After spending all of last year getting my RT back on the road so I could sell it off, I took some time off before getting back to this car; A numbers matching JH four speed car with the 335 HP 383 (orange, not blue). Badly rotted out everywhere but a couple years ago, I completely rebuilt the front end and put in new floor patches. The rear end was completely wasted but I took a break while I banged out the RT because I really needed the room. A few weekends ago, I started back on this car.
I now have the new rear rails in and both wheel houses. I was forced to put in new leaf spring hanger brackets as well. Today, I got all four torque boxes welded in. Those things are bulletproof. Now that my trunk lid hinges are secured again, I can do the Dutchman panel next. After that, I want to fit the tail panel and quarters. The trunk floor is ready but I don't want that welded in until the quarters and tail panel line up perfect.
Nice looking jig you have there.
Made it myself. Based of other people's designs and I added the adjustability. I went overboard though and used very heavy gauge tubing. Damn thing weighs easily 1/2 ton. I've loved using it though. We hope to move cross country in a couple years. As much as I'd like to keep it, I'll probably sell it just to avoid the backache of moving it.
Wow looks great
:clapping: :popcorn:
I am in :wrenching:
You certainly look like you are set up for that kind of work. Nice!
How did you find such a rusty california car? :pokeeye:
It was an Oklahoma car. I guy I know bought it and after getting it to California, starting rethinking whether it was worth the effort. Looking back, it has definitely not been. The only part of the car I will be reusing is the birdcage cabin area with the doors. Even then, I had the replace floor patches, rocker patches, roof skin, upper and lower cowl. I probably could get away with reusing the roof skin but there is so much rust underneath, I feel I need to rip it off and treat the cross supports really well.
This car is a great example of how a car can reach the point of no return if you leave it out in the elements long enough.
When I picked it up a few years back, I was only starting to learn metal work and welding. I still enjoy the challenge of a project like this but I wouldn't take on another car this far gone unless the purchase price was basically parts car price.
At least now you're headed in the right direction.... :twothumbsup: putting them together is more rewarding then taking them apart :alan2cents:
Got the Dutchman panel off, sandblasted the exposed areas and welded in the new one. This had to be one of the easiest pieces of metal ever to install. Fit like a glove. I know everyone swears by AMD but Dynacorn impresses me each time.
:bigthumb:
Quote from: 70 Challenger Lover on April 28, 2020, 07:02:41 PM
Got the Dutchman panel off, sandblasted the exposed areas and welded in the new one. This had to be one of the easiest pieces of metal ever to install. Fit like a glove. I know everyone swears by AMD but Dynacorn impresses me each time.
When you weld this panel and other panels in place like the wheel tubs, are you test fitting the surrounding panels like the quarter panels? Are you using Dynacorn quarters, and what are your thoughts on them ?
Yes. I have test fit the quarters but in my typical "overthinking" way of doing stuff, I came up with an order of assembly that made the most sense to me and allowed me some forgiveness if I messed up. The car suffered a minor rear end collision before I got it so I don't want to throw it all together assuming it will line up right.
I needed the rails, shock tower, leaf spring braces, and wheel tubs in place first to give me a good starting point. I purposely did not weld the rear seat panel to the wheel tubs though. I left them free floating so I could force the rail assembly up or down an inch if needed. The next step is to get the rear tail panel welded to the trunk floor so I can set it in place. I still won't weld the floor assembly to the rails and wheel wheels though. Then I will fit the quarters again along with the trunk floor/tail panel assembly. This will allow me to move the floor assembly forward or backward a bit or up or down. Once I get all these floating items locked in exactly how I want them, then I will weld the seat back panel to the wheel wells and floor/tail panel to the rails and wheel wells. This will permanently set the trunk floor height and lock the tail panel in as well.
Then the quarters will come back off And I will cut the roof skin off. The roof skin adds some structural rigidity so I want to save removal for last. From there, I'm going to sand blast the entire exposed area including bracing normally hidden by the roof skin and quarter panel (the pocket where the quart windows sit) and seal that whole area with epoxy and paint. Then the new roof skin and quarters will all go on at once.
If it all goes to plan, I should have a solid and well protected car when I'm done. Then I'll add in the sub frame connectors and put it on the rotisserie for cleaning and sealing.
I forgot your other question. Yes, I got a smoking deal on a pair of dynacorn quarters. I test fit them on the car and I'm extremely happy with them so far. They look very nice. The final test will come when I am able to test fit them again with the rear tail panel in place.
Got one of the subframe connectors in. Not too bad a job but it takes up your time.
That was a lot of work. :yes: :bigthumb:
Very Nice!!
:bradsthumb:
Before, I was thinking of going with undercoating when I'm done like original but as I move along, I can see why guys detail out the underside and leave it with a nice coat of fresh paint. I may just do that.
Still plugging away on fitting everything. Pretty happy with driver quarter. When I weld it in, I'll lift it a hair at the door jamb so it's the same height the original was at. The passenger one is good but I want to play with fit at the Dutchman panel just a little more. The tail panel fits but still needs final fitting. I'm happy with the trunk lid. That was the one unknown. A little high at the right upper corner but that's just the lip underneath popping up when I removed the clamp. Next step is to get the trunk floor in, then I'm stripping the roof skin off so I can clean and paint all hidden areas before welding everything in permanently.
Is the trunklid an original or aftermarket?
AMD. Like everything else on this car, the original was too rusty to use.
Good for you great 2 see :cheers: :australia:
I'm nearing the point where I want to sandblast the area that never see sunlight so I can epoxy and paint them. The area where the quarter window sits is easy with the quarters off but I also decided I want to strip off the roof and do the bracing underneath. The roof was solid enough but there were signs of corrosion hiding up in the braces. This is what I found everywhere.
:o Good call. :yes:
I knew I would find issues. It was this or dipping but I had a feeling dipping would leave my roof compromised in the end so either way, I'm putting in a new one.
Yup: These cars are old and that's not surprising to find unfortunately.
Sandblasted all structural stuff that will be hidden and covered the bare metal in epoxy primer. Gonna squirt some black paint over the epoxy today. There are a three small localized areas of rot on the passenger side I want to repair before the roof skin and quarter get welded back on. I'll have to touch up the paint again but I didn't want to leave the bare metal exposed to the open air any longer than I had to.
The supply place I normally get sand from has switched out to a newer coal media. To my surprise, it produces far less dust and cuts really nice. I used up the remaining sand on one side and then coal on the other. The coal was at least twice as fast and left an even nicer finish.
Now that everything is protected in there for years to come, I can turn my attention to a few smaller rot repairs.
It amazes me the depth of some of these restorations.
Everything is looking nice.
I have used Dynacorn panels on an early Falcon. They were spot on for sizing.
Roof came in today so I tossed it on just to see how it fit. Pretty nice overall. They damaged one area on the passenger C pillar but shouldn't be a difficult fix. For a $300 Goldenstar roof, it's far nicer than I was expecting.
Looking great.
What a big difference now with the new roof :cheers:
What blasting setup do you have?
Nice work!
Quote from: larry4406 on May 23, 2020, 04:03:14 AM
What blasting setup do you have?
Nice work!
I'm using a "Texas Blaster" unit and I'm pretty happy with it. It came with four nozzles and I find the second smallest is just right. My compressor can barely keep up with it. After getting it, I had to re run all my air lines with larger diameter ones too. Once we retire and move, a bigger compressor is definitely going in the new shop.