E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
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#21
I have one also let me know if you don't purchase one from the previous posters. Thx
Dave
Dave
#22
1
Cuda & Challenger General Discussion (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: Ride height
Last post by 1970 cuda Joe - Today at 06:28:40 AMThank you for posting it this way. It actually is a little clearer for me. I'm almost at that point where I need to address that problem. The alignment guy wants me to get the ride height correct before he aligns it for the bias-ply tires. Thank you, Joe
#23
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by 70Challenger440 - Today at 06:18:25 AMQuote from: Brads70 on Today at 06:09:47 AMTiming or exhaust leak when it gets up to temp?
As to an exhaust leak. (maybe not) ... note when it does begin to back-fire it loses significant engine power, and will stumble until I hit the gas harder, which makes the backfires stop and power resume.
#24
Timing or exhaust leak when it gets up to temp?
#25
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by 70Challenger440 - Today at 06:02:27 AMQuote from: torredcuda on Today at 05:41:06 AMBackfiring is usually caused by timing, ignition or fuel issue (lean), could also be getting too hot. Do you have an accurate, working temp gage? You need to check for fuel and spark/ignition voltage when it is acting up to narrow it down. When were rubber fuel hoses replaced last as they can collapse inside? Coils can get weak when hot.
Yes there is a working temp gauge. Temps are fine. The weather has been in the 50s here so not too hot either. The fuel hoses are about 5 years old as is the carb (edlebrock). The car has a new fuel tank also 5 years old. The car ran well and had a tune-up about 1000 miles ago. I drive this car enough that it doesn't sit either (about 2k miles a year). Since March I put a few hundred miles on it running very well. Then this started to just happen last week.
I usually just let my mechanic fix my cars, but this is a time when I think due to the intermittent circumstance I must check it myself when it occurs. I do have tools and a volt-meter etc (and am willing to buy any test device you suggest). I am more handy painting cars and interior work. Embarrassingly could you please, tell how I go about checking what you suggest. I will gladly continue to answer any questions you have. I am just not a good trouble-shooter and this might be a great crash course for me to learn so please bear with me.
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Don't forget the oddity I mentioned when this occurs which might be very significant ... if I turn off the car, it won't be able to even crank the engine for an hour, and then cranks fine and starts as normal.
#26
Thanks for posting. Lots of e bodies there.
#27
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Wheel Bearing Size and man...
Last post by Mark_B - Today at 05:56:43 AMI did a bit of digging and found out the 1970 A66 Challenger had the R/T heavy duty 11" drums. I measured them at 11" too. So I've order Timken's from Rockauto.
Thanks for your help and recommendations.
Thanks for your help and recommendations.
#28
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by torredcuda - Today at 05:41:06 AMBackfiring is usually caused by timing, ignition or fuel issue (lean), could also be getting too hot. Do you have an accurate, working temp gage? You need to check for fuel and spark/ignition voltage when it is acting up to narrow it down. When were rubber fuel hoses replaced last as they can collapse inside? Coils can get weak when hot.
#29
Quote from: Cuda_mark on May 13, 2024, 02:22:33 AMAre they the same in 71 as the 70? I have a set for a 70.
Hi Mark pm sent
#30
Electrical & Audio / Intermittent problem with Back...
Last post by 70Challenger440 - Today at 03:08:41 AMMy 1969 Barracuda 383 has developed an intermittent drive-ability problem. (I know it isn't an E-body, but this is the only forum I am a member of for Cuda's and Challengers so hopefully you will still help me). The car is completely stock and has points. The car will start and run fine, but at some point after about driving 40+ minutes will begin to, on part throttle, make little multiple minor pop backfires. If you hit the gas a little harder it won't backfire but you can feel the engine is not running at it's 'usual" best. Then if you turn the car off, it won't be able to immediately restart as if the battery is weak (which its not). The ignition will just 'tick' but can't turn the engine over. If I try to restart it an hour later, the car will run perfectly again for another 40 to 80 minutes until it reoccurs. An electrical shop says they can find no shorts nor get the problem to happen for them due to how it occurs. I can tell they see it as too ambiguous to be worth their trouble. I will also try to find another place willing to work on this type of issue.
The parts on these cars are inexpensive and easy to replace. In a worst case scenario where it can't be determined the cause, what are all the parts to blindly replace and in what order? I assume the voltage regulators (both dash and firewall), ballast, coil, & points, first all at once to save time. Then the distributor, alternator, fuel-pump, carb one at a time. I bet I missed some parts, what are they? Thanks for your help and any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The parts on these cars are inexpensive and easy to replace. In a worst case scenario where it can't be determined the cause, what are all the parts to blindly replace and in what order? I assume the voltage regulators (both dash and firewall), ballast, coil, & points, first all at once to save time. Then the distributor, alternator, fuel-pump, carb one at a time. I bet I missed some parts, what are they? Thanks for your help and any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
