Hello,I have a 1970 RT/SE go mango with a white vinyl top and white bumble bee strip.non numbers matching 383 A/T. I paid $2500 for it complete but in pieces.
I've had this car for 29 years,it's been put on the back burner many times.a guy who I met in 1982 at work(Gulfsteam aerospace) in Savannah Ga,we both were machinist.he had a 70 TA.he ended up leaving GAC and opening up a restoration shop.the floor pans and trunk were replaced before he came and picked it up many years after leaving GAC.the 1st picture is as it was when he picked it up.I was one of his 1st customers,and knowing him personally I knew he was very meticulous,as most machinist are.As you will see when I got it back from him in 2009 it was a rust free shell.He knows(or did at the time)some guys from AMD which is near his shop.we ate lunch with these guys one day,and I went in the warehouse at AMD and pick my sheetmetal. That was in 2008.they wanted to use my car to test fit some new fenders.I'll post some pictures of them later.
Very nice. Good to see you have the rear window plug and window!! That is a killer color combo too.
I'm assuming the interior is also white to match the top and bumble bee stripe?
It's amazing how a little sheet metal changes the looks drastically. Can't wait to see more.
Nice car! Welcome from Northern Ontario Canada.
These are the guys from AMD,test fitting their fender.I'm reusing my fenders and doors.their fender is the one in black primer.they threw in a set of door hinges for me letting them use my car.that was in 2008
Also since you brought it up here is a shot of the window plug after I did some fiberglass repair.I know bondo would have filled in the gaps,but I'm not that guy.
The interior came black,and for financial reasons will stay that way
Good luck and keep us posted with lots of photos!
How do you plan on filling the indentations in the rear window plug (where the screws are)? I tried to do mine the way the factory did, struggled through more than one vinyl top, then bondo'd the plug in. I would recommend doing that way the first time. Good body filler like Rage Gold is easy to work with.
I was going to bondo it.I thought that's how it came from the factory.of course I wouldn't think you would want to fill it all at once.my brother is my paint guy,so I was going to let him worry about it.
The factory did not bondo in the rear window plug. They used a kind of gauze-like fabric that no one makes anymore. I tried some felt-like material and some rubber mat type material but I wasn't happy with either of them. I believe bondo is the way to go. It just makes removing the window plug very difficult but I figured I would never have to remove it. :cheers:
FYI-I am by no means financially wealthy.having said that I will tell you that patients has been my friend.my wife is very budget minded,and I'm ok with that,so my overtime money has always been my play money unless something unforeseen occurs.over the 27 years I have saved my money until I had enough to do whatever was next on the list.The 1st thing I bought was this taillight and reverse light assembly for $375 out of hemmings motor news before the internet was invented.I called the guy on a land line.felt convenient enough after talking to the guy that I mailed him a check,then he shipped the lights.
powder coated my suspension,new in line tube fuel lines(2 lines1 return for EFI)in line tube complete brake line kit,Complete M&H wiring harness.generic 4 wheel disc brake kit,hotchkis Suspension,vintage air.sent my rallye cluster out for complete calibration,and refaced.all new glass from AMD.bumper have been rechromed.TTI headers and complete 3" exhaust system.I rebuilt the steering column using Cuda Cody's how-to video.
Stay tuned more to come
Looking great!! Purists? Who cares?? It's your car, build it your way.... At least it's getting done...And by the looks of things it's getting done very well.... :cheers:
Welcome to the site , Cool project !
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on June 07, 2021, 07:35:28 PM
Looking great!! Purists? Who cares?? It's your car, build it your way.... At least it's getting done...And by the looks of things it's getting done very well.... :cheers:
I agree. If that's the way you want the car done, I say have at it. You will be happy to have the 4 wheel discs and the suspension upgrades will make it more enjoyable on the street. I like the way you are doing it.
:welcome: To The home of the ebody great to have you here , Nice project 27 years is a long time but it looks like it's moving along well .cheers :australia:
:welcome: to the site from Netherlands!
Looking great! Good luck and keep us posted! :twothumbsup:
Looks like you got a lot done, nice :bigthumb:
I think adding theses will help with the handling
I did some fiberglass repair on the headliner.I used the good side cutout for the sun visors to make a pattern (mirror image)to use to trim the repair .as you will see I like to test fit things.I have never been this far into a restoration,and most of this stuff I didn't take apart.thats why I love this forum
My old sail panels had seen better days.when I made these I don't think they had a reproduction.If they did I didn't know. I made them from 3/16" fiberboard (like cardboard only fiberglass used a lot in aviation)I used my old sail panels to shape the contour.you see where I made a series of cuts on one side of the panel to allow it to bent.then I fiberglassed over it so it would hold that shape.I did sand the roughness off the fiberglass for a smooth enough surface.the material that used on the headliner has a 1/8" foam backing,which should help smooth things out
I purchased a cheap($550+)plastic core dash pad that I ruined trying to get my a/c vents to fit with a heat gun.I should have returned it.so I then decided to just buy a $150 plastic cover type.I still had my original pad that I used to mount it on.Sorry I didn't take any detailed pictures of mounting the aftermarket speakers or where I filled in,and sanded low areas using spray foam.I had to use a heat gun to get the vents to set in flush.maybe later I can justify spending more $ on a good quality pad.for now this will roll
Vent repair. A 1993 ram d250 donated a vent fin that I modified to work.I also had fab a tab for the pull push door control. I fabricated the tab out of a similar type of plastic.if you notice it on the drill bit I left small tabs to use as a base to bond to.Of course I had to totally remove the old one.the center fin isn't correct,but it works
The guts of my overhead light fixture was missing,I had a few regular light fixtures with the wiring harness. I also found out that the sport fury lens would work if I did this.epoxy and foil tape is what I used to bond it together.It won't have a switch on the light fixture as original,but it will work.
Test fitting a few things
My brother is my painter,he sprayed the underside of car, firewalls, door jams,bottom of hood,trunk ect.plans are to get it together,get it running,and then spray the outside.
Awesome car.... You do nice work with what you can afford. I'm in that boat too except working on a drivable car instead of a restoration
I've been working on straightening,and polishing the stainless trim.I've never done this before,but I watched a few videos.practice and patience.I also freshened up the grill.I had to drill the holes in the new quarters and roof shell,plus I wanted to test fit the trim before final paint
Great thread, awesome car.
You are mastering all the skills too. Keep it up.
I used u-pol raptor bed liner as an undercoating.I've used this product before,good stuff
That looks awesome, I'm gonna do that my 70 Cuda after seeing this.
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Quote from: ebodyproducts on August 29, 2021, 05:18:32 PM
That looks awesome, I'm gonna do that my 70 Cuda after seeing this.
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If you wear glasses,use an old pair because they will be ruined after this.
Apply 1st coat ensuring good coverage,stay further away on the 2nd coat for more texture.
Make sure everything is masked off good,this stuff gets everywhere
Headliner sail panels and rear window surround covered
Car is looking great. What kind of front suspension are you going with?
Quote from: Jsand73440 on January 24, 2022, 05:10:47 PM
Car is looking great. What kind of front suspension are you going with?
Hotchkis TVS
I don't know why I hadn't seen this thread before, but when I finally did, I was admiring your addition of the US Cartool's SFC's and torque boxes! You went for the rad support as well and that's the one I didn't do on mine. Overall I'm gobsmacked at your ability to overhaul the many components that you have. Totally great work and I can't wait to see the finished product! Roll on! :twothumbsup:
Great job! Looks amazing! :clapping:
Major changes going on here lately.I sold my 451 stroker,and bought a 2010 5.7 with the nag1 5 speed out of a running/ driving- totaled out Challenger.I'm going to do a gen 3 swap.so I removed the k-frame out of the 70,and made a holding fixture to hold the drivetrain.It's going to make it easier to do everything.I'm using Holley engine mounts,transmission mounts,headers,and power steering pump.
I had to do some dinging on the headers here and there,but everything fit good
I wanted to use the a/c condenser/transmission cooler from the 2010 donor car,so I welded drilled and tapped mounts on the core support .I also made mounts to use the factory 2010 fan on the 1970 radiator
I'm going to use the console and shifter from the 2010.I mounted the shifter as low as possible which left a space from the bottom of the console to the carpet.I made a fiberglass filler ,then covered it with abs plastic that was heated and thermoformed using old school tooling methods.the shifter and console are screwed down with 10-32 screws.the console rest on the tabs on either side of the shifter,and 10-32 screws hold it to the tabs as well as 4 screws in the factory location inside the console compartment.very solid setup
I found the level location of the console using a drink can in the cup holder.
Finished the 3" exhaust-modified the tips to 3" - made a mount for the drive by wire gas pedal
Made a heat shield for the fuel regulator/filter,the heat shield was made from a transmission tunnel shield from a volvo I found in the junkyard.- mounted the battery box out of the donor in the trunk
Quote from: Bobbydodge on December 21, 2022, 05:36:11 PM
I wanted to use the a/c condenser/transmission cooler from the 2010 donor car,so welded drilled and tapped mounts on the core support .I also made mounts to use the factory fan on the 1970 radiator
I like this. I cannot fathom spending $1100 on a radiator! (Roseville lists a custom radiator with the hose connections in the right place for $1180) Plus, using OEM parts makes for easy replacements that don't cost an arm and leg if needed)
I'm going to be using Holley terminator X engine harness and controller.The cardboard glovebox wasn't strong enough to mount the controller so I cut the bottom off-fiberglassed it,and made it flat.
I went with a Dakota digital dash- just couldn't get off the money to have the dash pad recovered at just dash's so this cover will ride.
You got a lot of neat stuff going on there, it's going to be one heck of a car when you're finished :twothumbsup:
I forgot to mention-I changed the cam and lifters timing gears,chain,tensioner to delete the MDS.I used a stock replacement cam,but used hellcat lifters and oil pump for durability.I'm going to be driving this car on a daily basis on regular gas.I really didn't want to open up the "performance"can of worms.that can snow ball into a money pit quickly.
Wheel and tire combo is
15x8 4.5 bs-275/60/15 rear
15x7 -235/60/15 front
American racing wheels with a personal center decal
ooh, I like those tires. I may do the same when I upgrade to 15s. Nice
Beautiful work! This car will be a real show-stopper!
Random, would you consider making/selling the mounting plate for the drive-by-wire pedal? I am about to dive into my 3G hemi swap soon.
Thanks!
Nice work man, really nice!
I made a heat shield for the starter from the same material used for the fuel filter/regulator shield.it's held by 2 radiator hose clamps attached to the header tubes.
I had to modify the mount of the pass side front valance because the a/c drier is in the way of the original mounting holes.