E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

I started a thread at C-C.com for my 73 Challenger back late 2012 and decided to continue my thread here instead. Link to the old thread:

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=89646.0

I started with some minor freshen up of the interior and got snowball to way more than I anticipated. I finally reached a key milestone last week since I got the engine back from the builder a few months ago. I can see the possibility of getting the engine started in a few weeks. Today I hooked up the steering column to the Borgeson steering box. Unlike the stock box, the Borgeson  box sit in an angle toward the fender but it mate up with the column nicely. Turned it back and forth a few times and there is no binding. I can feel the resistance in the steering wheel even with the car up in the air, nice and tight. May be the gear box is dry but overall it feels good. However, there is a slight play from the center, about 2 to 3 degrees.

More work up ahead like putting back the drive shaft, exhaust, front brake and brake bleeding, alignment etc before turing the key. I think I better make a check list to make sure I don't miss anything. My memory is not like my younger days.

 :lookatthat:  Very nice work!!!  Super exciting time now.  You are almost running and then comes the  :burnout:

Looks great  :twothumbsup:
Thanks for continuing the thread here too !
If the engine has not been run I have a start up guide in the archives section , I always leave the power steering disconnected os there is no need to shut down the engine during break in if there is a problem with the power steering .
Take your time & do everything 100% be fore you fire it , no hurry after this long !!

Warren,

Looking forward to a get together Mopar Cruise.  :cheers:

@Burdar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/burdar_173) you might like this one.

So is that JA5?  Love that color with the black.  I know, one part leads to another and another and another and it seems like there is no stopping. Looks like you almost "there". 

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 16, 2018, 09:23:46 PM
Your shift linkage is likely not adjusted properly. If it isn't fully going into Park the dog won't push in the safety switch enough to connect the switch.

Runcharger. You are right Sir. Thank You. :thankyou:

I adjusted the shifter linkage and now the engine crank over in park and in neutral positions. Backup light still does not work. I connected the two outer female sockets at the connector and the lights come on intermittently and I have to move the wire clip around. Sometimes the light will come on and as soon as I move the jumper wire a little, the light is off. It would not work if hook up to the safety switch. I think the wire inside the connector is most likely bad since the switch is new. Looks like I need a new wiring harness so I placed the order for one at YO. I don't want to fill the trans before getting this taken care of first. So close and no cigar. At least the mini starter sounds strong.

Great: Now is the time to replace wiring if there are any issues. Also check your ground at the light/bumper as well. Fresh paint makes for bad grounds.

I got the engine crank over at P and in N the other day but no reverse light. I just changed the switch and got no crank in P or in N but I have reverse light. When center wire at the plug is grounded then the engine crank over. Why I can't get both to work. I am going to pull the switch back out to compare the two. May be is a manufacturing process defect. :steamingmad:

Now I got engine crank and reverse light except the reverse light is on in all forward gears.  This is with the first switch afted i rotate the white plastic part of the switch a half turn. The second switch centrr metal pin is shorter than the first by a little. Not sure if that is making a difference. I am heading to Napa auto parts and try a new switch.

The third switch from Napa auto does the same as the first. :angry: looking inside the trans I can see the green plastic cover rotates with the gear lever. The P and N positions have the metal contacts and they line up with the switch in their respective positions. The reverse position has a depressed slot and line up with the switch. It should allow the center pin to extend fully. I tested the switch with a test light and power is made when pin is not depressed and open the circuit when the pin is depressed. It all make sense with the setup but i don't understand why it is not working. The wiring and grounding of the reverse light is good because it stayed on with the first switch after I rotated the plastic part. I think I damaged the first switch doing that as the pin do not depressed freely and that is why light stays on in all forward gears. I also tried putting on two o rings with the metal gasket on the third switch but got cranking and no reverse light.

I am going back at it after I finish my coffee. I will pull the switch and measured the depth of the plastic gear to the trans housing. This should be a fairly simple circuit electrically and not sure why it is not working.

Worst I get one or the other. What would you pick, reverse light or safety engine start interlocking?

Hmm: I would try unplugging it and just use a jumper wire in the plug, that will see if your circuits are okay. You can get it all working, just stay on it.

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 28, 2018, 10:17:10 AM
Hmm: I would try unplugging it and just use a jumper wire in the plug, that will see if your circuits are okay. You can get it all working, just stay on it.

Switch, wiring  all tested ok. Played with the linkage but still no go. Got engine cranking and the stubborn reverse light won't come on. I am going to drop the transmission pan to try to see from the inside. I am guessing that the rooster comb may be off just a little  preventing the pin to release and make the circuit.

I agree that it sounds like an alignment issue with the NSS.  If i recall correctly the factory manual has a procedure for installing and adjusting.  I can check mine tonight when i get home.

Are the threads into the tranny good and clean?  if they got paint or grime in them maybe its not getting the switch to seat right. 

I had similar issues on my super bee.  the new switches are garbage too unfortunately.  i've been through several. 

you may be able to tweak the rooster comb a little through the hole without dropping the pan
could be a problem with the new switches as well as you said the pin is longer on one switch

Thanks for everyone's inputs. I fixed the problem tonight by trimming the rooster comb insulator at the reverse position to create more depth allowing the pin to fully extend. I think it was just shy a hair. I made a separate post and hope it might help others like me. The long version here with pictures.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/neutral-safety-switch/5460/

Good work! Great news, glad you got it working.

Looks great!  love it.  :cooldance:

I finally got the engine started today. I prime the carb with some fuel at the vents and filled about 5 gallons of 91 octane into the tank. It started on first crank and the engine ran like crap spitting unburned fuel at the tailpipe. It felt like something is missing but no backfire. I shut her down after about 5 minutes and started scratching my hair. I checked the coil connection and then the sparkplug wires and found one was loose at the distributor. After I started her the second time, the valves at the PS was tapping a little. It quiet down after about two minutes. This time it ran much better and no more smoke at the tailpipe. Temp went up to about 180 F and stay there. 13 in of vacuum and steady and volt meter read about 13.8 volt. After warm up, it idle at around 1050 RPM from the timing light. Seems high and I slow it down to about 900 RPM but the engine does not seems to like it. It has a Comp Cam XR292-HR-10, intake 242 (.549), exhaust 248 (.544) at 0.05 with 1.6 rocker. Timing is way off and I will be working on that and some tuning next weekend. I have to do some reading first since it had been awhile. Overall not too bad and way better than I imagined before turning the key. There were just a few drops of coolant from the water pump alternator bracket bolt, had to fix the fuel leak at the line to the carb and tighten a few joints at the brake line. Fuel gauge was not moving and it has a new sender. May be not enough fuel in the tank?

After some tuning, I will lower the car on it's wheels, tighten the LCA pivot pins and try to set the front wheel alignment before taking her around the block. Then I will try to replace the passenger side window.

Here is a video that I took from today on the second start.

That's looking good. Always nice to get the first start out of the way.

Just keep picking the bugs off 1 at a time. You will get there.
Love the color.

Moke

Can't wait to see you and your car again.

Let's put some miles on the roads sometime.   :cheers:

Thanks Mike. Look forward to the drive. :stayinlane:

Before that, I need to tie up a few remaining loose ends and hope there are no more surprises. Then comes the actual road tests to flush out the bugs.

Finally finished my rough front wheel alignment late on Sunday. I used the Fastrax gauge, wheel turn plates and toe plates I got from Amazon. After a few hours, I managed to get about -0.8 camber, 1/16 toe in. The caster readings were past the scale which is +12. I followed the YouTube video by turn out 15 degrees and set caster gauge to zero. Turn wheel in 15 degrees to read the caster scale. My garage floor is not perfectly flat and has a slight uphill slope. I figure that might be screwing up my readings. I have PST tubular upper control arms but don't think I can get readings like that. Steering wheel is now off center a little. It was centered before I started. I am going to make an appointment for alignment this coming Saturday and let the Pros handle it. I think I might have found an old garage near me in business for 60+ years and there were bunch of classic cars that they serviced. Four and a half stars on Yelp.

So after all that work till Sunday evening, I started the car, let the engine warm up and then back it out the garage for its maiden voyage around the block. Car went around the block at street speed limit of 25 mph. A few squeaks here and there. Engine is a little rough in gear idle at around 750 RPM, no ping and did not stall. Brake light stayed on (more checking and troubleshooting). Mixture reads about 12.6 to 12.8. Might need jetting down a little after things settle down. Overall very pleased. Saturday will be a 3 miles drive to the alignment shop. :banana:

Sounds like normal adjustments needed. The wheel must want to return to center fairly bad on the turns.

Very cool

If you have it set close to where you want it all you have to do is add length to 1 tie rod by the equal amount removed from the other side to center the wheel , I have often found I liked the settings I created more then the ones a shop set to so you may have it set up better already  :alan2cents:

Thanks CP. I will give that a try this weekend.  I measured the tie rods with a ruler and was trying  to set it equal length between them while getting to toe in setting. I am just off center just a little. So are the caster readings I have really matter much as long as it is positive? Other posts said get as much caster as possible.

I assemble it with all the tie rods turned in the same amount, After I do caster and camber I keep the steering wheel straight and set the left tie rod so that wheel is pointing straight back (with help from a long piece of iron touching the front and back sidewall of the tire), then I do my toe in. After that I go for a drive and readjust if necessary but it usually isn't necessary.

Worked on the alignment today. Some progress and got the steering wheel pointing straight. However two sides are not the same and I post a thread in the suspension part of the forum for help.

Saw a 73 and a 67 Camaros roaming down the streets in my neighborhood today and these Chevy guys are having fun. I need to get my classic Mopar out.

I am sitting in the car on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow truck. I was driving on the freeway right lane going about 70 mph, below 3500 RPM. I gave it a little more gas and all of sudden a loud bang and car is shaking and engine die. Luckily I was in the right lane and got over to the shoulder. Pop the hood and I can see some oil dripping down at the bell housing. I don't even know what it is until car is in the garage. It won't crank over now.

I am very depress after all the work done to it in 3 years.  :crying:

Yikes: Let us know what you find.

Quote from: 7212Mopar on April 01, 2018, 04:54:09 PM
I am sitting in the car on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow truck. I was driving on the freeway right lane going about 70 mph, below 3500 RPM. I gave it a little more gas and all of sudden a loud bang and car is shaking and engine die. Luckily I was in the right lane and got over to the shoulder. Pop the hood and I can see some oil dripping down at the bell housing. I don't even know what it is until car is in the garage. It won't crank over now.

I am very depress after all the work done to it in 3 years.  :crying:

Yuck, sorry to hear this... :sorry:  "dislike"

Oh... serious bummer!  :o

Hope you get this figured out soon.

Car arrived home dead. Tow driver was nice enough to tackle a slope driveway and help position the car mostly inside the garage. He then helped me to push the car in all the way. I put the car on wheel dollies afterward to position the car to one side so wife can park.  All i can see is trans oil drpping down. Engine breather is blown out and gone. Engine won't crank over in park. It cranked over in neutral but won't start and backfire through the carb. I don't feel like looking anymore tonight. I will jack it up on Saturday, pull the spark plugs and see. I probably won't like what I will find. This is going to be a major setback. Also promised the wife to finish building the deck this summer thinking car is finished.

Car was moving along nicely. The alignment was good. All i did was gas it a little and it popped, not even half pedal. :madashell: Need to calm down and think through this. 

Oh sorry to hear that one...

Quote from: nsmall on November 12, 2017, 09:36:27 PM
Just stole this of your cc thread...."Got news today that the engine is done. Builder said it runs strong, easy to start. Video sounds awesome. Dyno numbers came slightly under target at 491 HP and 528 TQ. I have no compliant and quite delighted to see this part done." :stayinlane:

The quote above is from the first page of this thread.  Does the builder guarantee their work?  1/2 throttle should not break anything.

I am trully sorry to hear this as we all know how much time and money we invest and then this happens.   :headbang:  Take a break like you have planned, maybe call the builder.

Sorry

What a sickening feeling, feel for ya.  :sorry:   :popcorn:
Tomorrow is a new day.....

If the engine is still turning over it sounds more like a trans problem but it should still fire up  :thinking:

I was thinking trans problem as well but it sounds like it blew the breather off and it is backfiring. I think I would pull the valve covers and check everything and turn the engine over. After that I would find out what is going on with the trans. How does the engine oil and water look? I hate to say it but maybe something exited the block and cut a trans line? It likely wouldn't turn over though.

Finally got around to face the issue. I tried starting the engine but no go. It would not crank in park but crank in neutral. Check the engine oil and there is no coolant. After jacking the car up, no oil leak found and no hole on the side of the engine. On the other hand, the transmission casing is split opened at the bell housing and extend to the back. I cannot see how fat it goes but at least to the casing above the transmission pan. I dropped the starter shield and looks like the flexplate and  torque converter is still good. No oil coming out from the crankshaft seal. I hope these are good sign. I am draining the transmission fluid now. It looks clean and no burn smell. Next step will be pull the exhaust and driveshaft and get ready to lower the transmission. Does anyone know where I can pick up a 4 speed housing and flywheel cheap so that I can test my engine to make sure it is good before replacing with a sb 727? I am thinking of picking up a TCI Streetfighter that has a warranty.

Anyone has ideas as to what could had caused this kind of damage? When I installed the trans I made sure the converter is seated all the way. I measured the torque converter bolt flange to the trans case per TCI's instruction and was all good.Torque converter line up perfect with the flexplate and bolted down with ARP bolts no problem. The trans was bolted to the engine and the two index and all bolt holes lined up and everything bolted together. Trans fluid was Dextron III and at mid way of the hatch mark when warm. I also have a trans cooler in font bypassing the radiator. Did I miss something during install that might cause this? The trans was rebiult by the shop that built the trans for my engine builder. He used the same A904 setup drag racing his Duster. The internal of the trans was upgraded with perforamnce parts and suppose to handle the horsepower level I have. I was may be at half pedal if not less, below 3500 RPM and around 70 mph when this happen.

Holy Crap!  :rubeyes:
Man I am so sorry to see that after the work and money you put in it. I am sure the more knowledgeable people on her can give you
some advise.

Crickets! First thing I thought of was the convertor not seated correctly but you checked that. Other than that I think something came apart in the trans, it didn't come apart because of you romping on it. It came apart because it wasn't assembled correctly. You can also leave the torque on the engine and use a bare 727 case to mount the starter and attempt starting the engine. You have to pull this trans anyway obviously, when you do pull the trans. measure your crank shaft end play before doing anything else.
Hopefully the trans guy will warranty the trans. Of course at this point it is all conjecture.

Quote from: 71-440 on April 08, 2018, 04:42:58 PM
Holy Crap!  :rubeyes:
Man I am so sorry to see that after the work and money you put in it. I am sure the more knowledgeable people on her can give you
some advise.

Holy Crap is right.   :unbelievable:

Just glad nothing grenade'd up thru the floors on you.

No kidding Mike. Thinking about putting down a Kevlar vest on top of the trans tunnel now. Looks like Mopar Alley this year is not happening but I should be there.

Wow did that ever come apart!  :unbelievable:

Yikes! I feel for ya. Hoping for the best and the builder will stand behind their work.

Ugh, hate to see that happen .
Could it be that either the engine motor mount or trans mount are loose that caused a twisting motion to cause the break ?

Shifter linkage, drive shaft, trans cooler lines removed. Front U joint brand new Spicer is busted with one cup disappear. Otherwise drive shaft and yoke is still ok. Rear ends spins smoothly so it should be ok and no leak. Looks like the crack extended to the top of the trans case. I am afraid the front of the trans is being supported off of the converter, flexplate to the engine crank.

I would think any trans, drive shaft misalignment will cause bad vibration which I did not feel any. It should not cause this kind of failure. Car was moving when gas pedal pressure was increased and was not from a stand still full throttle. I wonder if anything locked up internally :thinking:. I will continue next weekend.

You won't know until pulling it apart and even then it might be hard to find the root cause. It could be the Sprag coming apart or a snap ring not being seated for example. I would deliver it to the builder as-is and let him dissect it.
TCI doesn't have the best reputation in the Torqueflite world, maybe talk to someone like Cope if you want a complete transmission.

@7212Mopar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/7212mopar_441)

I am so sorry to read about your troubles.   :Thud:  Really stinks.

Have you had a chance to look into whats up?  I hope someone will step up and work with you on this.

Dont give up, take a break if you have to.  You got this, hang in there.

Quote from: nsmall on May 30, 2018, 03:23:59 PM
Glad to hear you are moving forward.  I am still cheering for you down south as you are so close.  Hang in there.

And yet another socal cheer.   

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 30, 2018, 07:15:21 PM
Glad it is coming together. Your original convertor was a TCI? Personally I have not had good luck with their stuff. Good luck with the new parts.

Yes. Brand new TCI Street fighter torque converter with less than 5 miles on it.

 :veryexcited: Got call today that the transmission has arrived at the shipping depot. I will be renting a truck to go pick it up this coming Monday. My Challenger shall rise again.

Thats what we want to hear.  Yeah!!!

 :banana: :banana: :pixiepop: :pixiepop:

That's great: I bet you can hardly wait.

First time I've opened this thread in to long... Sorry about the carnage, glad it wasn't worse... FWIW I can confirm your failure was probably the U joint... I saw virtually the same damage 25 years ago on a 440-6 Challenger .... The U joint cap was probably missing it's snap ring, Mopar uses inner snap rings that lots of guys with GM or Ford experience seem to miss... When the cap leaves the cross shifts to the side & locks the shaft... When that happens the trans case gets a huge shock, something big is gonna break....

All 8 clips were installed and in the grooves of the new U joints. May be it came off at the wrong moment when I apply the gas. Also thinking if problem with hydraulic circuits causing gears to lock up but there was no internal damage. This one will remain one of the unsolved mystery.

Quote from: 7212Mopar on April 08, 2018, 07:55:50 PM
Front U joint brand new Spicer is busted with one cup disappear. Otherwise drive shaft and yoke is still ok.

If the driveshaft & yoke still have full retaining loops and the cap is gone then a clip escaped.....

I know 727 was heavy duty and 904 is supposed to be light duty. But I did not know the 727 is much beefier than a 904 when having them side by side. Pump, front input shaft, rear output shaft and the case are all bigger. The 904 parts looks wimpy next to the 727. CRT packaged the trans so well that it took me 30 minutes to remove the trans from the box. The trans looks great and clean. I should had bought one from them from the get go instead of have my 904 rebuit. I will start transferring some parts over to the new trans soon. This time I am going to test the safety switch to make sure it works in the trans before I bolt it to the engine. I will take my time this go around and check three times on everthing.

The CRT catalog that came with the trans has a write up of the company history. It was an interesting read how father transfer the skills and knowledge to the next generation. Don't see that often now.

Keep at it and maybe find a person whose familiar with everything for a little insurance as we are all wishing you the best for a successful 2nd try.

Just opened this thread and saw your problems.  :unbelievable: :crying: :verymad:

You're running full length headers so you weren't able to reinstall the factory "engine to trans" braces.  I wonder if that contributed to the issue?  I know a lot of people run without those braces but the factory put them there for a reason.  It sure would be nice to have custom braces to support the bottom of the bell.  :alan2cents:

Well, at least my engine is ok. Better fails early then when I am trying to put the pedal to the metal or hundred of miles from home. I think I am over that now and very excited to see my new 727. It looks so much tougher.

Previous owner (probably second) replaced the original 318 with a 340. Presumably I bought the car from the third owner (I think). The car did not come with the trans brace brackets even the engine had the factory cast iron manifolds. I have no clue how the brackets look so will be doing some googling soon and see if I can put them back in. When I am ready to order the new driveshaft, I will get the 7290 U joints and run a conversion joint at the differential, grease and make sure all the U joints move freely. Probably should check the drive shaft angle too.

Got my new 727 trans installed about two weeks ago. It was a balancing act to jack the car and engine up high enough to slide the trans under. Too bad my garage is not big and tall enough for a two posts lift. It took me a few hours to line up the trans at the right position and angle to mate with the engine. The HF trans jack has too much play in it and would tilt over after I made the adjustment. Found out the trans oil pan did not come with a drain so I replaced it with a TCI cast aluminum deep pan. When I opened the trans up, I found a piece of packaging foam inside. So glad that I decided to change the pan. The TCI pan is nice but the hardware like filter extension and filter is a lot less desirable. The extension is made out of some kind of sintered metal whereas other deep pans that I have machined and polished aluminum block. Also, the filter is some kind of synthetic fine mesh screen of two layers. I wonder how well it works. The gasket is a thin paper type so I reused the thick molded gasket that came with the trans. The back up light did not work as suspected and I had to do the same surgery to the rooster comb again to release the NSS pin at the reverse position.


I ordered a new driveshaft and now waiting for delivery. The shop would not build the driveshaft the way I requested pretty much saying I am asking for trouble with the engine application I have. He convinced me so I am going with 1350 U-joints front and back. I will need to contact Cass to order a 1350 pinion yoke, seal, and crush sleeve eliminator for my 489 case. I will be getting a dial torque gauge to check the existing preload first before disassembly. l think it is going to be a challenge to torque the pinion nut to 285 ft-lb laying on my back. Will see how that goes when time comes. So more work to be done and hoping the car can be on the road for testing before raining season starts.

Looking good. It seems to me the kickdown linkage is different 904 to 727 but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone else knows.

I am running Bouchillon Performance cable system.

Very glad to hear you are moving along.  Reach out to Cass soon as I had a friend who recently had to wait for 3 months for a part, but your parts sound common so hopefully you will be fine.

Hopefully you are doing right this time so going  the extra mile will be worth it in the long run. :bradsthumb:

I know how its frustrating when one thing leads to another and another and another. 

My attempt to change out the pinion yoke failed and I ordered a new 8-3/4 center section from Dr. diff about two weeks ago and it arrived today. The unit was placed in a new 5 gallons bucket and then boxed with a lot of cushions. That thing is heavy and UPs just left it next to my driveway. Plan is to install it this weekend. The housing is already cleaned and prepped. Afterward I will send in my last measurement for the driveshaft and hope to get it in a few weeks. Put the rear brakes and exhaust back on. Tidy up a few things and she is ready to start. Lesson learned is not to do your test drive on April 1, period.

The Dr. Diff piece is based on new 489 casting. My original is also a 489 case. When having my original section (silver) side by side with the new (black), you can see some slight differences. Most notably is the nose where the old has a step but the new does not and is bigger. Next is where the pinion snubber is mounted where the new casting seems beefier. Other than the LSD, the mounting hardware are slightly different as well. I am going to change out bearings on my old diff. All the gears seems to be in great shape and not much wear. I am sure it has many more miles left in it.

Keep at it, so close now.   :bradsthumb:

I have nothing to add except, dang that is a good looking car!

Been a while. Gotta be close now.   :popcorn:

Hey Mike. I worked on it whenever I have time but I do admit I am on the slow side. Also checking and second guessing myself on the work along the way. I hate to see it fail on me again. Anyway, I tightened the exhaust pipe clamps and align the tips last night and tonight will do some touch up painting on all the scratches I made. Other than that, the plan is check fluid one more time, get gas on Saturday and prime the carb and fire up the engine. I will let it run with the car still on jack stands to see how things go. If all goes well, I will take it down and go around the block and the neighborhood. Probably won't take it up on the freeway to shakedown until putting some miles on the trans and diff. Fingers crossed,  :andyangel: I will update this weekend.

I am taking next Wednesday off and going to swing by to Jeff's (70Pumpkin) place to see if we can figure out his engine stalling problem. We plan to look for vacuum leak, bad hoses, electrical and the float. 

Nice job!!!

I tidy up a few things yesterday and poured in five gallons of fuel in the tank and prime the fuel bowls. Turned the key and engine comes to life with just a few crank revolutions. Engine was running very rich and the AF was about 12.8. After engine warmed up I start making adjustment of timing, mixture and idle speed. Initial around 11 to 12 and 39 at around 3000 RPM, no ping. The engine dose not seems to like less than 10 initial. I got AF down to about 14.5 at idle and it will drop to about 12.5 or so as RPM increases. I will play with it some more down the line.

Since the tail pipes are pointing to the inside of the garage (how tow truck pushed it in the garage back in April), I managed to fill the whole house with gas fumes and the smoke detectors kept tripping on. Naturally  I got an earful from the wife. It was pretty bad because I probably ran it for at least 45 minutes on the jack stands. I kind of feel bad about it because the air quality in the Bay Area is already bad due to the fires, probably the least popular guy in the neighborhood now.

The brake warning light stays on and I am going to try to bleed the rear brakes one more time. I will then lower the car and take it around the block to see how it drives.

Video link moved to a newer reply.

Excellent.

@7212Mopar (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/7212mopar_441)

Your video is not playing.  Maybe its my computer/internet.

Sorry you upset the Mrs., but its time to get this project going so I was delighted to hear your newest post.

I had to change springs and make some changes on the distributor (didnt need the adjustable plate sold by FBO, my distributor is adjustable internally)  in order to get rid of the pinging.  My pinging is 100% gone and my car runs way better.  Chrycho Psycho helped me out big time.  Just tossing in the info in case you need it.  I am still surprised how crucial timing is in order to get a car to run right.

looking forward to seeing a nasty burn out one day from you.

PS running the car up in the air sounds like a good idea as long as its safe as I know you dont want to redo this car again as crossing the finish line on this baby has been a real  :headbang:

Quote from: Topcat on December 02, 2018, 06:59:22 PM
This Spring, I would like to do a E Bodies.org gang long run.

Los Gatos meeting, and head to Gilroy, to Watsonville, thru the Redwoods, then heading back.

We've got at least 5 or 6 maybe more to possibly go.

Hope you'll be ready for that. 

:fingerscrossed:

Wanna make it REALLY long? I'll join up if you swing by Thunder Bay Ontario Canada...... 8)

I wouldn't get stuck on the Fitech if they can't supply it. Holley makes a good system too.

Warren,

Big Mopar cruise planned in May.

San Jose Bass Pro Shops to Alameda Naval Air Base.

We need you there for that.   :cheers:

I need the FCC2 so I don't have to get an inline pump that can fail easy. I also got a new SS stock replacement tank. I don't think Holley makes a FCC2 or similar. May be combine the FCC2 with the Sniper EFI.

Mike, I am feeling the pressure now. I hate to miss another one. Waiting for Summit to respond.

After some waiting, about a month ago, Summit automatic order cancellation kicked in and sent me an email that my Fitech order was cancelled. Called them to reinstate the order and the lady told me the goods are in stock and they can ship the same day. So I said great, lets do it. Not knowing that this resulted in a new order date and my $100 Fitech mail in rebate is no longer applicable. Anyway, I am still pleased that I got it the following day and started the install in the following few weeks. Everything is nicely packaged and good quality. The only exception is the handheld power supply terminal. They picked the smallest form factor of the male end power pin. It is really wimpy and won't stay connected and powered up if you move the handheld around. Really bad design.

I had to remove the washer bottle and fab a mounting bracket for mounting the FCC 2 but it is a good spot for it. I don't plan to drive the car on a rainy day so it would be ok. The rest of the install was very simple since I prepped the engine area ahead of time and the TTI header already have the bung for the O2 sensor. I did howerver, had to get a new air filter lid becasue I needed to use a 1/2" extension in order to clear the fuel line connection from the drop base air cleaner. The new lid is shorter than my old lid which only left about 1/8" clearance to the hood. I have about 1/2" now with the rallye hood. A flat hood would not clear if using the RPM air gap intake.

First time turning the key and engine won't start. I spend the next two weeks checking wiring, voltages and distributor timing. I even added a separate mounting post for the power directly connected to the battery instead of off the starter relay. In doing so I managed to broke the relay and the positive battery cable. Both were old and the internal of the relay short circuited so I had to get new ones. Everything checked out good after but still no start. I was starting thinking if I shorted the CPU but I got readings plus I can read write from the handheld. So today I tried again and engine wants to start but can't quite make it. I then open the throttle with the gas pedal like treating a flooded carb and the engine came to life. I had to keep applying the pedal or the engine will die. Checking the handheld and the IAC was way up in the 165 range and the IAC intake port was really sucking air. I then play with the TPS screws a few times and the IAC is now between 3-7 when warm, which is what Fitech say it should be. Engine can now start without the gas pedal. Lots of tuning and checking and tidy up ahead. Today was raining really hard so I did not take the car out. I just play with the engine throttle in the garage and stink up the house again. Actually the Fitech is less smelly than the carb and I think some more tuning and drivng will get it better. There is only so much you can do with a long duration cam. Here a few pictures.

Thanks for the update and I hope you can finish this one up soon so you can enjoy it this spring and summer, we all know it's been a long journey brother.   :bradsthumb:

Thanks Neal. I am looking forward to get on the road. I need to put miles to loosen up the drive line and be prepared for the road trip with Mike and others.

I opened up my old relay and one tab was sheared off and the whole thing was rotated. It touched the relay housing that is grounded to the car. So do not ever over tighten the bolt for the positive battery cable.

Today is a beautiful day and I put another 30 miles on the car. 22 miles of city street and about 8 miles on the freeway. Yes I took her out on the freeway as I don't want to do it in April. I am still having nightmare about April. Car drove great but lots of rattling. My CRT 727 has the Transgo TF2 shift kit, 1st to 2nd at about 20-25 mph and definitely not a soft shift. Car will not upshift to 3rd below 40 mph. When car gets to 45 mph and if I ease off the gas a little, it will upshift to 3rd gear. It will stay in 3rd until I slow to under 30 mph. It seems to upshift to 3rd on its own if I get pass 45 to around 50 mph. I will play with the kickdown cable to see if I can have it shift sooner.


Car ran great on the freeway, about 3000 RPM at 70 mph (based on my Garmin GPS). I tried accelerating from 50 to about 80 mph and it happened so quickly that I was surprised when I looked at the GPS. I did this with only half pedal and loved every second of it. It felt so raw, loud and acceleration is so immediate. I had to tell myself to ease off and take it easy. Need to give it some time for the engine and driveline to break in. It definitely felt different from the new Challenger. I can't wait to try full throttle acceleration.


I need to look into fixing or minimize some of the rattling. Fuel gauge is way off, about 5 gallons of gas from full to half full. Brake light is still on. I will try to bleed the brakes more. My rebuilt power steering pump is making noise and it has a slow leak. I need to fix this as the pump powers my hydroboost brake system. I think I will check out the pump that Bergman Autocraft carries that is designed for the Borgeson box. It is kind of expensive though.

Finished installing the MSD 6AL yesterday. I was hoping it will help to get a more complete burn of the fuel mixture to minimize the exhaust fume. That only helped a little in that regard but the engine idle and exhaust tone seems to be much more smooth than before. Engine also responds better when pressing the throttle. I will need to order the MSD mounting bracket and see if I can mounted it one the fire wall. The bracket I made myself mounting on top of the heater valve is vibrating too much.

After a 20 miles drive, I lighted up the tires at the stop sign off the freeway exit, only my car was at the intersection, no cops and I say time to give it a try. Car left behind at least 10 feet long of rubber. I think I was may be at half throttle, LSD working like it supposed to. Rear end was starting to get loose after the intersection so I let it off. This is the first time with this car since I got it. Very happy.  :stayinlane: :banana: Next week I will change the engine oil with about 300 miles or so on the engine. The oil catch can is working and I drained off a few teaspoons of oil collected.

I wish I could spin my tires that easy.  So excited for you.  Finally get to enjoy some fruit of your labor.   :bradsthumb:

Thanks Neil. Take the plunge and call Brian to build you a 408. A stroker really wakes up the car and easy to get the car moving from a stop. May be ask him to use a slightly smaller cam than the one I have.

Good to see you having fun with the Chall  :burnout:

I finished all the household chores late in the afternoon and found a moment to take the car out. After some local miles, I hopped on the freeway and headed toward the coast through the mountains. The car handles extremely well through the tight turns up and down the hills and I am exceptionally delighted. Steering could be faster but turn in and out is immediate and no hunting center. No body lean through the corners and the shock absorbs the road very well keeping the car planted. A newer Chevy mid size SUV behind me was trying to catch up but he had no chance. I have way more power going uphill and way better handling going down hill. The handling is definitely comparable to my SRT8 that has independent front and rear suspension (but it weights 4400 lbs). Not bad for a 40+ years old muscle. :banana:

Yes: IMHO, they drive quite nice with minor tweaks and correct assembly.

My car had been running great the whole summer. Even made a 200 miles round trip to attend a Mopar gathering at the track. I was out driving again yesterday enjoying the car before the raining season. On my way home going about 25 mph, the engine suddenly quit on me and then a loud backfire. Car would not start again. Fifteen minutes later while I was trying to figure out what is wrong, cop came by asking if I called the tow truck and saying if you don't call, he will call one for me. So after 3 hours of wait, car was back in the garage. Very please with Hagerty with the flat bed two truck. But I rather not have to use it.


This morning I started checking the fuses an all were good. Pop the hood and start checking the wiring and turns out to be burned off connector at the coil positive post. I could had fixed this on the side of the road but I did blocked about a 1/4 of the only lane on a two way street. This time I am using a ring connector instead of the male/female type from MSD and check it regularly. I think this slip on type connector is just bad news. There must be spark jumping between the connection. I am going to change out the negative post as well next week.

Yes the actual contact points on those can be minuscule.
Glad overall issue is minor.
Mike.

Just an update on my car. I must have put about three to four thousand miles on the car since the last post taking her out for short drive most weekends. Lately the steering of my Borgeson steering box developed some on center movement but no leaks. After jacking up the car I found all three bolts to the K member are back off a few threads. Those are tough to get a torque wrench on. After tightening them back, the steering is now tight and firm again, no play. Will keep an eye on them and might need to pull them and add thread locker. Need to order another neutral safety switch since the one on the car has a slow leak. I might had over tighten it and cracked the black plastic. Probably wait until I need to change the trans oil.

Went to a local cruise yesterday evening. Stop and go traffic for an hour or so with low 70s outside. Engine temp was 185 and steady. Venting the engine compartment really help. It used to get around 210.