I thought this might prove useful to someone else down the road so I thought I'd make this post.
I had bought this radiator 3 years ago. It was an e-bay purchase from a seller selling surplus/used Nascar take off's. This rad was built for a Craftsman Supertruck but never used. I modified it for my purposes and it did an OK job of cooling my 451" stroker, until it started leaking last fall. I did make rubber mounts but I'm guessing they were not allowing enough flex and thus caused the leak. I'll remedy that when I install it.
I removed it from the car and rigged up a pressure tester and found it to be leaking from the tubes to the tanks. That area can't be accessed to be welded so it was either I try some stop leak products, scrap the rad or I had this motorcycle tank epoxy sealer kit from another project that I never did use. So I though "meh" what the heck nothing to loose? My concern is how this epoxy works with heat?
Remains to be seen I guess, time will tell? Nothing to loose at this point.
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
I used brake cleaner and compressed air to clean it best I could , then mixed half the kit up and poured it into the tank area. It is raised so it acts like a cup to hold about 1/8" of epoxy. I let it harden overnight then flipped it over to do the other side.
Great piece! Hope it works.
Is there anything you can't do? :bigthumb: Let us know how it turns out.
Great job there. Hope it holds up for you. My tale ended up being scrap and replace.
As for allowing more flex from your mounting to the core support. I have seen a setup where they rubber mounted fairly solid the bottom bolts. They then used a rubber grommet (same on bottom bolts) that sandwich rad to core support. But utilized a longer bolt with washer and heavy spring (like a die spring). Bolt was sleeved so you could still tighten it without fully collapsing spring. Shoulder bolt may even work.
You would keep tension but not be solid.
Good luck
Well it held 20psi overnight so I installed it today and let if run for 1/2 hour or so. No leaks and it's holding pressure. (for now?) If I was a betting man I'd say a new rad is in my future but time will tell? Not sure how well the epoxy will hold up with the heat? I poured a silver dollar sized blob and let it harden for a couple days. I then boiled some water and stuck it in. It seemed to keep it's shape but it did soften up and become somewhat flexible?
I found some rubber bumpers at Princess Auto that were just the right height to support the bottom. I then went to a wrecking yard and found these cool rubber grommets on various Mercedes and used them between the rad and the mounting surface. I can wiggle the rad now so maybe that will help?
It will help for sure.
I am thinking the epoxy will hold up OK :wrenching:
Interesting approach. I'm anxious to see how it holds up.
Back in the brass days, I'd just heat up an area with a map gas torch, clean it with flux, and then brush solder into the seam. Given the tempermental nature of aluminum and its small window of heat tolerance, I'd think home repairs on these are limited to epoxy.
Yes, that's a troublesome spot to repair too.
No good it leaks ..... scrap rad. :tired: It was worth a try I guess...
Ordered this as a replacement.... should be here Friday.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cir-802-31191/overview/
Dang: Oh well it was worth trying for sure.
Quote from: Brads70 on June 21, 2017, 05:00:15 PM
No good it leaks ..... scrap rad. :tired: It was worth a try I guess...
Ordered this as a replacement.... should be here Friday.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cir-802-31191/overview/
Well at least you gave it the old college try. The shop that repaired my original 26" radiator said that the aluminum radiators in old muscle cars are only good for 2-3 years (obviously depending on how much you drive them) because they flex too much and end up breaking the welds. Don't know if he's smoking his socks or not, but it's a reputable shop that been around a long time. :dunno: Just passing along what he said. In the meantime, I'm hoping my 4 row 26 incher keeps my 512 stroker cool in traffic or I'll be biting the bullet for an aluminum one also. :bigmoney: So far it kept it at normal all through the 30 minutes break in run and now while idling. So here's keeping my fingers crossed.
Ok I have to assume where you stated in your first post that the area CAN be accessed to weld . . . You actually meant it cannot be accessed or you would of welded it. I sat there wondering why you tried that route instead of welding it.
:unbelievable:
Quote from: Spikedog08 on June 21, 2017, 07:10:48 PM
Ok I have to assume where you stated in your first post that the area CAN be accessed to weld . . . You actually meant it cannot be accessed or you would of welded it. I sat there wondering why you tried that route instead of welding it.
:unbelievable:
Your correct ! I edited my post should have said "Can't" :-[
Sorry to hear.
It sounded like a good plan.
Is replacement the same as what you are removing?
To combat flex, i have mine setting in a cushioned lower bracket with the top being held in place with brackets. In essence it is somewhat free floating.
Similar to how old Mustang setups were with their larger radiators.
In general, our old cars are a lot more bendy than many new cars. I could see chassis flex leading to radiator issues if they are mounted semi-rigidly. In this case, Brad has done considerable work to eliminate flex. Not sure how rigidly the radiator was mounted through.
I took a page from the GM playbook with my radiator mount and used reproduction rubber saddles that sit on the tank to core seam on both the top and bottom. Time will tell if this was a good approach or not.
So Brad, How do you mount that one? when I bought mine from Mancini's, it was a direct fit and came with a shroud . . . :dunno:
Quote from: Spikedog08 on June 22, 2017, 08:33:17 AM
So Brad, How do you mount that one? when I bought mine from Mancini's, it was a direct fit and came with a shroud . . . :dunno:
I'll let you know when it arrives? Not sure yet, I'm assuming I'll be able to mount it in rubber like previous rads I've had in the car. Might have to whittle up some parts/mounts?
Quote from: Brads70 on June 22, 2017, 08:36:48 AM
Quote from: Spikedog08 on June 22, 2017, 08:33:17 AM
So Brad, How do you mount that one? when I bought mine from Mancini's, it was a direct fit and came with a shroud . . . :dunno:
I'll let you know when it arrives? Not sure yet, I'm assuming I'll be able to mount it in rubber like previous rads I've had in the car. Might have to whittle up some parts/mounts?
Well from experience, if anyone can do it . . . you can! :worship:
Quote from: HP2 on June 22, 2017, 06:13:13 AM
In general, our old cars are a lot more bendy than many new cars. I could see chassis flex leading to radiator issues if they are mounted semi-rigidly. In this case, Brad has done considerable work to eliminate flex. Not sure how rigidly the radiator was mounted through.
I took a page from the GM playbook with my radiator mount and used reproduction rubber saddles that sit on the tank to core seam on both the top and bottom. Time will tell if this was a good approach or not.
:iagree:
Also factor in at least double the HP/Torque from factory and good sticky rubber , mounting the rad in with lots of wiggle room/flex is a must. This last rad I'd say that is what killed it. While I did have it mounted with rubber wellnuts , it just wasn't enough flex. Expensive lesson learned ..... hopefully others will learn from this.
Remember to isolate any electrical current going through it but I remember you already used rubber mounts for your last one.
:bigthumb:
Quote from: Spikedog08 on June 22, 2017, 08:33:17 AM
So Brad, How do you mount that one? when I bought mine from Mancini's, it was a direct fit and came with a shroud . . . :dunno:
While wandering around a local wrecking yard I noticed most cars now mount the rads on pins floating in rubber bushings. So I got 4 bushings and made my own pin mounts that will be pop riveted to the new rad housing. This was today's progress. I'll build a platform to mount the bushings on later, and a top mount plate that bolts onto existing holes . I'll make use of my dimple dies for that one. Need some material first....
That does it: Next time I go through life I am coming back as a Machinist, if only you could get rich at it.
And of course you should have made two sets.
Finally got some time to finish this up. Whittled up the top mounts and plate. Just need to gear up an overflow tube and I'm done!
Awesome work as usual this will extend the life of the new unit :bigthumb:
Great Job on the new radiator Brad . :worship: ... As to the old one did you look into epoxy for aluminum A/C condensers? Put a slight vacuum on it is what an old timer told me was the trick..
No better satisfaction than making it yourself.