I'm picking up a 5.9 soon. It will be a 408 with LA-X or EQ heads (LA bolt pattern). 400 HP build w/ stock manifolds. Many more HP if I decided to put headers on it.
I'll need a nice list, with some good recommended specific parts to get in order to "LA-ify" it. The only thing I am willing to pull from my 340 is:
1) Exhaust manifolds
2) Power Steering pump w/ brackets
3) Alternator w/ brackets
4) Air cleaner
5) Distributor w/ wires
My 340 will go on a stand without these items as I "clean", "reseal", and "repaint" it. Then vacuum seal it for storage.
What I already have:
1) Mopar performance water pump
2) LA340 intake
3) Carter 440 AVS
4) Felpro gasket set
Everything else I would like to build fresh without cannibalizing my 340. The things I know about that I'll need to get...these can be reproductions as long as the fit/finish is good:
1) Oil pan
2) Valve covers
3) The dreaded driver's heat shield
4) V-belt pulleys
5) Timing cover
Others? Harmonic balancer? T-stat housing? Other things I don't know about?
I figure that many members may have lots of spare stuff sitting around that could help. If not, I'm curious which specific model/brands you'd recommend so I can start to create a build list.
The idea is to mimic the 340 to the T, aside from the part stamping on the side of the block which will give it away. :)
ran across this article I thought you might get something from
http://www.magnumswap.com/disguise-a-magnum-as-an-la-engine/
Never would have guessed the LA valve covers would work on a Magnum
everything I've seen on using LA heads on a Magnum says oiling for valve train requires some extra work.......
"everything I've seen on using LA heads on a Magnum says oiling for valve train requires some extra work......."- that's because the LA motors oil via a oil passage in the block that connects to the heads, while the Magnums oil via the push rods, a la Chevy. You can work around it by using AMC lifters that're configured to oil via the push rods. You'll need the specific push rods as well. I bought both from my local Chrysler dealer. Good luck :cheers:
Only applicable if using Magnum heads. I'm will be using LA bolt-style pattern heads. That means I should be able to bolt up stock LA 340 valve covers with no issues, and heat shield. and everything else. Yes, I will need to use magnum valve train, which is already in scope.
What this thread is about is all about the outside. Don't think too deep here fellas. :)
I will be selling the magnum heads.
What your buying is a roller 360... Not a 5.9, not a magnum... It's one of the last LA engines...
Randy, let me know what i need to replace on the outside (builder is already taken care of internals) to make it resemble a 340.
I suppose I could ask him all this stuff, but I like to ask both parties and compare notes.
You've got an intake, apparently you don't plan to use the heads even though they are the best flowing iron LA heads Chrysler made... Port them & run them... :alan2cents:
You have an intake & carb, use repo 340 valve covers... Use you original exhaust manifolds cause they have the "Look"...
Stock pulleys & brackets... Stock Air Cleaner.. 360 center sump pan... Stock timing cover... Paint it orange & nobody will know... Till you let the cat outta the bag... So don't... Smoke'm & leave them scratching their head..
Isn't a mid 90s ram 2500 a magnum?
I have done this, using the EQ heads drilled for LA intakes. You will be pleased. I didn't bother with stock looking for my project (other than to maybe fool people into thinking it is an LA, but I do have an alternator bracket for A/C cars if you need.
Yup, your right.. My mistake... No 308 heads & the block may or may not be drilled for oil to the heads/rockers on L/A style heads.... If you haven't bought it you might want to hold off for a 89-92 engine with the 308 heads... With a magnum block the only issue is if it doesn't has the oil passage for LA heads... A machinist can add it but it's easier if it's already there...
Where's Neil, he might know if the passage is drilled on a 94 Magnum...
@Chryco Psycho (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/chryco-psycho_4)
The 308 heads are LA style so they use shaft rockers & are drilled for oiling for Shaft rockers , 94 up use Magnum heads & pedestal rockers , the 94 blocks are not drilled for shaft oiling
The one I'm picking up is a "mid 90s" 5.9 Magnum. $250, complete, and is a "runner".
Already got a trailer and everything. My engine builder told me to go right ahead. Picking it up Sunday.
The stock heads, regardless of what year, is not apart of the build. I already got something special planned for that. Sounds like depending on the year, mine may need some "drilling" for oil?
Whatever it needs, my engine builder didn't mention any problems with the year and gave me the go to go get it. Took 3 weeks to find a "roller" 5.9 btw! They are out there...gotta be ready to jump when the time comes.
Hopefully all this still meets my goals of creating a totally-stock looking LA block from the outside. I would think my engine builder would have already raised a flag if not...always good to check in with you guys though.
Sorry for terrible pictures. Guy doesn't know how to take pictures obviously, but it looks pretty sound. He's guessing it has 100,000 miles on it. Pulled out of a wrecked 2500. Been sitting in his warehouse for 2-3 years, so it's pretty dusty.
If you guys think this is a bad idea, let me know. EQ or Indy-X will be used....my builder has been very hot on EQ heads recently for the $/performance. He's got a guy lined up that does phenomenal port work.
@Chryco Psycho (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/chryco-psycho_4) , @1 Wild R/T (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/1-wild-rt_320)
I don't see it as a bad idea but it is not going to work with what you want to do , you cannot put LA style heads on a Mag block
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 24, 2019, 10:03:00 AM
I don't see it as a bad idea but it is not going to work with what you want to do , you cannot put LA style heads on a Mag block
Not LA heads... Magnum style heads with intake bolt holes drilled to fit LA intake
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 24, 2019, 10:03:00 AM
I don't see it as a bad idea but it is not going to work with what you want to do , you cannot put LA style heads on a Mag block
I wouldn't say you can't, but the oil holes need to be there... And that's probably 8" of cast iron per side to drill through & you've got to hit the mark dead on after drilling 8"... Not an easy task...
I spoke to my buddy who owns a machine shop yesterday & he sez some of the early 5.9 Magnums had the oil passages so till the heads come off I wouldn't venture a guess of whether the holes are there or not...
Worst case scenario you run magnum heads & put L/A valve covers on them...
These heads are going on, EQ-CH318B:
https://www.aamidwest.com/enginequest/cylinder-heads/chrysler-magnum-head/
Slap in the magnum valve system. Slap on LA valve covers, oil pan, 340 distrib, LD340, 340 manifolds....
The way to think about it is that you are building a magnum to look like an LA. LA parts go on the outside.
I bought a new 92 D150 with a 318 Magnum in it. That thing was really strong I bet it would have dynoed within 10HP of a 68-71 340. After 92 they detuned them a bit but I think a 360-408 Magnum should run pretty hard easily.
What are you going to do for a fuel pump? I don't think the magnums have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. May be able to run an LA timing cover and cam that will accept the eccentric? Otherwise you will have to go electric.
Yes, to my understanding an LA timing cover bolts right up to it, and then you can use the mechanical fuel pump.
That's kind of what this thread is for, is to understand what all I need to get ordered before hand when it comes to the "outside" of the engine. For example, what's some good recommendations on 340 reproduction valve covers (or if someone has a set)? Timing cover? V-belt pulleys, Other stuff that I can't think about right now. :)
Regarding the inside, I will talk to my builder about forged again. I think his position is that he isn't against it, but he doesn't feel it's needed for 400-450 HP. With that said, forged cranks only appear to be $180-200 more.
I also have been reading that 5.9s are balanced differently than 340s. I believe that means that I will need a new torque converter/flywheel.
Forged crank is likely internally balanced so your current convertor is fine..
If there is any way you can go with a mechanical fuel pump.....do it. I recently LA'd a 5.9 for my Cuda and was led in the direction of an electric fuel pump by some one who said that the magnums cranks do not have the eccentric for a mechanical pump. I mounted a Carter electric pump next to the tank on the cross member and I hate it. Way too loud even with a rubber pad between it and the crossmember.
La timing cover will properly mount to Magnum. Bolts on heads are different than LA heads.
I have done the reverse. Magnum accessories on an La. You will need to have a cam that will mount the eccentric.
Valve covers are different and will not interchange. Bolts and mounting shape is different. Magnum 5.9 has different weight counterbalance than LA 360. Motor mount on drivers side may be different. They are for sure different between 318eccentric.
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 24, 2019, 08:19:54 PM
Valve covers are different and will not interchange. Bolts and mounting shape is different.
Magnum uses ten bolts but five are exactly where the LA bolts are... You can bolt a LA cover on a magnum head & it will seal fine....
Even if you use the LA front cover & a mechanical fuel pump you may have problems adapting the fuel pump eccentric to the roller cam
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 25, 2019, 08:20:23 AM
Even if you use the LA front cover & a mechanical fuel pump you may have problems adapting the fuel pump eccentric to the roller cam
there's a solution
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?search=7013&partid=22194
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hughesengines.com%2FUpload%2FproductInstructions%2FHUG7013ExplodedNew.jpg&hash=cb3510c166f4da763ec7787fa3b834ba90391729)
Pulling it home now.
Quote from: Bullitt- on August 25, 2019, 09:26:37 AM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 25, 2019, 08:20:23 AM
Even if you use the LA front cover & a mechanical fuel pump you may have problems adapting the fuel pump eccentric to the roller cam
there's a solution
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?search=7013&partid=22194
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hughesengines.com%2FUpload%2FproductInstructions%2FHUG7013ExplodedNew.jpg&hash=cb3510c166f4da763ec7787fa3b834ba90391729)
I think I'd rather go with an in-tank electric pump than hack it up to run a mechanical. Just seems like a weak link, though I'm sure they work OK. That way you're ready for fuel injection too.
Guys, it will be OK. :)
Almost got it to short block status. Cleaned as much as I gave a shit to clean...most of it will be sold off or hot tanked anyways.
Turned crank. Lots of compression.
It looks nice and clean. How may miles are on it?
It came from the dude's father's truck (wrecked). He doesn't know the mileage though. He was guessing "around 100,000". Seems to make sense thus far.
My hope is that I'll be able to complete the total disassembly by this weekend. The engine builder wants to come over and measure things before I proceed any further.
Already started to add stuff on craigslist. Hopefully most of it will sell!
See pic.
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on August 24, 2019, 08:36:07 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 24, 2019, 08:19:54 PM
Valve covers are different and will not interchange. Bolts and mounting shape is different.
Magnum uses ten bolts but five are exactly where the LA bolts are... You can bolt a LA cover on a magnum head & it will seal fine....
So.. as I readily have both available I did some comparisons. Magnum 5.9 motor. This is one I will be building forged internals for the turbos.
Yes the 5 holes bolt up. No the mounting is not the same profile on the ends. But there does have some limited contact surfaces that hit. Contact gets thin but it is there. Some castings may have issue though. Also may need to remove some of the valve cover outer flange to clear properly.
Good post. I wonder if the EQ heads offer a little bit more surface area for the valve cover.......
It looks like it should seal fine. You have some gravity working against you for alignment....
LA gasket on upside down... may make a difference. :alan2cents:
It's been done many times... Most say it works fine, a few have leaks... They claim the steel core with rubber embossed on it style gaskets seal perfectly...
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on August 26, 2019, 09:52:01 PM
It's been done many times... Most say it works fine, a few have leaks... They claim the steel core with rubber embossed on it style gaskets seal perfectly...
Basically my point that it appears possible. Just with occasional issues due to casting variations.
I stand corrected with chin up. Lol.
Builder came over and instructed me during the teardown.
He said this block is a candidate for a hone only. Excellent untouched block. When it goes to the machinist, we'll see what he says.
Even the 5.9 heads are crack free. We tried looking for several minutes. He said I should take no less than $250 for them. I have some doubts on that one...
Yes: When I seen the photos of how clean it was I knew I would have slapped it in as is after doing a cam swap.
I need to pick out a cam now. It needs to retain the mechanical fuel pump eccentric. This is a 408 stroker.
The builder is recommending a 230 cam on 110 degree separation. Curious to here your guys' thoughts.
The CH318B EQ heads are already being worked on as we speak. This engine is coming together faster than I thought.
I'm no expert but I think that is a good spec area to be for that motor. I have a new Comp XE275HL cam and lifters (CL20-227-4) that I don't think I'll be using but it is for an LA motor. Specs at 275/287 advertised, 231 Intake, 237 Exhaust @0.050", .525" lift In/Ex. Bought with intention of sticking but I think I've convinced myself to go with new heads and a solid flat tappet cam when I swap from the 727 auto to a four speed.
My builder would like me to increase the quantity of my oil pan. I want to keep it stock-ish looking though.
What do you guys think about this oil pan?
Seems to check out all the boxes. Looks relatively stock and gains an extra quart.
Using on a 5.9 408 Stroker in a 70 Challenger w/ Exhaust Manifolds. I "may" go to headers, but that's distant future.
https://www.manciniracing.com/ma273318340c.html
I highly doubt it will work , it is for the LA 318 / 340 the end seals are different on the 5.9
Some info from Magnum swap.com. I am using an LA timing cover.
"To install a Magnum motor in your car, you will need a car-style mid sump oil pan and matching pickup tube. All Magnum motors have rear sump truck-style oil pans. If you're putting the Magnum in a truck or SUV, the existing pan will work.
The Chrysler LA 360 oil pan will bolt-up to the Magnum with no modifications, but you aren't stuck with the typical leaky four-piece 360 Gasket. The Magnum uses a one-piece oil pan gasket. If you use the Magnum timing cover, you can use the gasket as-is. It is possible to use the Magnum gasket with the LA timing cover, but modifications to the front of the gasket are required. Details here: Oil Pan Gasket"
"When using an LA timing cover, it is still possible to use the one piece oil pan gasket from the Magnum engines. Simply use the front 'U 'from the timing cover kit—you'll need one to install the timing cover and water pump anyway–and cut away the corresponding U-shaped piece on the Magnum gasket. A little Rite StuffTM where the rubber gasket meets the new U, and VOILA! Leak free fit!
Scram Speed now sells a gasket kit specifically for this purpose, using the same gaskets we do."
It appears that that pan will work, and is what I should use. It's the one-piece gasket that I will need...
Psycho.....I think you are right..
Check out this one....meant for magnum engines.
https://www.manciniracing.com/ma360cesupa.html
What I don't know is if that's 4 qrt (stock 340) or if it's 5 qrt. Highly likely 5 qrt, but will call and confirm....
I'm thinking it would be a perfect pan for a retro-look...?
So the machine shop today made an error and accidentally over-bored one cylinder on the 5.9L.
Now I'm looking at a .040 overbore. Pretty pissed.
I think they at least owe me a free sonic check....
What happened to the "hone only"? Why poke the whole block to .040? Why not have those super machinists source you a single .040 piston and rings, match it's weight to the other 7 and do the one cylinder only. This isn't a NASCAR engine and why go to all the expense if it's not required? As for a free sonic check, they'd be doing it on their block, because they've had to find me another after screwing up in that fashion! :rolleyes:
Sleeve it at, there expense or replace it at there expense. :yes:
I'm going to request them to sonic check the block and to let me know full detail before I move to .040.
Decide then.
While I'm upset, please understand that this isn't a date coded or rare block guys. Don't want to pick a fight with them or to explode the situation.
Quote from: kawahonda on December 18, 2019, 07:04:42 AM
I'm going to request them to sonic check the block and to let me know full detail before I move to .040.
Decide then.
While I'm upset, please understand that this isn't a date coded or rare block guys. Don't want to pick a fight with them or to explode the situation.
Understand not wanting to explode a situation but that is a significant error...
Sonic testing would not be a bad option. But you also have to understand these later motors have less casting to start with. My first concern with overbore is heat dissipation.
Obviously your intended usage will ultimately dictate decisions. Simple setup with an occasional romp. No problem. Now take same setup to track or many freeway miles in 100 degree weather. You will have cooling issues.
Reminder to you that these motors are a dime a dozen.
My "method" would be to have them replace block with another. Probably lower cost for them and better piece of mind for you.
My2c
Mike.
Here's my thinking. My engine builder is thinking I am blowing this all out of proportion.
This is what feels right to me, regardless of what my builder thinks:
Preference 1. Replace the block. They've offered to replace it with a "good block" that they think they have in the shop. TELL THEM TO ONLY BORE WHAT THEY NEED TO BORE. Don't let them give me the "standard .030 over bullshit" that they did for my current block. If they need to find a block, fine, I have time. Anything from 1993-2003 will work. I have time, I'm not in a hurry.
Reasons against this: My block that I gave them I at least was able to inspect and know somewhat of the history of. With "their" block, I don't know its origins. It could have been sitting outside for 15 years for all I know. It may have had an internal coolant leak for all I know.
Preference 2. SONIC CHECK my block, and provide me with a report of cylinder thickness. I want to know if .040" over is pushing it, or if there's plenty of room for .040" over. This will tell me IF I will have cooling issues in the future. It may be that in this specific block, there's plenty of thickness, and I shouldn't be overly concerned. With this option, I still expect them that Sonic Checking should be on the house, and I even expect further "sorry, we messed up so the boring charge is also on us." This could be a good option.
Preference 3. Have them pay me for the block ($250) and find another/take my business elsewhere. This would net me $180 in profit not including the gas--which I damn well earned from finding the block, transporting the block, and this bullshit that I had to put up with.
Opinions vary widely on the Magnum casing. Believe me that I've spent 2 hours last night scouring every inch of the internet and asking opinions from people that know a little bit about these blocks. Dodge says .020" is max overbore, others say that's pure bullshit. Others say .040" is safe. Others say up to .060 is max. Other's say .030" should be max. But the most consistent thing I've read is to have it SONIC CHECKED! No two blocks are the same.
They should sleeve it for free. Done.
Good assessment. Your #1 is also my #1.
Many to chose from so replacements are cheap.
Second, if I recall correctly the "standard" 30 overbore pistons would be more common. This being lower cost to source.
As for the factory .020 limit this would cover every motor without exception. They cannot make exceptions for unique 1 off rebuilds. Again sonic will tell a lot for casting shift issues.
To throw another wrench in decision. Overbore now will eliminate any future bore options if something goes bad later.
Updated Preferences:
Preference 1. Replace the block. Bore only what's needed.
Preference 2. They should sleeve what they gunked up on them. Bore it to correct .030 size.
Preference 3. Have them pay me for the block ($250) and find another/take my business elsewhere. This would net me $180 in profit not including the gas--which I damn well earned from finding the block, transporting the block, and this bullshit that I had to put up with.
I updated Preference 2 because it is better to sleeve a cylinder to keep the all the bore sizes smaller than it is to just continue to punch everything out larger. AGREE?
Going to call them and go over preference 1 and 2. I won't mention 3 unless necessary.
I also should confirm that they are using torque plates for boring.
Called him. I feel better now.
I mentioned two options. Find another block, or sleeve it. He listened.
He doesn't prefer sleeving--he doesn't like the heat transfer properties of adding a joint. "Nothing beats a factory bore."
He asked me (which is kinda funny to ask at this point) how hard I'm going to run it. I told him I may take it to the strip a few times. I told him I want to drive it at 100F on the highway spinning 3400 RPMs when I need to.
"OK, I'm going to get you a new block. It will be a pain in the ass for me, but it's the right thing to do for you. I want to make it right."
I told him 1993-2003. Have at it, and keep me updated.
Spot on with "requirements". True or not, it sets the tone this is not just another factory good enough rebuild.
Good for you he is stepping up to the plate.
Carry on.
Your engine guy sounds like a stand up guy. :perfect10:
To clarify, there's two terms that I want to use:
"Engine Guy" should mean my builder--I may refer to him that way. He's guiding me towards a superb tried-and-true 408 build. Known in the community for small block Mopars. Offered to help rebuild the engine. Guides me to the build, what to buy, what to order, and to not make stupid decisions. Knows my goals, and is there to help me achieve them. Let's me use his shop for blasting. Advice 24/7. Mopar guru. Awesome dude...so cool. He's the reason I'm even posting about a rebuild in the first place.
Then there is the machinist, which is who I'm referring to here. This machinist was used by someone I know of with great results. Reviews look good for them. Sometimes, a mistake is truly a mistake. This machinist I chose because of word-of-mouth, but also chose to go in order to save $1200 for a basic short-block assembly vs "the absolute best in the area." The other machinist is probably of greater quality, but you gotta pay the prices--some prices looked very subject and added-on unnecessarily. Like clearance a crank for the stoker kit, which it doesn't need. I confirmed to him it doesn't. He said "my estimate is pretty much what you'll pay."
So I chose this other place. The whole point of a magnum swap isn't to pay 340 blue-print NASCAR prices. It's to put a damn, sound, 5.9 stroked magnum in there and make it look like a 340 and scream. That's the whole point of a magnum swap. Not to treat it like an original motor.
Just want to be clear, in case in the future I say "engine guy" I don't want you guys confuse that with the machinist. My engine guy is a damn fine stand up guy. He should be on this forum, but he doesn't have an e-body.
It's the machinist that caused me to loose sleep last night, but after the phone call today, I do feel like I'm in good hands.
Thanks for the comments everyone. Yellowthumper, I did have to script my responses (felt like it) for the phone call. I f($#ing hate trying to sound like I know what I'm talking about when it comes to engines, when I only have a basic understanding. The last thing I want to do is to come off like a know-it-all. But that phone call went very well. He really was caring, very sorry, and knew it's going to be a pain for him, but I feel like now he's got some blood in this motor for making it right...
:bradsthumb: keep us posted.
What do you guys recommend for a harmonic balancer for the 5.9L 400-450 HP stroker kit? Needs to be OEM-compatible.
Crappy pics, but this is going to all come together soon....
EQ Heads w/ 2.02 Exhaust Valves, ported and polished.
Heads paid for.
Ported/polished EQ318 heads
1.94 intake, 1.6 exhaust
comp dual valve springs
Flows ~300 CFM.
Resurfaced
We also talked about re-using the factory "hi stall" converter. He's supposed to send me some cam options next. Will share when I get them.
IMO the factory 340 convertor could work quite nicely with a stroked small block as long as the camshaft is chosen properly to work with it.
I made the first non-factory looking move today: I ordered a Kevko M302 oil pan. I had to. It would be stupid to mount up a stock 5qrt (I think)capacity oil pan up to a 408 stroker. I increased it to 6 quarts. Built-in windage tray.
It clearly doesn't look stock, and it really upsets me, but I think this hopefully is the only thing I need to do that won't look right. Obviously, an oil pan is only visible if you get on the ground and look upwards. So I'm willing to live with that in turns to have many many miles of perfect operation.
Just be prepared when I post photos soon that's the only thing that will look off. Otherwise, I aim for this to be a near 100% 340 resto, given the LD340 intake and given the EQ heads.
Continuing on....
He's recommending #2, but is questioning if #3 would work...
Layman's thoughts on these cam options?
408 stroker, LD340 intake, prob ~9.2-9.5:1 compression (whatever is a good 91 octane pump gas option), Iron Heads (EQ Ported/polished), factory 340 HIPO torque converter, '70 HiPO manifolds (headers later, maybe), 3.73 gearing, 440 AVS carb, recurved point dizzy...
It's a stroker I'd be tempted to go to #3 but either one will work.
Wonder if there's a cam out there that would be in-between #2 and #3.
Need mechanical eccentric.
I doubt it. Maybe CP will weigh in on what works better with exhaust manifolds though. There is a science on that, probably more duration on the exhaust than the intake.
I will look at this better in a day or 2 , , life has been crazy here with everyone trying to leave before the airport & flights shut down , I have been running on 5 hr sleep or less for over a week straight .
My fIrst thought is Why Comp cams , they do not design good cams for Mopars , I would be looking at Lunati , Engle or Hughes instead , you are throwing away power with comp in a Mopar
With manifolds the key is to reduce overlap so instead of 110 or 112* centerline you need a 114* , you can get them custom ground at this spec , also lift is free {adds power without changing the way the engine runs] so get as much as possible for the duration .
I think you are going to have more than enough power when you stick your foot in it with either 2 or 3. Two will give you better driveabiliity around town but will still probably burn the hides off at will. I'm sure either will sound sick. People think that they want/need a "race" cam but you have to be dedicated to living with it every day. #3 is going to have less vacuum at idle if you have power brakes.
FWIW #2 is fairly close to the XE275HL I picked up but as a roller probably has more area under the curve. There are sound clips out there on most of these off the shelf cams. If you really want to get exactly what you want, then spend an extra $100 and have Jones, Bullet, or one of the other Mopar specialists grind one for your head flow and application. Shelf cams are a compromise most of the time.
Thanks for the replies.
Been listing to XE274 sound clips, and it's definitely not stock sounding. :)
That's not a bad thing, but yea, it appears that it will have some good lope.
Having a 110* overlap: is that bad for manifolds? I'd like the cam to "work" with manifolds, but possibly work even better if/when I do make the switch to headers. So yea, I wouldn't overly focus on spec'ing it ou for manifolds unless it causes issues.
The XE274 appears to be better than off-the-shelf Hughes cams as far as providing more lift. It actually looks pretty good (if not better) compared to Hughes....more lift.
I have the 274, and it's a kick-ass cam, lopey idle, but really likes a taller stall TC... really gets cooking above 3000 rpm
I thought it was too much for my stock TC and 3.23 gears...
Put a OD trans in with lower 1st gear and 2900 stall, tuned the carb, and WHOA BABY!!!
That's good to hear...makes me think with my 406 stroker and 3.73s the 274 would probably be tits....Probably will increase the factory stall of 2200-2400 to a few hundred RPMs higher...
With 1.6 rockers it will clear .560 lift.
The way it works is the exhaust ,leaving if there is a long header tube, creates a vacuum behind it & if both the intake & exhaust valves are open this can significantly help cylinder filling at mid to higher RPM , with manifolds you don't create the vacuum very well & in some cases actually cause reversion causing poor cylinder filling & contamination of burnt gasses , so as little a 2-4* seems it can make a big difference
Quote from: kawahonda on March 21, 2020, 06:53:48 PM
That's good to hear...makes me think with my 406 stroker and 3.73s the 274 would probably be tits....Probably will increase the factory stall of 2200-2400 to a few hundred RPMs higher...
With 1.6 rockers it will clear .560 lift.
Again you need to be careful , the spring pressures required to keep the valvetrain stable may collapse the hyd lifters using 1.6 rockers as you will need higher spring pressures
Yep. My builder has selected and installed springs that will "easily" accept .55 lift. You have to run 1.6 ratio in a magnum. I'm sure he's assured that the valve train is well in order to accept either hyd roller cam.
I talked to him about increasing the LSA to 114 and he said BS. I couldn't explain it, but I mentioned with manifolds I "heard" higher the number is better. He said BS and then provided a great educational seminar about what it all means. I'm getting better at understanding cams, but yea. He seems to not believe that 114 is needed, and that is a number he was willing to make fun of, headers or manifolds. I think he prefers tighter, more efficient separation.
He's assured the manifolds will run "good" with this combo. Headers of course, will be better. But I wouldn't expect it to puke or not run right with manifolds.
"My goal is to make this run great with your damn manifolds, but run fantastic when you finally quit being an idiot and install headers."
:)
Welp, got the shortblock home today....and now it's having to go back tomorrow.
This place..seriously. Honest mistakes, but holy shit.
They are almost in business for 100 years now. Family operated and run. There's some unique soul there.
But holy shit, you cannot excuse multiple mistakes. Pardon my french.
:thumbdown:
I hate to post this, but can you spot the error?
The "oops, I had my mic wrong and I hit one cylinder .040" over" is one thing...OK, fine, I have a friend that will donate a Magnum block for it, but there's no excuse for this assembly error.
AFIK, Ford, Mopar, and Chevrolet do not differ piston orientation assemblies. This picture is embarrassing. My builder caught it right away via text message and called them immediately. GOod thing I got a great builder. The machine shop though?
Upside down pistons! kind of makes you wonder what else in backwards. :headbang:
Man: I always build my own engines and for that matter everything else, that's why.
Sorry you are running into more problems.
But, I'm very happy that I could recognize what the problem was in the picture. You sometimes can teach an old dog. Time to give one of the local shops a call and see about getting my spare 340 block cleaned and sonic checked.
Ready for what's next.
Some pics of the components in waiting...
I don't know what brand it is, it's the one supplied by SST with their A-41 kit... I opted for the highest stall lock-up one available.
IMHO you will not be in the 'too much' range, but more in the constant big grin range, whether you are just day-cruising or just can't keep your foot out of the carb, like me every now and then...
:banana: :banana: :banana:
Ordered XR274 camshaft w/ valve-train components. Got a hi-flow oil pump. We're aiming to reuse magnum push-rods, but we'll see. Got adjustable roller rockers ready to go.
We think think the high performance factory converter will run well with this cam. Many other people disagree and must say you must buy a custom cam and must buy a custom converter. I chose to go XR274 over the XR280 to give the converter a strong chance of ripping it up, but also to allow easily swappage back with the original 340 once I get to restoring that.
The 340 and 408 build will look nearly 100% the same when I'm done as far as looks. I'm planning to only pull manifolds, distributor, and wires from original 340. Oh yeah, and that driver's side manifold heat shield, which is impossible to find. All other components will be left alone, including hardware.
It's the only way I can make sense out of this.
The big problem is wires. I'd love to order wires right now, but FireCore basically was not interested in my business. I'd be curious on some stock-looking (orange boots look really nice though too) fresh wires that would fit in factory 340 wire trim. I don't mind having to ream it out a little bit. Do I even need to go above 7.5mm factory wire specs? I guess I'd pull the coil too, unless I don't need to. Coils are cheap, but again I need something that works with hi performance points. Sticking in the past!
I'm wondering if I can use the factory wire for the fast idle solenoid for my upcoming electric choke?
This wire is obviously being driven from the alternator. Will this work?
Aside from the above question, I have a question about spark plug wires.
I know there are some reproduction wires made that are really good. I'm curious however how these would work on a 408 build. I assume just fine, especially if I'm staying with my performance points. If I even upgrade to a petronix, I would think assume that these wires will not work anymore?
Is it true that points vs electronic (in my possible future case-petronix) use different wires?
I don't know what reproduction plug wires your referring to that are "really good" but 10+years ago I got the orange Mopar set... They were very short and others had the same complaint... Found the same issue seems to continue based on the 2-reviews on this Amazon item
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B000A8MWA8/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
I then exchanged them for a set of black MSD wires that Summitt recommended & had fitment issues with those as well.. I ended up remaking some & replacing a couple, basically making my own. I've read many other posts that that's about the only way to get proper fitment. Firecore may be the exception https://www.manciniracing.com/marafafitfiw2.html
Those Firecore wires look pretty decent! I really love the red-boot look.
The one I've heard really good reviews on are these (as in, cut perfectly):
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/rj48
They are date coded and such, but they are "ignition points only!"
I wonder if the fire-core are "points only" as well.
I don't know anything about wires, so I'm just trying to learn everything I can.
1) Right now I have non-factory wires. They are black. I checked the OHMs on a couple and they seemed good. But these wires are probably many many years old.
2) I'm running performance points now, and will continue to run the same distributor/points over to the 408 build. I "may" in the future to change to petronix depending on how difficult NOS performance points are hard to find.
3) I tested my coil at 1.5 OHMs, 9.26k.
So kinda not sure if I should just plop it all over to the 408, or leave some stuff behind on the 340.
Quote from: kawahonda on April 07, 2020, 01:21:59 PM
Those Firecore wires look pretty decent! I really love the red-boot look.
The one I've heard really good reviews on are these (as in, cut perfectly):
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/rj48
Those look nice so if they really "fit" I'd say your OK either way..
The only difference I'm aware of is the coil for electronic vs point is different, how I don't know..
basically after the juice leaves the coil the lower the resistance the better from what I understand & I can't imagine their going to the trouble of making actual wire for "points"
I'm at the point where I have almost just about every thing to build a separate 340 look-alike engine, minus a few things that I'll transplant (distributor, heat shield, air cleaner, and manifolds).
There's a couple other "need to find" things. Throttle return spring, throttle return bracket, throttle cable bracket, and coolant flange. Everything else, I have.
I'm taking "leave alone the 340" very serious! Though, I do want to restore it next. Lots of things not pictured here...I have iron ported heads, fully rotating short-block, lifters, adjustable roller rockers, lifters, HV oil pump, timing chain assy, etc.
Some progress today.
Haven't really assembled stuff on my own before. Seems pretty straight forward though.
Next stop is timing system...need to measure clearances, degree cam, and top it all off with an LD340 that I need to clean. I sandblasted it, so I need to make sure it's super clear. My goal is to leave it upside down in my parts washer for 2-4 days, then high-pressure wash the $hit out of it. May even spray some engine-foam cleaner in there before.
I have several things on order.
A couple things need to be done next in order to press forward. I'm curious in which order.
1) I need to degree the camshaft. I have all timing chain components on-hand.
2) I need to verify the push rod length in order to see if I can use the stock magnum rods that I cleaned up.
I've semi-confirmed that I should put the balancer on at the very end, after all that stuff.
I would think you have the order correct! :alan2cents:
It's amazing all the little setbacks you have during assembly.
1) The oil pickup tube requires a stud on #3 main cap. OK, ordered a main cap stud from Kevko/AARP, removed both main cap bolts (consistently and carefully) and added a stud on one side ($30) and followed the 3-step re-torque process on that main cap. Sweet. Now, I just need a 3/8" fine grade 8 nut and washer to seal the deal to mount it over the oil pickup tube flange. Found a grade 8 3/8" nut, but all the 3/8" (any grade) washers fit sloppy and look like ass. Not sure what I should do here. Look for a 3/8" flange nut w/ fine thread (impossible to find?) or just mount the damn nut straight up to against the oil pickup flange w/ thread lock...OR use a grade 8 3/8" nut w/ lock washer (looks correct as far as proportions)? My engineer father tells me to NOT use a lock washer in this area.
2) Crankshaft woodruff key from Doorman does not fit my Scat crank. Not only is it too big, but it's beveled...and the scat crank has a rounded insert machining. I emailed Scat. Quite shocking to me why they wouldn't include the matching key with the stoker kit. My guess is it uses a chebby key, but we'll find out.
Little stupid $hit like that could delay a build a week.
#3 Main is the thrust bearing. It controls the front to back movement of the crankshaft. You will have to loosen the two main stud nuts and with a mallet hit the front of the crank and then the back of the crank to seat the main cap and bearing again. Then retighten. Otherwise the main bearings may not be aligned with each other and they'll wear or cause the thrust surface of the crank to wear.
I'm trying to make sure this is the correct key. It matches the width that scat told me. However, the shape of the insert portion is different. The crank has a half-moon shaped insert, where as the key is beveled...
It's also a bear to install, so I'm wanting to ask if the shape difference is normal before I start tapping it in again.
Edit: Scat told me to proceed with that key. May need some filing.
Runcharger: I'm starting to worry about what you said. I think you're asking me to loosen it back up again, tap the crank (rotating assembly is all in place, so it's likely going to require a "good" tap) side to side, then retorque? When installed the stud, I did not remove the end cap....I highly doubt it moved any. But I think you're concerned that the bearing may have moved during loosening?
After installing the tensioner, I have no idea how this timing set is going to go on.
Any tips?
Edit: Looks like the tensioner arm is in a bind. Going to have to cut/break the release plunger/pin to free it up. It will make the installation more difficult, but gonna have to do it!
Yes: If the center main bearings aren't perfectly aligned they will scrape the thrust surface of the crankshaft and the clearance will expand in a hurry. Sorry I don't know about the tensioner.
Thanks Sheldon. Is this basically the step-by-step process that I need to perform:
With the bearings and crank in place, set the trust cap at 10-15 lb-ft of torque on the bolts.
Using a rubber mallet, tap the crank forward (I may choose to use my steel mallet with hardwood here)
Now torque the main cap bolts/studs
We pry back on crank using a long screwdriver, then zero the dial indicator and then pry the crank lightly forward to read the total clearance
Spec: .002-.007
Pretty much; I tap the crank forward and then back, then tighten fully and then check clearance.
What do you think about this drilling "mod" to allow additional oil for the fuel pump eccentric?
If the LA blocks didn't have this, then I'm not sure why this mod is recommended? Have you guys heard of it? If I choose to do it, then I need to do this nearly next before degreeing the cam.
I've seen that recommended quite often, but not in reference to the eccentric, but getting more oil on the chain. I don't see how it would hurt anything.
Things I have accomplished today:
1) Installed timing chain and sprockets WITH tensioner. That Cloyes tensioner is serious business. I had to remove the "pin" which cased it to be in a bind and make my own pin-setup. It even took additional "prying" to reducing the tension in order to barely manage to slip the sprocket/chain on. Finally got it on. It's a super tight fit.
2) Installed degree wheel, socket, and pointer.
3) Loosened #3 main and pumped crank forward, backward, and retorqued. Checked end trust at .004".
Then I started to get side tracked. Ever since I brought the short block home (the last time), I noticed a "rattle" noise whenever I rotated the block around on the stand. It appears that it's coming from inside the block (water jacket). It sounds metallic. I'm not sure if it's completely normal to hear a rattle noise when rotating a short-block on the stand or not. If this is NOT NORMAL, then with help and another person, I will identify which area of the block and start knocking freeze plugs out.
My teacher-builder came by. We popped out some freeze plugs. Used a remote camera to investigate the noise.
Found one whole freeze plug dangling in there. Found a metal circlip object. Noise is now pretty much almost gone. I think there's something minor and slight in there still, so I may do some more fishing tomorrow. It would be fine-as-is to leave alone, but since I already removed 3 freeze plugs, best to fish all I can out.
We measured the push rods and started to degree the cam We think the factory push-rods might be OK. Got lots of questions answered. Feel like It's time to continue to proceed forward.
Pic of items found in block.
Some other progress pics too.
Primed oil pump. Added sealant on tube fitting. Added block locktite to stud nut. Torqued this nut to 40lbs. I also measured pan clearance to pickup tube to be about 3/8", in spec.
Assembled timing chain components fully, including fuel pump eccentric and tensioner.
Installed a few spare freeze plugs. Will need to order another set since I'd rather not reuse the plugs I knocked out. If I was in a pinch, maybe, but I have time and a little cash to burn. Do it right.
We think original pushrods will work. I'm not a fan of the "puzzle pieces" push rod retainers. Seems chinsey to me. Maybe it's fine. I wouldn't mind ordering solid 1-piece pushrod retainers.
We will work on degreeing the cam soon.
I'm considering finding 1-peice push rod guides as opposed to using these adjustable "puzzle peice" guides. I think welding (at least a good strong tack weld) is recommended, but I feel like I'd rather spend a little money to get one peice, if I can find one piece.
I came across these:
Comp Cam's Magnum 4825-8
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4825-8
I have 7/16" studs, and 5/16" push-rods. One necessary modification would be to drill out the stud holes from 5/16" to 7/16" so that they would fit around the studs. That's easy and I'm fine doing that.
I measured 1.90" center-to-center for the stud spacing on the heads. Since I'm using "Magnum" heads and these are "Magnum" guideplates, this is probably correct.
I fitted two pushrods with the adjustable guideplates that I have now, and my center-to-center pushrod guide slot is also 1.90".
I asked Comp, and I recieved the most generic answers. I asked for dimensions and they couldn't supply it.
For $20, is it worth picking these up and trying them out, in order to have 1-piece retainers?
Is it common/OK for rocker arms to be slightly "cocked" when centered on the valve tips? They are not "dead on" straight.....just want to check before I tack weld the guide plates.
as long as the pushrod is not rubbing the intake runner you are OK
My father warned me against Dodge. Said they built $hit cars...
But over the past 2 years he has secretly fallen in love with the Challenger....has learned the #'s matching codes......and had a blast helping me assemble vlave train. Keep in mind he tow'd it home.....
He's definitely a Challenger fan. I'd even say he's starting to like Chrysler motors.
"it's all the same"
That is the truth.
Having worked on all the 60's-70's era cars I appreciate Chrysler's engineering from that time frame and think they have mostly superior ideas. People generally like whats they are familiar with of course.
Alright....been a little busy with a brake rehaul which is entering its final phase. And with my job. But today I had a chance to press forward.
Long story short, I spent about 8 hours trying to degree the cam with the Comp Cam $70 timing set. It wasn't the cheapest set, but it was one step up from that. My dad and I first spent 5-6 hours one night. On the straight-up setting, we kept getting 110-112. We then advanced it 4 degrees, and we ended up at like 103 degrees. The camcard calls for 106 because it has 4 degrees built-in.
I had my engine builder come over and check our work, and sure enough, he came to the same conclusion. He prompted me to throw away the shitty comp timing set and get to a get trick-flow set that has 2 degree increments. It was only a little bit more than what I paid for the comp set, so shame on me.
Today I threw the trickflow set on. Decided to give it a try at 2 degrees advanced. Came in at 107.5 degrees intake centerline, and 112 degrees exhaust centerline. Perfect, going to call that set, and a 408 should love that. Will help some with traction. So with a quality timing set: first try.
I don't blame anything on the comp camp timing set. Perhaps if you're not using a tensioner like I'm using it may work "OK". Either way, do NOT skip degreeing a cam. It's amazing how many people do that.
I then proceeded to finally get my arse in gear for the pushrod guide-plates. These are the two piece style. Some people don't weld them together. Others do. I decided to weld mine together. As of today, all are welded together and installed. Hughes push rods installed. Next step is to torque the studs down, install rockers, install timing distributor shaft gear, valley-pan thing, and bolt the LD340 up!
I basically had to tack weld each set twice while installed on the engine. I then removed and welded the rest, grinded, cleaned, and reinstalled. It makes me VERY nervous welding over an open engine. I did spend considerable about of time with my magnetic tools getting ALL slag out. It doesn't matter how much towels you lay down...some slag will end up. I feel pretty confident that the engine is clean and ready to go!
Comp Cams stuff is generally in the "okay" category. You can usually find better stuff for the same price elsewhere I've found.
I spent quite awhile in the shop today. My goal was to simply torque rocker studs and install rockers.
Apparently, welded guideplates didn't seem to work for me. As soon as they are torqued down, they will shift/change charactoristics. I spent about 2-3 hours just trying to get one to align. When the studs are "snug" it's perfectly alignment. As soon as you torque it to 52lbs, even if you do it little by little, it all goes out the window. I tried prying on the guide-plates with a screw-diver during torquing as well.
I think if you wanted to weld adjustable guide plates, you should tack weld only after torqued. I tacked when it was "tight" with a wrench. Apparently, not good enough.
For now, I think I will re-order a set, and not weld. Each guide plate is being held be a stud that's under 52lbs of force. Plus they sort of "interlock" together. Welding is really not needed, so I will forgo that next time.
The Edelbrock one piece guide plates showed up today. Check out how well I can get alignment.
I found the secret is using a large flathead as a way to pry during torquing. This will keep the plate from walking.
One side is done. Didn't set lash yet. Will wait until I finish other side to do that. This takes a lot longer than I thought it would. Most of the time is spent fine tuning alignment.
My rocker alignment isn't as pretty as what was pictured in previous post after fully torquing for all valves. Some look like that, but others only get about 70% (at worst) stem contact. Another way to say it, is that the meaty part of the roller is pretty much at the edge of the fat part of the stem....it may be a microscopic amount over (if I cock the rocker all the way to make it a worse-case scenario).
I think this is good to go. If you want perfect, then you'll need to get the two-piece guides.
Here's an example of worse case scenario. Fully cocked to make it look as off center as possible. I believe this is a-ok?
I am a perfectionist if you haven't figured that out yet. LOL.
My “340” is getting close...
I had a panic attack today when I realized I didn't use any thread SEALANT for the rocker studs...but just used ARP fastener lube...
My builder told me that the bosses are sealed. Therefor, I am drinking a beer.
Probably a good 8 hours to align everything. It would be hell to remove the guide-plates again.
I suppose MANY head stud bosses are not sealed in Ford and Chevy land?
Dry fitting!
What are your plans for the intake bolt mounting? Magnum head bolts are vertical and the LA go in angled.
My EQ heads have LA bolt pattern.
Nice, good thing you worked over the brakes.
Quote from: kawahonda on July 04, 2020, 11:48:22 PM
My EQ heads have LA bolt pattern.
:bigthumb: cutouts didn't look like it and was blurry when I zoomed in.
Carry on...
Can you guys tell me what size grade-8 hardware to get for:
1) Carb Bolts. I will be using a 3/8" gasket.
2) Water outlet bolts.
Don't be in a hurry guys!
N/M, I did find the correct bolts for these.
However, I am at a loss. I don't think the LA blocks have a lifter spider, correct? I'm lacking the 3 bolts that fasten this into the block. Curious if anyone knows what they are before I make another hardware stop today.
This weekend I plan to install the timing cover now that the oil spinner is on and the cam bolt is torqued. I'm planning to use Ultra black on both sides of the gasket. I'm planning to also use Ultra black on the water pump gasket as well. For the mounting hardware, I don't know which bolts yet are not sealed, so I just plan to use thread sealer on them all.
As noticed above by someone else, the heads Have the same intake pattern because there is only one pattern but the angle of the threaded intake holes is different. Magnum pattern. Standard manifold will not bolt on. Try it and see.. Grade 8 bolts on the carb and water outlet bolts. ?? The torque for the carb bolts is only 7 ft.lbs Water outlet is 30 ft. lbs. Hardware store is not really the right place to shop for Automotive fasteners especially engine fasteners. They are seldom the correct length or have the correct shoulder lengths. They will normally have fully thread bolts when they should only be partially threaded and have long shoulders. This type of fasteners is much less prone to stretching/failing, which is the reason that the Auto manufacturers seldom use them. They are more expensive but getting your fasteners from companies like ARP and others will assure you of proper thread count, pitch, length and strength for each application. If you do things correctly and I know that is what you always try to do, you will only do it once if you do it right. "saving money is too expensive" in the long run.
http://www.440magnum-network.com/info/tech/engines/smallblock/smblockboltspecif.shtml
http://www.magnumswap.com/magnum-torque-specs/
Just an FYI I put the Factory 300 HP Magnum crate motor in my wifes 73 Challenger 15 years ago. That was before the Gen iii Hemi's were more reasonable and there are now many parts dedicated to early Mopar conversions. Trying to fool someone into thinking that you have a "stock" engine is an old, old hot rodding concept. Most people don't care about that anymore. After someone finds out, everybody will know anyway. Glad that at least you are trying to do it right. And yes the "spider hold down" for the roller lifters is missing and needs to be installed. As I preach to every one all of the time. USE YOUR SERVICE MANUAL !! The info is in there.
The 5.9 Magnum IS an LA engine, it is just the last improvement of the original 1967 casting.
Let's move on from that guys.
Still left:
1) set valve lash
2) get LA cover + magnum pan gasket kit from scram speed (out of stock not
For 3 months)
3) get reproduction passenger manifold heat shield.
I think that's about it...
Oh yeah...got the right formula too...
Quote from: MoparLeo on July 10, 2020, 04:07:52 PM
As noticed above by someone else, the heads Have the same intake pattern because there is only one pattern but the angle of the threaded intake holes is different. Magnum pattern. Standard manifold will not bolt on. Try it and see..
See pic above. When I plan stuff, I plan it right.
Quote from: MoparLeo on July 10, 2020, 04:07:52 PMJust an FYI I put the Factory 300 HP Magnum crate motor in my wifes 73 Challenger 15 years ago. That was before the Gen iii Hemi's were more reasonable and there are now many parts dedicated to early Mopar conversions. Trying to fool someone into thinking that you have a "stock" engine is an old, old hot rodding concept. Most people don't care about that anymore. After someone finds out, everybody will know anyway. Glad that at least you are trying to do it right. And yes the "spider hold down" for the roller lifters is missing and needs to be installed. As I preach to every one all of the time. USE YOUR SERVICE MANUAL !! The info is in there.
Good info. I feel like me and you would blend in like salt and pepper after a 6-pack. 300 HP is 340 level at best. I'm going for far more here. Service manual, nor the "how to build a small block Mopar book" sheds any light upon the size of the spider bolts for the Magnum block. No manual, ever, will tell you thread size, pitch, and size of bolts. No need to worry though, because I found 3 bolts in the parts washer. :)
Quote from: MoparLeo on July 10, 2020, 04:07:52 PMThe 5.9 Magnum IS an LA engine, it is just the last improvement of the original 1967 casting.
This is where I have to disagree with you, and even my engine builder. But only to some extent. Yes, it's "basically" the same, but there are enough differences when bolting it all together that sometimes you have to say "Magnum" and "LA". You even said it yourself. "NO WAY THAT LA INTAKE WILL BOLT TO THOSE MAGNUM HEADS!!" Well, you just proved my point. Except, my EQ Magnum heads are drilled for LA bolt pattern....as I've mentioned several pages back.
It also pays to say "Magnum" when talking about other things because there are TRUE differences. Magnum uses roller lifters, a spider below intake. Magnum block accept a slightly different oil pan. No problem if using all magnum components, but once you bolt on a LA timing chain cover with a magnum mid-sump aftermarket pan, you need to start differentiating. Stick some reproduction LA valve covers on magnum heads, may be better off with LA gaskets....see what I mean?
Only know if you tried to mix and max....
But I guess I'm doing the boring and stupid hot-rod thing, and I won't fool anyone. :)
Spent enough on this build for it not to be cheap. Not that it will earthquake everything around it, but at least I did things to make it look STOCK, using reproduction, and period correct pieces only...
Been there done that myself...
La motor Magnum accessories. Including Magnum intake.
Know full well what will and will not work.
Offered a little constructive help. That is what this forum is all about...
Enjoy your build as there is now one less that is givs a shit about it.
Out.
Your reply...
And this is the last one from me.
Just realized that I will need to get a small block oil filter adapter. Does anyone have any spares sitting around?
Been slowly moving over the past few months.
Today I set the valve lash and preload to in between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn.
Started to mount the LD-340 intake, but learned that I need to use a thicker gasket (.030 and 060 was not enough). I measured it out to needing about .120 which thankfully I found on Summit. I also did some very slight reaming of the intake bolt holes so that the bolts would not mar the aluminum. After dry fitting with the new gaskets, I'm betting that I will need .25" or even slightly thicker cork gaskets for the front and rear rails. That didn't go as easy as planned!
Installed two drain plugs in the block today as well.
I also fitted the LA pan to the magnum block, and used the "wedge" method to seal the skirts. Feel pretty good about it, shouldn't leak. Oil pickup tube height is proper.
I still need to get a fuel pump for it. I know there's the basic ones which is the one I should probably get. Carter makes some higher flow-rate ones, which some say you need a fuel pressure regulator. I'm not sure if there's an "in-between" one out there? Could use some advice here.
Other than that, it's nearing paint time!
Wanted to ask you guys: Is it better to lower in the new small block with the manifolds attached, or without the manifolds attached? Power sterering, non-power brake car.
This will basically provide me with the next step. Thanks in advance!
Pics!
Quote from: kawahonda on September 27, 2020, 08:05:56 PM
Wanted to ask you guys: Is it better to lower in the new small block with the manifolds attached, or without the manifolds attached? Power sterering, non-power brake car.
This will basically provide me with the next step. Thanks in advance!
The 3 motor swaps I've been involved in we left the exhaust manifolds in the car.
Don't have to disconnect from the exhaust pipes that way .. If your replacing them it's probably easier to put them on first.. :alan2cents: