First project is making the grill I got in two pieces into one. I need to do it before taking the front end sheet metal off to make sure it aligns properly. For anyone who missed it here are my old posts about the fire -
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/bad-day-for-the-cuda-updated-pics-of-carnage/7214/msg100211#msg100211
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/my-appraiser-is-a-moron/7549/msg104780#msg104780
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/cuda-fire-update/7939/msg110080#msg110080
What's your plan/method to repair the grill? I have a 72 Challenger header panel that is fiberglass that I want to alter (cut and piece back together) but need a tried and true method.
There are a few different ways to repair plastic grills, I am using fiberglass to repair and strenghten the center area in the back as mine was broken into two halfs and it is a weak spot with these. I will V out the front of the crack and use a two part epoxy to fill it in and then skim with body filler to finish. Your header being fiberglass is pretty straight forward, grind fiberglass mat/resin to repair and sand out then skim with body filler.
Nice to see you working on it again! :twothumbsup:
Quote from: Brads70 on May 24, 2020, 01:30:26 PM
Nice to see you working on it again! :twothumbsup:
Been too long since I`ve driven it. :burnout: Finding the time with the kid having home school and my back holding up are my biggest challenges but I`ll keep at it. I have a long list of wanted upgrades but first need to focus on the needed things.
Nose is off, thinking of adding shock tower braces.
Any chassis reinforcement never hurts :yes:
Quote from: BIGSHCLUNK on May 27, 2020, 09:31:51 AM
Any chassis reinforcement never hurts :yes:
Agreed and also glad you are on it again.
I agree with the other lads about the bracing and would mention that you may want to check out US Cartool's frt apron brace. It's much more substantial and not too hard to put in. I put my money where my mouth is and haven't regretted it yet. Just FYI and my :alan2cents:
Quote from: jimynick on May 27, 2020, 08:56:59 PM
I agree with the other lads about the bracing and would mention that you may want to check out US Cartool's frt apron brace. It's much more substantial and not too hard to put in. I put my money where my mouth is and haven't regretted it yet. Just FYI and my :alan2cents:
I`ve checked out there stuff and already have thier frame connectors. As for thier torque boxes and fender bracing I work in a sheetmetal shop so can make my own as good or better and not pay thier big prices. I will obviuosly add a plate at the cowl and maybe another one near the tower. I`m not trying to bash US car tool as they have a good product and it`s a niche market so volume is low hence the prices.
I could almost get away without pulling the engine and transmission but 4 speed needs a rebuild anyway so out it comes
I see a giant "snowball" in your future :) :bigthumb:
Do the bracing. As long as you have to repaint the engine compartment anyway, this is the time to do it. You will never see the under fender braces and the under radiator brace really holds the frame rails together. Custom made or commercially made braces are better than none. If you want a restored numbers match trailer queen, forget it. If you are doing a driver, you will not regret it and will notice how much better it drives, And wont rattle ever again.
Just a 318 car so not worried about originality on this one. Grill is now one piece, just need to V the crack in front and do finish work.
Excellent. I like repairing original parts when possible rather than phoning for repros.
Quote from: anlauto on May 31, 2020, 08:41:22 AM
I see a giant "snowball" in your future :) :bigthumb:
Ya, I'd really like to strip it right done to a shell and completely redo it but that would take a year or two so just doing what it needs along with a few upgrades and get back to driving it for now.
The grill repair looks great.
Sorry to hear about the fire, so luck with the minimal damage. Look forward to seeing the fabricated braces, always satisfying making parts yourself .
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 31, 2020, 11:12:06 AM
Excellent. I like repairing original parts when possible rather than phoning for repros.
The grill is actually in pretty nice shape other than the break down the center, even the ends are intact.
Glad to see you are back on it!!! :handshake:
Engine, transmission are out now a few decisions to make - rebuild the 833 myself or pay someone and debating whether to drop the a-frame and front suspension out and reinstall from underneath as a complete assembly.
Any good A833 rebuild tutorials out there?
I used the Mopar Muscle March 2004 'how to' article on rebuilding the 833. I also bought a rebuild kit from Jamie Passon. I found it pretty easy.
The only thing that held me up a bit was acquiring bigger snap ring pliers for the large bearings retainers.
Were the larger snap ring pliers the only special tool needed?
Well, a small one foot long piece of 3/4" EMT is very helpful when loading up the little roller bearings.
I have the Mopar muscle magazine I was refering to and if we can't find it online somewhere I can scan it and email it to you if you like.
Hmmm. Found it on HotRod.com archives
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0403-rebuilding-the-a-833-four-speed-tranny/
Could be better out there but this is what I used.
Doing a small project to give my back a break after pulling the drivetrain, custom steering wheel adapter. I wanted a bit more room for my long arms so I cut the factory "coffee can" and made a shorter one at work. I tried a few different lengths and settled on 3 1/2" , stock is 5". This one should give me enough room between wheel and dash and will be more comfortable for me, just need a skim of mud and paint.
:bigthumb: I have a spare one to do the exact same thing with.
Just moved the Barracuda from the garage under the house to my "shop" detached garage to finally really dig into the rebuild from the fire. I also am kind of bored with drag racing and want to try some autocross events next year so handling upgrades are also on the to do list. I need to get motivated as there is a lot to do by springtime!
:wrenching:
Drivers side almost all welded up
On to the passenger side
Thinking of some race inspired stripes
:dunno:
Going to be more work than I hoped, the Neon seats sit too high- head to close to roof and barely any room between legs and steering wheel. I think I can cut down the brackets on the Neon frame and bolt or weld them to the factory brackets and gain enough, time to start cutting I guess.
Quote from: torredcuda on December 24, 2020, 10:24:36 AM
Thinking of some race inspired stripes
I heard they make your car go faster :) :twothumbsup:
Quote from: anlauto on December 29, 2020, 10:47:09 AM
Quote from: torredcuda on December 24, 2020, 10:24:36 AM
Thinking of some race inspired stripes
I heard they make your car go faster :) :twothumbsup:
Racing stripes, chrome accesories and Viper (Neon SRT) seats - my car is gonna be sooooo fast! :yes:
Passenger side mostly welded up
Using the factory slides and bolting or welding onto the SRT frame will get me almost as low as stock seats.
:twothumbsup:
Tracks are tacked on, pretty happy with location, within 1/2" of stock seat.
Drivers seat is done except for painting the frame and sending it out for upholstery. Now that I have figured out how to do it I am going to try and document it. First is to remove the slide mechanism from the SRT frame which is pretty straightforward- just removing bolts and cutting a few welds. Next is to get rid of the gap between seat bun support and frame.
To accomplish that two areas need to be cut, one on the sides of the frame and second is the bump on the bun support, then just redrill the holes for the bolts.
Hopefully you can tell this modification lowers the bun about over 1/2". No more time to work on it today so will continue with how I attached the cuda seat tracks later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExrD6WWw6S0
Just watched the video. Seats look good in there!
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Quote from: Swamp Donkey on January 15, 2021, 09:15:25 PM
Just watched the video. Seats look good in there!
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Can`t wait to see them after I send them to the upholsterer for new covers to match the factory pattern.
Are you going to have the side bolsters made a little smaller, or do they not bother you as get in and out of the car?
Quote from: JonH on January 16, 2021, 07:33:39 AM
Are you going to have the side bolsters made a little smaller, or do they not bother you as get in and out of the car?
I thought about trimming them down a bit but being scrawny I don`t think they will bother me so I`ll probably leave them as is.
Great info! This helps alot. Thanks
What is that round hole in the front core support (passenger side)?
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on January 28, 2021, 11:56:58 AM
What is that round hole in the front core support (passenger side)?
Which one?
Great work on the seats. How difficult was the modification so it would tilt forward more?
I've got a line on a set somewhat local but the driver side bolster is in poor shape on the seat bottom from entering/exiting. I'm not an interior guy, but you've have the cover off, do you think that bolster foam and the vinyl cover could be repaired by a handy person? I have a sewing machine and can stitch by hand pretty well.
It looks like about a 2.5" or 3" diameter hole was cut open... next to the radiator core opening... on the passenger side (see your first page with the pics).
Quote from: gzig5 on January 29, 2021, 07:04:52 AM
Great work on the seats. How difficult was the modification so it would tilt forward more?
I've got a line on a set somewhat local but the driver side bolster is in poor shape on the seat bottom from entering/exiting. I'm not an interior guy, but you've have the cover off, do you think that bolster foam and the vinyl cover could be repaired by a handy person? I have a sewing machine and can stitch by hand pretty well.
My seats are at the upholstery shop and I forgot to get pics of the modification I did to get them to tilt forward more so I`ll try and describe it. Bascically the limiter that stops the seat coming forward is the blot that attaches the top and bottom frames together, there is a bushing sandwiched between the two plates the the adjuster teeth plate hits. What I did was remove the bolt and then weld a small piece of metal to hold the two plates together. That mod allowed the seats to come forward more as seen in the video. You could get more forward tilt out of them if you needed it but you would have to modify things a bit more but with the seat slid forward ont he track I think there is plenty of room to get in the back .
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on January 29, 2021, 11:37:01 AM
It looks like about a 2.5" or 3" diameter hole was cut open... next to the radiator core opening... on the passenger side (see your first page with the pics).
Not sure, I thought it was a factory hole as it doesn`t look cut. Anyone else have a pic of `72 up 22" radiator support? :dunno:
Quote from: torredcuda on January 29, 2021, 01:19:26 PM
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on January 29, 2021, 11:37:01 AM
It looks like about a 2.5" or 3" diameter hole was cut open... next to the radiator core opening... on the passenger side (see your first page with the pics).
Not sure, I thought it was a factory hole as it doesn`t look cut. Anyone else have a pic of `72 up 22" radiator support? :dunno:
I just looked at my 73, it's in about the same state as yours up front. I have a 26" radiator support and it does not have that hole, nor does it have room for that hole shown in post #5 of this thread. You must have a 22" or smaller radiator opening. I'd guess it is factory. I do have the rectangular hole on the driver side.
No not factory. 74 and it is solid on passenger side. Rectangle opening for wiring on drivers side.
Mine was actually a 19" rad. But opening is same as 22".
Not a good pic. But no hole. It's a solid panel.
Engine bay almost ready for primer
Orange again! Once it's dry enough I can black out the radiator support and undercoat the wheel wells. Next I'll start building the engine/transmission dolly. I need to order some more parts and get my headers recoated before I can start assembling .
:bigthumb: Like your inner fender braces, Did something similar on my 73 Challenger under my factory ones.
I did a larger area than factory but it's no concours restoration and I think it looks good.
Too cool looking to wait and install with the rest of the k-frame and suspension.
Been getting little stuff done but have been mainly waiting on parts. Engine is on dolly, headers are back from coating and now just waiting on 4 speed rebuild then the drivetrain can go in.
Spent an hour with a scuff pad, car soap and hose to clean up soot on underside of hood, rest needs to be sanded down. Pita with all the uneven surfaces, nooks and crannies but I'll get it done and resprayed along with the refurbished hinges but now my hood will finally close and line up good.
It was fitting that when I was just starting the final coat Barracuda by Heart came on WBLM which is the only decent classic rock station around.
I was trying to hold off bolting the front sheet metal back on as it would give me more room to bolt the k- frame and suspension on but I'm waiting for the 4 speed to be finished and needed to make some progress. Tape lines are an idea for stripes I'm considering.
4 speed rebuild taking longer than expected, had to order a reverse and then a second gear once we got it all apart. Got the grill painted and trim installed.
Looking great!!! I like how you're going to custom do it the way you think it looks best. :bradsthumb:
It's just a 318 Barracuda so I can build it however I want and not worry about "correct " or numbers matching stuff.
Passenger seat in, they came out great.
Back seat is in
If you have trouble with the seat not folding forward enough you wouldn't be comfortable in the rear of an E-body anyway
Going to be nice to fully recline.
What front seas are those ?
Neon SRT 4
What did it cost to have them recovered ? They look beautiful :drooling:
I could have just done the buckets for around $850 but we decided to use a better, but not factory correct material so we redid the rear to match for a total of $1245.
I personally don't really like the design of those seats (too bulky), but nice work! I bet they are really confortable!
I have different seats, but similar. I think you will really like the improvement. It's nice having the seat hold you in place rather than sliding around when you corner.
I went with the SRT seats for two reasons - wanted something more comfortable and better for my junk back and also better for keeping me in the seat since I`m upgrading the cornering abilities of the car.
I really like them and your upholstery guy did a fantastic job at a great price...up here that would be $3000-$4000 easily :bigthumb:
Oh the fun of aligning front end sheet metal on a '70's vehicle! Maybe it'll look better after a couple more cold ones?
Super nice job on the seats (front and rear)!!!!!
4 speed is finally done and Bilsteins are in (were on back order for 4 weeks), hopefully I`ll be dropping the body over the engine/trans, K-frame this weekend. :banana:
First time doing it from below, ain't never dropping it from the top again! Went pretty smooth but learned a couple things so next time will be even easier.
Bolted up! :banana:
Ok, minor complaint but for the money they cost I'd expect the Bilstiens to come with bushings that fit the hole. Left is correct, right came with the Bilstiens.
Quote from: torredcuda on July 17, 2021, 02:49:48 PM
First time doing it from below, ain't never dropping it from the top again! Went pretty smooth but learned a couple things so next time will be even easier.
See...that's what we've been saying for years now...once you try it, you'll never want to go back :twothumbsup:
https://www.facebook.com/1547682629/videos/541127510337387/
It wouldn`t let me post the video here but it`s up and running again!!! :woohoo: Just need to do some final tuning and bring it down to get an alignment.
Sounding good Jeff! :veryexcited:
Well.....the celebration was short-lived. The transmission (newly rebiult by a friend) goes into all forward gears just fine but will only go into reverse with a wrench on the shift lever and a lot of force, something is definitely not right. :'( I guess it`s coming out again to figure out why and means I`m done for this season - maybe next year it will be driving again.
Quote from: torredcuda on September 07, 2021, 09:57:54 AM
Well.....the celebration was short-lived. The transmission (newly rebiult by a friend) goes into all forward gears just fine but will only go into reverse with a wrench on the shift lever and a lot of force, something is definitely not right. :'( I guess it`s coming out again to figure out why and means I`m done for this season - maybe next year it will be driving again.
Well that rots! :console:
Got it fixed! I put a call out to someone who could fix it and got in touch with Jerry Hatch who is a big Stock/Super Stock racer. He told me to loosen the side cover and move it around a bit to see if it loosens it up as the clearance inside is tight and it worked. I also got the my Passon rebiuld book back from my buddy and read the procedure for aligning the side cover and may try that way tomorrow but for now it goes into reverse so I should be good. Now onto getting the grill, bumper and front valance on and getting an appointment for an alignment. :banana: Someone stop this roller coaster I`m on! :drunk:
Who needs reverse anyway. Full speed ahead!
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Nice! I never would have thought the side cover could cause that.
:D :pullinghair: :D :pullinghair: :D :pullinghair: :D
Quote from: Swamp Donkey on September 08, 2021, 05:56:00 PM
Who needs reverse anyway. Full speed ahead!
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Back around `83 I was driving a `70 road runner that wouldn`t go into reverse, it wasn`t a problem most of the time but every once in a while I`d be trying to push it backwards - NOT fun! :rolleyes:
Loaded into the trailer and brought it up to a shop for a wheel alignment. When it comes back I just need install the grill, to bolt on the front bumper and valance and should be able to drive it down to get a sticker, I may actually get it drive it this season! I have a new goal to make a show on October 8th but we`ll see how that goes. ::)
https://www.castleintheclouds.org/event/castle-car-show/
Running driving car again (stupid phone pics seem to end up sideways)
:)
I`ve had it out a few times now, still some minor bugs to work out and still lot`s of things to do over the winter but I figure I`ll give my first driving impressions with all the upgrades I already did. Here`s a refresher on the suspension and chassis mods - USCT frame connectors, homemade inner fender braces, PST upper control arms, 1.03" torsion bars and solid tie rod sleeves, plated lower control arms, Firm Feel 1 1/4" front sway bar, new Mopar heavy duty leaf springs, factory 3/4" rear sway bar, Bilstein shocks. I still have factory front discs and 10" rear drums and 15" BFG`s and I haven`t really had it on a nice windy road to push it in the corners yet but it definitely corners flatter than before. The ride is still good, you can feel the small bumps and cracks in the road but it`s not too harsh, overall a big improvement from the stock parts and cheapo harsh riding KYBs. Winter projects include a new steering box to fully tighten up the steering, figuring out what option I`m going with to get more caster out of the alignment, upgrading brakes and going to 17" or 18" wheels and stickier performance tires. Of course now that I have cool new custom seats the rest of the interior is showing it` age and needs to be redone with new door and quarter panels, new headliner etc. :bigmoney:
You've come a long way! It feels good to get behind the wheel of the fried fish again doesn't it? Congratulations on a job well done.
" When you're ready to get serious" ( about handling\braking ) you will ditch the BFG's :haha: Enjoy picking out your new rims and tires! Looks great enjoy!
Quote from: Brads70 on October 25, 2021, 04:04:50 PM
" When you're ready to get serious" ( about handling\braking ) you will ditch the BFG's :haha: Enjoy picking out your new rims and tires! Looks great enjoy!
Ya I know they are crap tires for performance so I`ll be looking for something a lot better. I just hate the thought of putting "Nitto" or some other foreign companys name on my classic American car but I know there aren`t a lot of options for decent American made rubber. Maybe I`ll grind off the lettering and get some of those stick-on letters and write "Goodyear" to fool everyone. ;)
I think all the issues, headaches and work have aged me a bit though.
I am thinking about putting Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires on the Cuda once everything is sorted out.. Nitto's for now.
Quote from: ledphoot on October 25, 2021, 07:23:01 PM
I am thinking about putting Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires on the Cuda once everything is sorted out.. Nitto's for now.
I had them on my car a number of years ago. I don't consider them a very good performance tire.
Cornering grip was lacking. My NT05's are far better. :alan2cents:
Black sidewall... Nitto doesn't stand out torred.
Running Nitto NT555 G2's, they seem OK, but nothing like the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's I got used to on the Vette
EDIT: Looks like they make the PS2's in 275/40/17.. Hmmm