Hey guys,
So the drive line place I brought some parts to called me today with bad news. I brought them my 8 3/4 chunk to replace the bearings and seals, and press new bearings on my axles. I also figured it would be a good idea to give them my driveshaft, to have them balance it. Well, they said it can't be balanced due to a dent (it's been sitting in my garage for quite some time, and I really didn't inspect it well before giving it to them). :'(
They told me they can make a new driveshaft, but I really wanted to keep things looking factory original.
Thoughts? Anyone have a good used original they want to sell? :please:
There's no numbers on a drive line (that I recall) so making a new one is not a big deal. I would tell them to go for it! Make a new one.
Get a new one made up. They'll probably go ahead and reuse your ends anyway and weld a new tube between them.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on January 18, 2019, 05:51:35 PM
There's no numbers on a drive line (that I recall) so making a new one is not a big deal. I would tell them to go for it! Make a new one.
Hi Cody. I like the idea of a new driveshaft in regard to peace of mind, but I think the appearance would be different due to the original shaft having that taper down to a smaller diameter toward the rear of the car.
& they do have part numbers stamped in them :rubeyes: many are tough to find/read after 48+ years
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-CUDA-DRIVESHAFT-HEMI-440-7290-UNIVERSAL-JOINT-DANA-SPICER-60-9-3-4-/202482532111?nma=true&si=XQAO6GH2E%252FLmwUNzRaDpDIDkB7U%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I did see this a while ago and in 2 of the photos there are some numbers stamped into the tube, this is a NOS shaft and not a production one so these numbers may not have been used on shafts that went into cars. Maybe best to have a new tube made up with your ends and tell them not to discard your old dented tube, take it home and clean it up and carefully look for any stamped numbers if you find them using the old tube as a guide carefully replicate them onto the new part.
Quote from: 6bblgt on January 18, 2019, 06:18:56 PM
& they do have part numbers stamped in them :rubeyes: many are tough to find/read after 48+ years
You posted this while I was still typing looks like they do have numbers after all.
The dent will more than likely NOT affect the performance of the driveshaft. The driveshaft would have been balanced when it was made and having a dent would not change that. The only issue would be the visible dent.
As it is very easy to remove and replace a driveshaft, I would just try it with the new U-Joints, drive it and see if you have any vibrations, you'll know right away if the shaft got warped from the dent :alan2cents:
I wonder if the dent could be removed some how?
Quote from: Jim AAR on January 18, 2019, 06:30:29 PM
The dent will more than likely NOT affect the performance of the driveshaft. The driveshaft would have been balanced when it was made and having a dent would not change that. The only issue would be the visible dent.
As it is very easy to remove and replace a driveshaft, I would just try it with the new U-Joints, drive it and see if you have any vibrations, you'll know right away if the shaft got warped from the dent :alan2cents:
In my opinion, the driveshaft is as strong as it is because the uniform diameter. It's thin wall tubing that hits well above it's weight due to the geometry, not by the base material or material thickness.
The dent will make a pretty significant stress riser, which may not be a problem for putting around or getting home, but I would
never use one in harsh conditions.
I wonder if you couldn't use that tool that welds the studs on for pulling dents out and then you grind the stud off. You probably have to get the tube cherry red with a torch before the metal would move.
Quote from: Rich G. on January 18, 2019, 07:28:04 PM
I wonder if you couldn't use that tool that welds the studs on for pulling dents out and then you grind the stud off. You probably have to get the tube cherry red with a torch before the metal would move.
I was thinking that too!
Have an entire new one made to use. Keep the old if you want original.
With a dent like that I would put money on the table that it is bent. With a dent like that on a true cylinder the surrounding metal had to go somewhere.
Fix? Drill a small hole in opposite side to put a bar thru. Heat dent and tap it out. Then plug weld hole. Cosmetic repair only. I would still go with new.
Mike.
I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I wasn't expecting this drive shaft issue. Am I being crazy thinking about looking for a good, used original?
I was thinking of the weld stud type dent removal tool also, another way is to drill, tap and add an air fitting (anywhere on the tube) then add air pressure inside the tube then heat the edge of the dent and the air pressure will push the dent up and you add heat where you need it to rise as you go and use an air line to cool and prevent it coming out too far. But get the shaft spun in a lathe before you do anything to be sure it is just a compression dent and the shaft is not bent at all.
If you decide to go new, I got my replacement shaft from Dr Diff. Just need to tell him what ujoints you use. It's a Spicer drive shaft.
It has been a couple years now, but i think i paid 300 or 350 bucks.
I would change it if you're going to drive it. You will need a new yoke on one end as the replacement tubes are not tapered. I would look for a good used one if you can.
Any difference between a 71 and a 73 auto?? I have a stock 73 with 7260 u-joints and new 727 trans yoke and u-joints installed last year.
I am doing an A-41 overdrive with new driveshaft...
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on January 19, 2019, 11:02:56 AM
Any difference between a 71 and a 73 auto?? I have a stock 73 with 7260 u-joints and new 727 trans yoke and u-joints installed last year.
I am doing an A-41 overdrive with new driveshaft...
Great question. Anyone know?
the 2883636 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1970 to 1972
(43-19/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7290) *
the 2883769 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1970
(43-27/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7290) *
the 2996134 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1971 to 1974
(43-25/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7260)
* I think one of these driveshafts has 7290 u-joint on one end & 7260 u-joint on the other :dunno:
the 904 driveshafts are longer (~4-1/8")
the 7-1/4' driveshafts are longer (~2") the 904 & 7-1/4" combination (~6-1/8" longer)
the DANA 60 driveshafts are shorter (~1-1/4")
Quote from: 6bblgt on January 19, 2019, 01:23:28 PM
the 2883636 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1970 to 1972
(43-19/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7290) *
the 2883769 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1970
(43-27/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7290) *
the 2996134 driveshaft was used for PP833 & 727 with 8-3/4" Barracudas from 1971 to 1974
(43-25/32" lg. x 3-1/4" dia. w/7260)
* I think one of these driveshafts has 7290 u-joint on one end & 7260 u-joint on the other :dunno:
the 904 driveshafts are longer (~4-1/8")
the 7-1/4' driveshafts are longer (~2") the 904 & 7-1/4" combination (~6-1/8" longer)
the DANA 60 driveshafts are shorter (~1-1/4")
Thank you! :cheers:
The 70-71 spec from parts manual was listed in another thread not long ago... depending on engine, it might be same part number, from what I see.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/driveshaft-length/9638/
I'm not against having a new one built, but does anyone know why the factory driveshaft tapered down in diameter at one end (rear)? The shop said the new one would not be like that...it would all be one diameter. :notsure:
I think the reason for the taperd drive shaft is the pinion snubber is just above the drive shaft, this would leave a little extra space for the shaft. I would replace the shaft, but first try driven at different speeds, up to 80_ 90 if no vibration shaft will be ok :burnout:
Quote from: halftrackman on January 20, 2019, 09:05:02 AM
I think the reason for the taperd drive shaft is the pinion snubber is just above the drive shaft, this would leave a little extra space for the shaft. I would replace the shaft, but first try driven at different speeds, up to 80_ 90 if no vibration shaft will be ok :burnout:
Thank you! I think I'm going to try that.
Thanks to all for all the great feedback and wisdom. This truly is a great place for Mopar community and knowledge! :drinkingbud: :wrenching: :cheers: :thankyou:
The smaller end diameter is to give extra clearance to the floor when/if you have three people or weight in the back. I had a new shaft made and it has struck the floor even with the pinion snubber fitted because it did not have that smaller rear section, it was full diameter all the way, yes my car is stock ride height to very slightly lower, before I swapped out shafts I never had the problem.
Quote from: Crash520 on January 20, 2019, 10:14:45 AM
The smaller end diameter is to give extra clearance to the floor when/if you have three people or weight in the back. I had a new shaft made and it has struck the floor even with the pinion snubber fitted because it did not have that smaller rear section, it was full diameter all the way, yes my car is stock ride height to very slightly lower, before I swapped out shafts I never had the problem.
Wow, that is really good to know...Thank you. I'll be looking for a good original piece if mine causes a vibration.
The new d-shaft I got is the smaller diameter the entire length. :alan2cents:
Quote from: dodj on January 20, 2019, 01:16:37 PM
The new d-shaft I got is the smaller diameter the entire length. :alan2cents:
Ah, that makes sense. Thank you!