the anti rattle spring and has E stamp on it. It is also the only one piece all welded together.
#9
Quote from: EV2RTSE on Today at 07:31:16 AM
Quote from: 1970 cuda Joe on April 27, 2024, 11:15:06 AMQuestion: This car has 11x2.5 finned rear drum brakes & stock disc on the front. I can't find anything that says this system was offered on a 1970 cuda. Am I missing something? Thank you, Joe 

In '70 when front discs were ordered the rear drums were 10", I believe, unless AAR or T/A then they were 11". Your brake pivot assembly looks to be a later style, I didn't realize that there is apparently a difference between 71-72 and 73-74 until I looked at that Brewer's link but I know for '70 the pivot assembly used nuts & bolts instead of cotter pins like yours has. If you could post a pic of your booster I'd be interested in seeing the #s on it, might be able to figure out what it came off of originally. A 1970 booster has 8550 stamped on the bottom under 'Bendix' along with the football shaped opening around the pushrod. 




I do have the 8550 booster you mentioned & I just purchased the pivot from Brewers. He didn't have the "dog bone" that goes to the pedal or the 3" long bushing for the mounted end. I have the dog bone for the 1971 (narrow). The picture of the pivot isn't mine, just a sample so people would know what I'm talking about. I will find a 3" bushing today, Bring those harness up to where they need to be. I just need to figure the mounting of the rectangular tab on the 4 speed trans harness...Thank you, Joe
 
#10
F
Electrical & Audio / Re: Wiring For Petronix Conver...
Last post by floorit426 - Today at 08:28:27 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on Today at 05:15:05 AMThe instructions for the Pertronix system clearly state you need 12V to the pertronix , everyone makes the mistake of connecting to the coil which only has 7v , this will kill the Pertronix unit . It must be connected to the 12v side of the ballast .

I was told to bypass the ballast resistor. Shouldn't that provide 12 volts? I'm registering 0 volts, to the coil. That is why I think I have an open circuit somewhere, caused by the old ecu and distributor connectors being open being open.